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#11 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: London
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On a slim OB, if single 8" starts rolling off at 400Hz, two 8" will start rolling of at 400Hz too. So what is the point?
If you want to cross lover, you either need a bigger baffle or active EQ. MTM is hard to implement and expensive too. If you pick a high eff mid, you can do with just one per channel. In a closed box, single Supravox or PHL 6" should match fine with your tweeter. |
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#12 | ||
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Italy
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Quote:
From my old sims, rolloff was around 350hz, so you are spot on with 400hz for a narrower baffle (25-30cm). But probably I wont go OB this time. If you know higher efficiency mids, with a NON-rising FR please list them. PHL maybe, but if i don't see at least the FR, I wont pick one, since they declare only 5-6khz as upper range, which translates in 3k max 1st order filter. PHL drivers do have one advantage, though: they exist in 16Ohm version. Quote:
![]() I have to study about baffle step and whether one or two drivers are better (to my ears). I'll wait a few weeks for more suggestions.
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"The total harmonic distortion is not a measure of the degree of distastefulness to the listener and it is recommended that its use should be discontinued." D. Masa, 1938 |
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#13 |
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just another
diyAudio Moderator
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when looking at the baffle step, plan for a 3-4db reduction in overall efficiency, so to reach your target of 95db efficiency you need 98-99db to start with for the drivers covering the baffle step region (ie your midbass drivers!) If you crossover at your baffle step frequency to your bass drivers you can then level match for the bass. To get a baffle step frequency of 200Hz you are going to need a wide baffle!
The other way to look at it is that all drivers must be 98-99db efficient and you do line level baffle step compensation. This though ups the ante for ALL of the drivers efficiency wise Depending on the placement of the speakers you may need more or less baffle step compensation, but 3-4db is a good ballpark figure to plan on. Tony. |
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#14 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Kristinehamn
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#15 | ||
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Italy
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Quote:
So I definitely need two 93dB midranges or a 98-99 one. Therefore PHL 6" which are 98-100db gets back on frontline, but I need to find one driver from their production with satisfactory FR in my used range. There is also the PHY-HP H21 LB 15 (added to the first post), which is 8" and most suited in OB (0.59 Qts), anyway I'm pretty sure is well over 300€ price, and for OB I fond the need for more cone are = two of them => out of budget. Quote:
If i wanted to go all passive, bass response would terminate at 35hz in the best case unless i use some 15" pro driver and still it wont go as low as the scanspeak (or a peerless). I dont want to equalize but maybe a little has to be done either at the bottom or the top of the midrange freq window. I can accept a 250hz XO, but not a 300hz this time. If basta! simulates normal baffle step, IIRC about 40cm are required for 250hz.
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"The total harmonic distortion is not a measure of the degree of distastefulness to the listener and it is recommended that its use should be discontinued." D. Masa, 1938 |
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#16 |
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diyAudio Member
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I second the recommendation for the FST. High efficiency, controlled upper breakup and will work down to 250-300 Hz with a steep xover. It's distortion profile also suits being crossed over high, which is incidentally what B&W designed it for. You will need a notch at 3.5kHz for the one peak/fly in the ointment, but all wider bandwidth/high efficiency drivers are going to require some response shaping if crossed high.
Note that first order electrical crossovers do not often give first order acoustic slopes. Lots of Dynaudio loudspeakers use first order acoustic slopes but often have very complex crossovers in order to achieve them.
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What the hell are you screamin' for? Every five minutes there's a bomb or somethin'! I'm leavin! bzzzz! Droggon Attack! |
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#17 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Toronto, ON, Canada
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10F/4424G00
Not extremely efficient, but smooth and extended.
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Building a 2.1 system out of a 3/4"x4'x8' sheet |
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#18 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Italy
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I correct myself, that would be 45cm, which is a little much for WAF, so probably I have to compensate.
I'll check the 2 drivers recommendations tomorrow. Thanks
__________________
"The total harmonic distortion is not a measure of the degree of distastefulness to the listener and it is recommended that its use should be discontinued." D. Masa, 1938 |
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#19 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Italy
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It's pretty good up to 4khz, but I cannot use 90db. I had checked all scan-speak catalogue as first thing since I'm mating their tweeter.
__________________
"The total harmonic distortion is not a measure of the degree of distastefulness to the listener and it is recommended that its use should be discontinued." D. Masa, 1938 |
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#20 | ||
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Italy
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Quote:
Efficiency data I have to extrapolate from the graph attached above, but it should be at least 97db for making this driver viable for me. I checked cost and I can't buy 2 per speaker. There are very few wideband that do not require equalization, such as Volt (too inefficient but otherwise perfect for the job) and the 7" EMS that I listed in the first post -it may beam but it's the only full range I know off that is naturally smooth. But it's lacking of spl in the low-end of my used range. Quote:
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"The total harmonic distortion is not a measure of the degree of distastefulness to the listener and it is recommended that its use should be discontinued." D. Masa, 1938 |
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