I built another pair of my Stonehenge series, now "Stonehenge 4" (see also https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/system-pictures-description.23208/post-5093606)
Loudspeaker boxes made from cheap to purchase or leftover material, with a granite finish.
(Height: 100cm.
Woofer: Dynavox DY166-9A 8Ohm, each 2pc parallel. Got them for around 9€/pc.
Midrange and 25mm dome tweeter removed somewhere, no brand.
Midrange: 100mm diameter with quite large magnet, paper cone, soft rubber surround, fr=75Hz.
Crossover roughly calculated and then tuned by ear, always in direct comparison with reference loudspeakers.)
Loudspeaker boxes made from cheap to purchase or leftover material, with a granite finish.
(Height: 100cm.
Woofer: Dynavox DY166-9A 8Ohm, each 2pc parallel. Got them for around 9€/pc.
Midrange and 25mm dome tweeter removed somewhere, no brand.
Midrange: 100mm diameter with quite large magnet, paper cone, soft rubber surround, fr=75Hz.
Crossover roughly calculated and then tuned by ear, always in direct comparison with reference loudspeakers.)
Beautiful builds.i just revisited a couple of older cabinet pairs using Dynavox 6 1/2" + Seas 1 inch domes, and the same Dynavox +MarkAudio 7P in smaller cabinets for a surround system, now that I'm shamefully back in surround.
I guess I over analysed the crossovers before; stripping them and using all first order in the 0.25ft3 for rears, and a first order filtered woofer and second order filtered tweeter works far better than the much more complex crossovers I used before.
Horrifically, I also use a receiver with a built in parametric equalizer to tweak the fronts for just a little BSC at line level.
These Dynavox are tons of fun. I'm not familiar with the company's history- was anyone there a member of the Dynaudio company before, based solely on the looks of this driver?
I guess I over analysed the crossovers before; stripping them and using all first order in the 0.25ft3 for rears, and a first order filtered woofer and second order filtered tweeter works far better than the much more complex crossovers I used before.
Horrifically, I also use a receiver with a built in parametric equalizer to tweak the fronts for just a little BSC at line level.
These Dynavox are tons of fun. I'm not familiar with the company's history- was anyone there a member of the Dynaudio company before, based solely on the looks of this driver?
I've attached photos of my speakers. They are horn type loudspeaker inspired by the Usher D2, Zingali loudspeakers, and the JBL K2 project (which became the JBL M9500).
When I built these, the Usher D2 used TAD TD-4001 compression drivers behind their wooden horns. HOWEVER, the latest Usher version, the D3, uses what they call "US-375" drivers. Anyone know the specs on these? Who is the manufacturer? Perhaps somehow related to the original JBL 375 drivers?
The TD-4001 is a tough act to follow, and Usher has not lowered their price on the D3.
Comments, anyone?
When I built these, the Usher D2 used TAD TD-4001 compression drivers behind their wooden horns. HOWEVER, the latest Usher version, the D3, uses what they call "US-375" drivers. Anyone know the specs on these? Who is the manufacturer? Perhaps somehow related to the original JBL 375 drivers?
The TD-4001 is a tough act to follow, and Usher has not lowered their price on the D3.
Comments, anyone?
Attachments
Wow id love to see pictures from the build process, especially the horn and ports.
While I use some MarkAudio 12P in a single open baffle for surround channels, I couldn't get a timbre match with other full ranges I have already, and wound up making a three way folded open baffle foe a centre speaker. The TV stand itself acts as a folded open baffle for it.
Naturally, if I'd gone ahead and soldered the crossover, I'd be wanting to make changes. Since I made it easy to change parts, I'm instead happy with the results.
Naturally, if I'd gone ahead and soldered the crossover, I'd be wanting to make changes. Since I made it easy to change parts, I'm instead happy with the results.
Attachments
I've been trying for years to smile happy with smaller speakers than the 8ft3 Onken style pair I loved before.
The smallest I've been able to get to is some 2 foot tall folded open baffles.
I love the looks and design of the Econowaves.
There's just a way large and mid sized speakers and cones move air dynamically I like better than a classic small speaker.
Looks like a great system.
The smallest I've been able to get to is some 2 foot tall folded open baffles.
I love the looks and design of the Econowaves.
There's just a way large and mid sized speakers and cones move air dynamically I like better than a classic small speaker.
Looks like a great system.
Novice builder ... enjoying the DIY journey learning about drivers, horns, measurements, etc. from reading on forums like this one.
Current system, active 4 way controlled using VTC DLMS4080 (rebadged Xilica XP4080).
Highs = RCF ND350 on Community SRH90 horn - 4000Hz & Up
High/Mids = Community M200 on Community BRH90 horn - 600Hz to 4000Hz
Low/Mids = JBL 2206H - 75Hz to 600Hz
Subs = VBSS/Dayton PA460-8 - 75Hz & Down
Current system, active 4 way controlled using VTC DLMS4080 (rebadged Xilica XP4080).
Highs = RCF ND350 on Community SRH90 horn - 4000Hz & Up
High/Mids = Community M200 on Community BRH90 horn - 600Hz to 4000Hz
Low/Mids = JBL 2206H - 75Hz to 600Hz
Subs = VBSS/Dayton PA460-8 - 75Hz & Down
What’s the driver used in the transmission line in the center, is that a subwoofer? 😉
The sett up looks better with TV, i drive the speakers with 2 Aiyima a07 amp's and 2 PSU of 48V / 10 A (sub) and 26V / 10A tower speakers with a electronic crossover from Boss BX55. Works very well and cross at 40Hz 12 dB, would prefer even lower 30 / 35 Hz. So you can see how handy the sub coffin on wheel is as a TV support.
The unit in the center is a wooden horn, inspired by the wooden horns used in Zingali loudspeakers. The compression driver attached to its back is a B&C DE500 (Italian). The assembly acts as a horn tweater, handling frequencies from 1kH on up. There is no subwoofer in the system. The two 15" woofers( in tuned ported cabinets) do a pretty good job with low bass.
Linear
Sorry! There are no photos of the build process. I worked on them for almost 2 years. The ports and horns were turned from poplar wood on a $200 Harbor Freight Tools lathe! Cheap lathes only have a maximum working diameter of about 14", so I had to increase the diameter to 15" using aluminum channel "shims". It was very "touch and go" to get it all to work, but it turned out OK in the end.
Linear
Thanks for the background on the tweeter. I hope to make some in the future, unfortunately my shop has no windows right now and my garage is full of cars (crazy right?). Anyway I was joking about the stove. 😁
Back to single driver folded open baffles, augmented with a push pull H Frame bass panel. Instead of using a notch filter or eq, I'm shorting out much of the midrange bump with a small opening in the satellite baffles, behind some 1/2" acoustic foam meant to absorb some treble reflections.
I also use a first order line level highpass to my power amp, just about where the full range drivers are flapping around without much bass output, with test tones about 90 hertz where they're placed in my room.
I also use a first order line level highpass to my power amp, just about where the full range drivers are flapping around without much bass output, with test tones about 90 hertz where they're placed in my room.
Attachments
I found this video by accident and used it as speaker test sound for them.
That sounds real and even feels real in the chest and feet and the speaker chassis withstand it even under full load resp. real volume, so I am satisfied.
(don't take it too serious)
Rebuild of a speaker that I had build a few years ago. The cabinet was somewhat over-designed and I have now reverted back to a more traditional shape. Drivers are SB-Acoustics SB15MFC30-8 and SB26ADC-C000-4. BR port sits in the bottom. Todo: make the fronts and sometime later this year a passive x-over.
