Hi guys,
I need some help with some DIY speakers I'd like to build.
I already have a shape design in my head and I found some links that explain how to build those cabinets. basially I plan to build fairly large curved floorstanding speakers. The speakers will be connected to a 15-20 Watt tube amp.
Here are the topics I could use some help with:
1)
Volume of space within the speaker: I was considering using 3 drivers; a bass driver of ca 10", a mid range range driver of ca 6", and a tweeter.
I was considering separating the space between the bass and the other two drivers. For bass reflex of the bass driver, I was thinking of keeping the bottom of the speaker open, is that a good idea, or do I better use a classic rear firing bass reflex port? The mid range and tweeter driver part will have their own rear firing bass reflex port.
Potentially, if I can find the right shape/object, I'd like to build the tweeter in the same style as the smaller 800 series of B&W.
With this in mind, how do I determine the space required for each section?
2)
Keeping in mind that I want to hook it up to a 15-20 Watt tube amp, can someone recommend the appropriate 3 drivers that would do the job, including schematics for crossovers for those drivers?
Alternatively, I found this website http://http://www.gui-sound.com/
where they have some fancy looking drivers. I may be able to obtain some through friends I have in Taiwan, so obtaining them should not be difficult.
However, I don't know anything about crossover design. How do I determine the crossovers for drivers? Would someone be willing to draw out some schematics for me if I state which drivers i want to use? I understood that crossovers do affect each other, so they probably should be designed for the specific speaker combination I want to use.
Any help in this field would be useful.
I guess the core of my question here is how to determine the circuit for speaker crossovers.
As I said, I don't mind using some tried and tested designs that would be acceptable for my application.
Thanks for your help!
PS I would consider using cpmbinations of existing speakers, eg Monitor Audio RS1 for mid range and tweeter, plus another speaker for bass, but I would imagine that the crossovers for bass and for mid range/tweeter would interfere with each other, is that correct? Or could I use that approach?
I need some help with some DIY speakers I'd like to build.
I already have a shape design in my head and I found some links that explain how to build those cabinets. basially I plan to build fairly large curved floorstanding speakers. The speakers will be connected to a 15-20 Watt tube amp.
Here are the topics I could use some help with:
1)
Volume of space within the speaker: I was considering using 3 drivers; a bass driver of ca 10", a mid range range driver of ca 6", and a tweeter.
I was considering separating the space between the bass and the other two drivers. For bass reflex of the bass driver, I was thinking of keeping the bottom of the speaker open, is that a good idea, or do I better use a classic rear firing bass reflex port? The mid range and tweeter driver part will have their own rear firing bass reflex port.
Potentially, if I can find the right shape/object, I'd like to build the tweeter in the same style as the smaller 800 series of B&W.
With this in mind, how do I determine the space required for each section?
2)
Keeping in mind that I want to hook it up to a 15-20 Watt tube amp, can someone recommend the appropriate 3 drivers that would do the job, including schematics for crossovers for those drivers?
Alternatively, I found this website http://http://www.gui-sound.com/
where they have some fancy looking drivers. I may be able to obtain some through friends I have in Taiwan, so obtaining them should not be difficult.
However, I don't know anything about crossover design. How do I determine the crossovers for drivers? Would someone be willing to draw out some schematics for me if I state which drivers i want to use? I understood that crossovers do affect each other, so they probably should be designed for the specific speaker combination I want to use.
Any help in this field would be useful.
I guess the core of my question here is how to determine the circuit for speaker crossovers.
As I said, I don't mind using some tried and tested designs that would be acceptable for my application.
Thanks for your help!
PS I would consider using cpmbinations of existing speakers, eg Monitor Audio RS1 for mid range and tweeter, plus another speaker for bass, but I would imagine that the crossovers for bass and for mid range/tweeter would interfere with each other, is that correct? Or could I use that approach?
Last edited:
Curved floor standing speakers? Can you elaborate, drawings?
+1 for the tried and tested design. Perhaps build a 2 way, simple mid & tweeter.
