I know the search feature is my friend but couldn't find any of the information I needed via the search.
I am fairly clueless on diy audio, I have experience in car audio and home audio but never in anything as extensive as building my own amplifier.
I have removed one of the 12's from my truck and would like to make a home sub out of it. I mean if you can use an adire shirva in a car why not vise versa. its an xtant x1244 can be found at www.xtant.com
I've found posts on building a amps but there all like 100watts. this sub is 500watts rms and 2000peak I would like to find an amp that is able to puch the sub at around 500-600watts eithe 2ohm or eight ohm that won't break the bank looking to spend the least I can but still have a decent amp capable of excepting rca wires.
If someone has schematics for an amp in this power range I could try building one but I'm alittle sceptical of my skills I have built parts for cars with resistors and what not before so I can give it a try just afraid I'll spend 50-60bucks or more in parts and have an amp that doesn't work.
also I'm unsure of the differences in amps, being tube or others, and im not sure f this is in the right forum but all help is greatly appreciated.
I am fairly clueless on diy audio, I have experience in car audio and home audio but never in anything as extensive as building my own amplifier.
I have removed one of the 12's from my truck and would like to make a home sub out of it. I mean if you can use an adire shirva in a car why not vise versa. its an xtant x1244 can be found at www.xtant.com
I've found posts on building a amps but there all like 100watts. this sub is 500watts rms and 2000peak I would like to find an amp that is able to puch the sub at around 500-600watts eithe 2ohm or eight ohm that won't break the bank looking to spend the least I can but still have a decent amp capable of excepting rca wires.
If someone has schematics for an amp in this power range I could try building one but I'm alittle sceptical of my skills I have built parts for cars with resistors and what not before so I can give it a try just afraid I'll spend 50-60bucks or more in parts and have an amp that doesn't work.
also I'm unsure of the differences in amps, being tube or others, and im not sure f this is in the right forum but all help is greatly appreciated.
1) Don't fall into the trap of believing the car amp ratings too much.
2) 500 watts for $60 is pushing it. You can maybe build a 170W class D out of LM4651 & 4652 chips from the schematic in National's datasheet:
http://www.national.com/ds.cgi/LM/LM4651.pdf
2) 500 watts for $60 is pushing it. You can maybe build a 170W class D out of LM4651 & 4652 chips from the schematic in National's datasheet:
http://www.national.com/ds.cgi/LM/LM4651.pdf
conig said:
Power ratings are somewhat meaningless in most domestic situations, and being car audio specs they are no doubt exaggerated. The question is will it play as loud as i need with the power i have. You also have to keep in mind that a 500 watt amp only plays twice as loud as a 50 watt amp. Also the smaller an amp the better its chances of sounding good.
For 50 or 60 bucks you'll be hard pressed to build a gain clone if you buy all new parts -- and those max out at 50 W into 8 ohms.
dave
the hard facts:
1. good, clean power costs $$$$. Sometimes more if you do it yourself than if you had bought something.
2. If you're new to electronics and trying to build something that is high power, you are setting yourself up for an expensive failure.
That being said- there are IC options (mentioned above) such as the national class D chipsets, and the national BPA200 setup, but these can be very tricky as far as layout goes. If you don't have good test equipment, you are flying blind!
If you want to build it yourself for the accomplishment, then find a proven design, read everything you can get your hands on, ask lots of questions, and go for it! If you're looking to build to get more bang for the buck, you're better off finding a used PA amp to drive your subwoofer.
Steve
1. good, clean power costs $$$$. Sometimes more if you do it yourself than if you had bought something.
2. If you're new to electronics and trying to build something that is high power, you are setting yourself up for an expensive failure.
That being said- there are IC options (mentioned above) such as the national class D chipsets, and the national BPA200 setup, but these can be very tricky as far as layout goes. If you don't have good test equipment, you are flying blind!
If you want to build it yourself for the accomplishment, then find a proven design, read everything you can get your hands on, ask lots of questions, and go for it! If you're looking to build to get more bang for the buck, you're better off finding a used PA amp to drive your subwoofer.
Steve
and...
I take it your sub is a dual coil 4 ohm, which is why you have 2 or 8 ohms available? You might be surprised what 100 watts will do. Have you considered one of the plate amps that partsexpress or MCM sell? I am using one from PE- 250W into 4 ohms, and it was like $120! A lot of bang for the buck. It is driving 8 8" for my home theater, and really moves some air. A good easy way to go, as it includes the crossover. Very versatile.
Steve
I take it your sub is a dual coil 4 ohm, which is why you have 2 or 8 ohms available? You might be surprised what 100 watts will do. Have you considered one of the plate amps that partsexpress or MCM sell? I am using one from PE- 250W into 4 ohms, and it was like $120! A lot of bang for the buck. It is driving 8 8" for my home theater, and really moves some air. A good easy way to go, as it includes the crossover. Very versatile.
Steve
I 'didn't know I could use a PA amp. seen some of those for a good price, do they include a crossover?
if a 150 200watt amp will get me what I want thats what I will do. I would rather buy something then build it and besides a volt meter theres no other testing equipment I have.
apreciate the help any good links to were I could by an amp? they have some PA amps at radioshack are they junk? I would assume so but am unsure.
whats the difference between a tube and plate amp?
if a 150 200watt amp will get me what I want thats what I will do. I would rather buy something then build it and besides a volt meter theres no other testing equipment I have.
apreciate the help any good links to were I could by an amp? they have some PA amps at radioshack are they junk? I would assume so but am unsure.
whats the difference between a tube and plate amp?
http://www.radioshack.com/product.a..._name=CTLG_002_003_003_000&product_id=32-2004
how about something like this? or could I do better.
how about something like this? or could I do better.
