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Old 14th August 2012, 02:58 PM   #131
DrDyna is offline DrDyna  United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WaVeInFoRm View Post
I wanted to. But I was afraid my cheep router might mess things up. Too late now.

Because If i had not got them perfect which is hard with dulling router bits and my pin board router jig... I thought it best in the end to save time and trouble and keep it simple. The drivers also have a sight slant on the cassis. I also thought, if ever in say 5-10 years time i nee a replacement driver, it may be hard to get one to fit.

They still look good. And i dont think it will really afftect the sound to negitivaly.

cabinets dont vibrate thats a big+
Oh, yeah they look great. If your drivers are made with rounded basket edges then it's not necessary, but with square edged faceplates, especially tweeters, you will run into issues. Take a look here:

Zaph|Audio
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Old 14th August 2012, 03:24 PM   #132
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Originally Posted by DrDyna View Post
Oh, yeah they look great. If your drivers are made with rounded basket edges then it's not necessary, but with square edged faceplates, especially tweeters, you will run into issues. Take a look here:

Zaph|Audio

I did round over the inside of the mid range to give it more space......... Lets hope that pro along with many others allows me to get away with my surface mounted tweeter... In hind sight prehaps I should have tryed, but at the time I was feeling overwelmed abit, oh well always next time
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Old 14th August 2012, 10:13 PM   #133
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like so....
Click the image to open in full size.

and in case you wondering what the holes are for, they where origionaly intended for screws, then i decided to up the design with the ply. so they became cheif matchstick holes....

like so (see the box behind the one with the driver placed for a test

Click the image to open in full size.

You can also see the "depth" for the mid and tweeter are the same. so if them not being flush mounted is a concern, when i am more experianced i may be able to shape a faceplate that curves back to the sides in a elegant way. we shall see


Tomorrow I will sand the woofer cabinets, I was going to use 2-3 layers of clear wax, that should darken the wood and make it ritcher, if not, (i have a testrunning) i may try a stained wax, but this may be pointless as the grain of the ply wont stain well anyway

edit. u can only just see 2 matchsick dowles lf you look carefully.


also the tweeter holes where cut at 45degree angles with a chizle as i wanted the for screw cross shame alined verticaly, to match the hexagon on the mid....

Last edited by WaVeInFoRm; 14th August 2012 at 10:16 PM.
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Old 14th August 2012, 10:28 PM   #134
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**** It! one more pic... Unsanded and unstained at this point, you can clearly not see how my camera hides the imperfections and show the beauty of the wood...

Click the image to open in full size.

The ports where such a tight fit, I had to mallet them in,
I then sealed them inside the cabinet with no more nailys after testing the tuning was around 26hz. i also wrapped blue plasticy foam stuff around them heald snugly in place with 3 purple and 2 green elastic bands (incase the plastic pipe has a resonance or 2)

And i should shut up now, because i want to make a full write up detailing mty construction "secrets"


One thing to note, with the tuning of 26hz, the driver still doesnt lose controll untill about 20hz which is supprising and usefill, I managed to play "bass i love you" and was supprised that the woofer didnt flap about as much as most do with that "song"

from my testing a higher tuning would have been stupid with a 100l box

Last edited by WaVeInFoRm; 14th August 2012 at 10:40 PM.
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Old 14th August 2012, 10:49 PM   #135
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Originally Posted by system7 View Post
Mate, unless you're the biggest flippin' genius since Albert Einstein, I really can't see you pulling this off. Why reinvent the wheel?
Excuse me? So am a a genius yet? I guess a hearing test is needed before I can confirm your complement

I am hoping my new set up will be even more "in your face" (as you put it) than the previous one i showed you

Still each to his own....

And it isnt re ininventing the wheel, it is building my own personal wheel. I learn more this way. And my speakers will be 100% unique. If they sound like junk I will be honest about it, and seek further advice

Last edited by WaVeInFoRm; 14th August 2012 at 11:02 PM.
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Old 25th November 2012, 11:44 AM   #136
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I guess i should have posted some pictures of the finished article earlier. I just didn't bother as my thread didn't seem to gain much interest because i ignored loads of peoples advice and p****d them off..

but no matter, my speakers are finished (almost) and sounding

Here are 2 pictures, If you would like more info let me know and i will be happy to provide.

I did use the PMS crossover. with one slight modification, i changed the series tweeter resister to 4.7 ohms

These speakers are tight and punchy have good low bass response, a fairly decent volume handling, and a good full sound. vocals sound balanced which is the main test of a good speaker.



I am driving them with a LINN LK85 Amp, which is ample

sound is good enough to get completely dissolved/immersed in the music. which is the point of a high quality sound-system.

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.



I would like to thank

Dr Dyna and Inductor for helping me up to the end


and i "suppose" i should thank Troels Gravesen, for just so happening to have a pretty perfect crossover all ready designed for me...

Last edited by WaVeInFoRm; 25th November 2012 at 11:52 AM.
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Old 28th November 2012, 08:27 PM   #137
system7 is offline system7  United Kingdom
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Originally Posted by system7 View Post
Mate, unless you're the biggest flippin' genius since Albert Einstein, I really can't see you pulling this off. Why reinvent the wheel? Have you looked at Troels Gravesen's SEAS page?
DIY Loudspeaker Projects Troels Gravesen

Check out the 3 way classic and the Poor Man's Strad (which uses your MCA15RCY 5" midrange). He doesn't pick the 10" CA26RFX bass, but plenty of SEAS 27TDC designs there which you could adapt.
Excuse me, WaVeInFoRm, but "FRANKLY" I get tired of being misquoted. I merely pointed out that you were a blind man walking around without a stick unless you found a decent crossover design.

Click the image to open in full size.

I would say a BIG THANKYOU to Troels Gravesen for getting you something decent.
Poor Man'

Click the image to open in full size.

Maybe a second order tweeter filter and a Zobel (7.5R + 1uF) might sound better, I don't know...

But FANTASTIC work! You are to be congratulated. Could it have been prettier? Should you add a vent to the midrange? Beech battens and damping panels and polyester foam wadding a la Harbeth? Bit boomy in a small room? All these things make you wonder. Very well done. Thanks for sharing. I was always on your side.
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