You can then if you want or need add a woofer to each in a separate cabinet like you want and power it with a plate amp which has changeable cut off points.
I choose to purchase a Behringer DCX2496 (on ebay for 110gbp) as everything is adjustable, you can tweak the crossover on the go, however does require many more amplifiers.
Good luck
+1 for the tried and tested design. Perhaps build a 2 way, simple mid & tweeter.
You can then if you want or need add a woofer to each in a separate cabinet like you want and power it with a plate amp which has changeable cut off points.
I choose to purchase a Behringer DCX2496 (on ebay for 110gbp) as everything is adjustable, you can tweak the crossover on the go, however does require many more amplifiers.
Good luck
I mainly listen to Jazz and Blues, sometimes a bit of Latin.
I also occasionally listen to Taiko (Japanese drums).
I too would prefer a proven design as I would guess it'd be easier to implement.
If I make the front detacheable somehow, with rubber seals of some sort to prevent any potential rattling, I could always replace the drivers and crossovers at a later stage.
Have a look at this threat for the curved speaker design:
DIY Speaker With Curved Sided Cabinet - Club Polk
Mine would be a little bigger, depending on what I do for a 3rd driver for bass.
I'm not so sure about a digital unit in a chain of low power analogue tube technology...
If someone could provide me with links or info on 2 or 3 way speak designs that have been proven in the past and are suitable for low power tube amplification, that would be great!
I also occasionally listen to Taiko (Japanese drums).
I too would prefer a proven design as I would guess it'd be easier to implement.
If I make the front detacheable somehow, with rubber seals of some sort to prevent any potential rattling, I could always replace the drivers and crossovers at a later stage.
Have a look at this threat for the curved speaker design:
DIY Speaker With Curved Sided Cabinet - Club Polk
Mine would be a little bigger, depending on what I do for a 3rd driver for bass.
I'm not so sure about a digital unit in a chain of low power analogue tube technology...
If someone could provide me with links or info on 2 or 3 way speak designs that have been proven in the past and are suitable for low power tube amplification, that would be great!
Well if you listen to Taiko, you WILL need bass, but from memory of my last live concert it isn't very deep bass so you will need the 10 inch, but to make the design easier try a 2.5 way speaker with a first order electrical roll-off on the bass driver with the biggest coil you can afford, I find that between 6mH and 8mh works fine on an 8R woofer.
Then just design a 2-way for the 6inch and tweeter.
Do you already have any drivers or components?
What is your budget, dollars/pounds become important and things add up very quickly.
Good rule of thumb I was given many years ago on stereo was 1/3 amp; 1/3 speakers; 1/3 room/ this can also be given for DIY speakers. 1/3 box; 1/3 drivers; 1/3 crossover
Regards
Ted
Then just design a 2-way for the 6inch and tweeter.
Do you already have any drivers or components?
What is your budget, dollars/pounds become important and things add up very quickly.
Good rule of thumb I was given many years ago on stereo was 1/3 amp; 1/3 speakers; 1/3 room/ this can also be given for DIY speakers. 1/3 box; 1/3 drivers; 1/3 crossover
Regards
Ted
Whoops
Absolutely right
my Mistake!!
That should have been 1/3 three times, source ( in those days TT or Reel to reel ) amp and speakers Later transposed to equal quarters to allow for the room.
But still good rule of thumb, most of us when starting out tend to forget or just don't know that the room dominates.
Absolutely right
my Mistake!!
That should have been 1/3 three times, source ( in those days TT or Reel to reel ) amp and speakers Later transposed to equal quarters to allow for the room.
But still good rule of thumb, most of us when starting out tend to forget or just don't know that the room dominates.
I'm living the room acoustic battle at the minute and it's hurting my head!
Good advice though!
Well, cant do much abou5 the room. The amp is a cheap Chinese tube unit. I expect to pay vs 200 to 300gbp on drivers. Box will be dot, so could be anything.
I guess. For bass I would need at least 2 drivers (one for bass, and a full range driver for the rest potentially) or 3 way if using conventional speaker build up.
I guess. For bass I would need at least 2 drivers (one for bass, and a full range driver for the rest potentially) or 3 way if using conventional speaker build up.
