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Multi-Way Conventional loudspeakers with crossovers

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Old 1st February 2012, 04:59 PM   #201
Kahooli is offline Kahooli  Abu Dhabi
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I just received my 60 Aurasound NS3-194-16A 3" from Madisound today.

Upon inspection they look like nifty drivers, but have raised a question.

My box of 50, plus a second box of 10 loose ones, have both a mixed bag of similar looking drivers. ALmost half/half.

First driver: terminal has a red stamped "A" like character. cone/former junction has a yellow colored glue on it. Motor tagged: AS3-75-16FR

Second Driver: terminal has no inking. cone/former junction has a black glue on it, and appears to not be as tall as the other driver. motor marked the same.
two drivers have slightly different colored motor metal.

Is this correct? does this line up with every one else's experience?
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Old 3rd February 2012, 04:45 PM   #202
koldby is offline koldby  Denmark
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Kaholi
All of my NS3 is as the first you describe, except I canot find any yellow glue..?
But they are all the same.

SOOO!

My ALU e closures has come back from the machine shop and been anodizised.
These are for the vifa drivers and will NOT fill teh bill of beeing "stupid cheap"! Not at all.
Aluminium working, espascially when prototypng, is very expensive..

Here are some pictures.
They should be self explainable, but ask away if in doubt.

Koldby
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Old 3rd February 2012, 05:24 PM   #203
wesayso is offline wesayso  Netherlands
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That looks great! Very slick! Hope it sounds as it looks.
are you going to divide that airspace into smaller compartments?
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Old 3rd February 2012, 05:26 PM   #204
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Koldbe

Wowwee! No, aluminum large enough for that baffle must have cost a fortune. I have a few rounds and flat plates of 6061 and they weren't cheap at all. Gorgeous enclosure and fitment though. What driver edge treatment did you use and why?

Thanks,
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Old 3rd February 2012, 05:30 PM   #205
18Hurts is offline 18Hurts  United States
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Wow!

Very nice anodized aluminum enclosures! I've been messing with scrap wood to figure out how to cut bezels and learned my Roto Zip only goes down to 83mm holes and I need 76mm.

So I'm back to the hole saw and attempting to figure out how to bevel the holes to prevent diffraction. The weather has turned nasty so I have time to think this one out.

The CNC aluminum bezels would look great but might be a little out of my price range.
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Old 4th February 2012, 09:23 AM   #206
koldby is offline koldby  Denmark
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Wesayso:
Thanks. I cannot divide into smaller compartments, because the drivers has to be pushed in from top or buttom. I have mounted self adhesive damping aspahlt ( the kind you use in cars) on the inside side and back walls to dampen the resonances in the alu. And I plan to make a wood piece in the hole length , with holes in , a little larger than the inside width, so it will be in tension (not the right word) between the walls to further damp the sides.

gmcalabria:

Thanks. What do you mean by "driver edge treatment"?

18hurtz:

Why not use a router to make the bezel?
You can get special router bits for just that purpose.
That was what I used.
I even made the holes with the router, but the holesaw will be fine.

Koldby
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Old 4th February 2012, 09:39 AM   #207
wesayso is offline wesayso  Netherlands
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Can't wait to hear/read what it sounds like. I understand your problem with the kind of mounting you have. I do like it though, the drivers beeing mounted from the rear.
I think you allready had everything anodised. Otherwise I'd suggest beveling the inner mounting fixture as well to let the speakers breathe at the back side.
Did you use self damping asphalt? If you havent put it in yet consider using the butyl type damping materials. It is superior to the asphalt in more than one way.

Last edited by wesayso; 4th February 2012 at 09:43 AM.
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Old 4th February 2012, 01:31 PM   #208
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gmcalabria:

Thanks. What do you mean by "driver edge treatment"?

I mean, how do you figure out what curve or angle to route the holes in the baffle? What radius curve or what angle chamfer should be used?

Greg
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Old 4th February 2012, 03:53 PM   #209
18Hurts is offline 18Hurts  United States
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I'm building test boxes with 4 drivers each--that way I can measure how the frequency response changes from 4 to 8.

The 3 inch hole saw is a perfect cut and for the quicky test boxes, a 83mm C to C distance (3.25") provide plenty of strength for rear mounting.

For the main speakers, I'll use 1/2" plywood to make the bezel then laminate another piece of 1/2" ply over it for a 1" or 24mm bezel thickness. The narrow sealed box for the 3" is 1/2" ply so I just have to router out around 15mm of thickness at the front. My 3/8ths round over bit is too large to perform that function but if I mount it in the Roto Zip, I can lift it up to limit how far out it cuts. I'll find the right balance.

The weather has switched back to winter so no more wood working for another week or so, I'll play around with the test boxes while winter rages.
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Old 4th February 2012, 11:10 PM   #210
koldby is offline koldby  Denmark
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Wesayso:
You are right, the mountring plate ougth to have a bevel as well, but it is only 6 mm thick so it is not a big issue , I think.

Greg:
I only asked the alu- workshop to bevel the holes so there would be no sharp edges. The material is only 4 mm so there is no horn/waveguide function here.


18 Hurts:
Winter?
18 C below zero here between 4. and 5. feb.

Koldby
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