Well, cant do much abou5 the room. The amp is a cheap Chinese tube unit. I expect to pay vs 200 to 300gbp on drivers. Box will be dot, so could be anything.
I guess. For bass I would need at least 2 drivers (one for bass, and a full range driver for the rest potentially) or 3 way if using conventional speaker build up.
I guess. For bass I would need at least 2 drivers (one for bass, and a full range driver for the rest potentially) or 3 way if using conventional speaker build up.
OK, here is a thought:
If I were to use a similar design as to the link I provided before (curved speaker cabinet design), and leave the bottom open for bass reflex, would it be possible to use a full range driver and still obtain some bass imaging (for the taiko music)?
A driver I had my eye on, is attached to this post. It is about 91dB sensitivity and 20W input power, which should be adequate for my 20W tube amp.
The frequency range goes from about 37Hz to about 18kHz (anyway, read the specs...).
With this driver, I wonder if I should use a separate tweeter for high tones. If yes, could I use a very simple passive xover to handle the tone filtering? (I read somewhere something about using a single capacitor and a single resistor).
I assume I have to ensure that the cabinet's internal volume matches the Vas of the driver unit?
If I were to use a similar design as to the link I provided before (curved speaker cabinet design), and leave the bottom open for bass reflex, would it be possible to use a full range driver and still obtain some bass imaging (for the taiko music)?
A driver I had my eye on, is attached to this post. It is about 91dB sensitivity and 20W input power, which should be adequate for my 20W tube amp.
The frequency range goes from about 37Hz to about 18kHz (anyway, read the specs...).
With this driver, I wonder if I should use a separate tweeter for high tones. If yes, could I use a very simple passive xover to handle the tone filtering? (I read somewhere something about using a single capacitor and a single resistor).
I assume I have to ensure that the cabinet's internal volume matches the Vas of the driver unit?
For an idea of full range speakers, check out the very long thread:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full-range/65061-full-range-speaker-photo-gallery.html
I haven't seen many full range speakers with the driver just in a big box, most seem to be horn loaded, or use very carefully worked out enclosures.
I still recommend a 2.5way. Buy a good mid driver, Seas seem to make excellent ones, a tweeter to cover the top end in a box, with a woofer in a separate cabinet with its own high power amp.
Not the best example as there very expensive and made of machined aluminum, but similar in principle to YG Kipod
Stereophile: Rhymes with iPod
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full-range/65061-full-range-speaker-photo-gallery.html
I haven't seen many full range speakers with the driver just in a big box, most seem to be horn loaded, or use very carefully worked out enclosures.
I still recommend a 2.5way. Buy a good mid driver, Seas seem to make excellent ones, a tweeter to cover the top end in a box, with a woofer in a separate cabinet with its own high power amp.
Not the best example as there very expensive and made of machined aluminum, but similar in principle to YG Kipod
Stereophile: Rhymes with iPod
Honestly, the shape and size of the cabinet are not the ideal starting point for a project.
Start with the size and shape of the room and your music preferences (which is why people are asking you about those) and your budget.
Then look for a tried and tested design that matches those criteria (http://www.zaphaudio.com is a good place to start).
BTW, Parts Express has a line of pre-made cabinets that are very nice if you want to go that route.
Parts-Express.com: Dayton TWC-0.75CH 0.75 ft³ 2-Way Curved Cabinet Cherry | speaker cabinet empty speaker cabinet unloaded speaker unloaded cabinet .75 cubic foot curved enclosure
Start with the size and shape of the room and your music preferences (which is why people are asking you about those) and your budget.
Then look for a tried and tested design that matches those criteria (http://www.zaphaudio.com is a good place to start).
BTW, Parts Express has a line of pre-made cabinets that are very nice if you want to go that route.
Parts-Express.com: Dayton TWC-0.75CH 0.75 ft³ 2-Way Curved Cabinet Cherry | speaker cabinet empty speaker cabinet unloaded speaker unloaded cabinet .75 cubic foot curved enclosure
I wish it was simple to order parts to the UK from Parts Express, but with minimum order, overseas shipping and then added taxes, becomes expensive.
Ksporry, start here for UK kits and drivers:
https://www.wilmslow-audio.co.uk/catalog/index.php?osCsid=ac322d21c19487bafa9c6a8e2bef4076
and
IPL ACOUSTICS HIGH QUALITY SPEAKER KITS
Ksporry, start here for UK kits and drivers:
https://www.wilmslow-audio.co.uk/catalog/index.php?osCsid=ac322d21c19487bafa9c6a8e2bef4076
and
IPL ACOUSTICS HIGH QUALITY SPEAKER KITS
Ok,
Just a summary of what people have been asking:
music style: Jazz, Blues, Taiko, Latin
room size: about 12x12x8 ft (but in my next house that could become bigger, so i don't want to constrain myself to room size too much).
Speaker cabinet: I understand that simple box constructions that have been proven, take preference, but cosmetically I really do plan to make curved speaker cabinets. A possibility is to make the outer shell curved and make an internal box construction to match an existing design.
I don't mind going the 2.5 way, in which case I could separate the 2 way speaker with the sub, but make the units stackable so they can still be integrated in a single design. Indeed similar in principle to the YG Kipod design I guess!
I had a look at the Hi Vi driver site. It seems most drivers of 6" or more, are quite high power. My application is quite low power (20W/ch) meaning I need fairly high sensitivity drivers (>90dB).
Just a summary of what people have been asking:
music style: Jazz, Blues, Taiko, Latin
room size: about 12x12x8 ft (but in my next house that could become bigger, so i don't want to constrain myself to room size too much).
Speaker cabinet: I understand that simple box constructions that have been proven, take preference, but cosmetically I really do plan to make curved speaker cabinets. A possibility is to make the outer shell curved and make an internal box construction to match an existing design.
I don't mind going the 2.5 way, in which case I could separate the 2 way speaker with the sub, but make the units stackable so they can still be integrated in a single design. Indeed similar in principle to the YG Kipod design I guess!
I had a look at the Hi Vi driver site. It seems most drivers of 6" or more, are quite high power. My application is quite low power (20W/ch) meaning I need fairly high sensitivity drivers (>90dB).
Don't worry about the power handling, that is for maximum long term use, look instead at efficiency.
A driver that will output 84dB for 1 watt in needs a lot of power to sing, for tube amps you need a driver that will output about 90dB for a 1 watt input, if you find a driver that will give you 90dB AND take 100 watts that only means it has reserve capacity if you upgrade your amp in the future.
The problem is money, I find the drivers that are most effective at converting electricity to sound are usually the more expensive ones.
Experience tells me that a 2.5 way speaker will give you plenty of grunt for Taiko if you choose a large bass driver for the .5 woofer, the problem is power, bass drivers usually use a LOT of watts as the are relatively inefficient.
There are exceptions of course.
Perhaps you should start looking for some older Coral ( or similar ) 10 inch bass drivers, light paper cones smallish magnets.
Often found in old speakers from the late 70's, buy at garage sales and thrift shops until you find a set with the desired characteristics.
Take a look at other threads on curved boxes if that's what you want build them
A driver that will output 84dB for 1 watt in needs a lot of power to sing, for tube amps you need a driver that will output about 90dB for a 1 watt input, if you find a driver that will give you 90dB AND take 100 watts that only means it has reserve capacity if you upgrade your amp in the future.
The problem is money, I find the drivers that are most effective at converting electricity to sound are usually the more expensive ones.
Experience tells me that a 2.5 way speaker will give you plenty of grunt for Taiko if you choose a large bass driver for the .5 woofer, the problem is power, bass drivers usually use a LOT of watts as the are relatively inefficient.
There are exceptions of course.
Perhaps you should start looking for some older Coral ( or similar ) 10 inch bass drivers, light paper cones smallish magnets.
Often found in old speakers from the late 70's, buy at garage sales and thrift shops until you find a set with the desired characteristics.
Take a look at other threads on curved boxes if that's what you want build them
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