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&PartNumber=300-793&DID=7
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/show...&St3=49176360&DS_ID=3&Product_ID=118153&DID=7
how about either of these? I think the second one is nicer as it appears to be a bit more powerful and I don't need the remote adjustment, as I plan on makeing the enclosure as a coffee table. but that might not be the best for imageing.
sorry for all the questions I'll post results when I finish.
I didn't know you could use a channel per coil but I guess if it's a mono signal it wouldn't matter. I'd like to be able to run at 4ohms if possible as I don't know if 8ohms will be enough.
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/show...&St3=49176360&DS_ID=3&Product_ID=118153&DID=7
how about either of these? I think the second one is nicer as it appears to be a bit more powerful and I don't need the remote adjustment, as I plan on makeing the enclosure as a coffee table. but that might not be the best for imageing.
sorry for all the questions I'll post results when I finish.
I didn't know you could use a channel per coil but I guess if it's a mono signal it wouldn't matter. I'd like to be able to run at 4ohms if possible as I don't know if 8ohms will be enough.
conig said:
Sorry, but the links didn't work for me.
You don't need to worry about how a sub images, because they don't. Anything below about 200Hz isn't directional, so you just put the sub wherever gives the best bass response. If your sub will handle the power with just using 1 coil, 4 ohms will make the amp put out more power, but it may be a wash due to the fact that the sensitivity will likely go down by only using 1 coil.
I hope that we're helping you here.
Steve
This is what I meant by a plate amp (called that because it is built on a metal plate,meant to mount in an enclosure.) It is the one I am using, available at partsexpress for $128.00
<IMG SRC="http://www.partsexpress.com/images/300-794m.jpg">
* High power Class AB amplifier
* Variable phase adjustment
* Rumble Filter
* Gold plated connectors
* High pass filter for satellite speakers
* Auto On/Off
This high performance amplifier has all the power and advanced features that you have been looking for! The adjustable phase control provides flexibility in subwoofer room placement. It allows the user to "shift" the phase and fine tune the subwoofers output to their particular room environment. Until now, this feature was only found on high-end subwoofer systems costing thousands of dollars! A built-in rumble filter reduces power robbing subsonic frequencies to protect the woofer and increase amplifier headroom. The high power class AB design, produces clean, earth shaking bass, especially when mated with our 10" or 12" Titanic subwoofers. The amp features gold plated high and low level inputs, continuously variable phase from 0ø to 180ø, level control, auto on/off (activated by input signal), and a second order (12dB) electronic low pass filter that is continuously variable from 40 to 160 Hz. It also features a 6dB high pass filter (125 Hz @ 8 ohm) output for satellite speakers and a line level output with a built in electronic high-pass filter. This amp has thermal overload, and fuse protection for years of reliable use. Both, right and left stereo inputs are summed to a mono output, so only one amp is required per system. The pre-amp board is completely sealed with high-density foam to help eliminate air leaks around the inputs and controls. The mounting plate also features a high-density foam gasket for easy air-tight installations. Measured power output: 180 watts RMS into 8 ohms @ .1% THD, 272 watts into 4 ohms @ 0.2% THD. Signal to noise ratio: 101dB (A-weighted). Dimensions: 10-3/8" W x 10-7/16" H x 3-1/4" D. Enclosure cut out: 9" W x 9-1/4" H. Voltage: Selectable, 115/230V, 50-60 Hz, 450W. Net weight: 12 lbs.http://www.partsexpress.com/pdf/300-794.pdf
<IMG SRC="http://www.partsexpress.com/images/300-794m.jpg">
* High power Class AB amplifier
* Variable phase adjustment
* Rumble Filter
* Gold plated connectors
* High pass filter for satellite speakers
* Auto On/Off
This high performance amplifier has all the power and advanced features that you have been looking for! The adjustable phase control provides flexibility in subwoofer room placement. It allows the user to "shift" the phase and fine tune the subwoofers output to their particular room environment. Until now, this feature was only found on high-end subwoofer systems costing thousands of dollars! A built-in rumble filter reduces power robbing subsonic frequencies to protect the woofer and increase amplifier headroom. The high power class AB design, produces clean, earth shaking bass, especially when mated with our 10" or 12" Titanic subwoofers. The amp features gold plated high and low level inputs, continuously variable phase from 0ø to 180ø, level control, auto on/off (activated by input signal), and a second order (12dB) electronic low pass filter that is continuously variable from 40 to 160 Hz. It also features a 6dB high pass filter (125 Hz @ 8 ohm) output for satellite speakers and a line level output with a built in electronic high-pass filter. This amp has thermal overload, and fuse protection for years of reliable use. Both, right and left stereo inputs are summed to a mono output, so only one amp is required per system. The pre-amp board is completely sealed with high-density foam to help eliminate air leaks around the inputs and controls. The mounting plate also features a high-density foam gasket for easy air-tight installations. Measured power output: 180 watts RMS into 8 ohms @ .1% THD, 272 watts into 4 ohms @ 0.2% THD. Signal to noise ratio: 101dB (A-weighted). Dimensions: 10-3/8" W x 10-7/16" H x 3-1/4" D. Enclosure cut out: 9" W x 9-1/4" H. Voltage: Selectable, 115/230V, 50-60 Hz, 450W. Net weight: 12 lbs.http://www.partsexpress.com/pdf/300-794.pdf
Thats one of the amps I tried to post a link to lol.
to all that have replied, thanks for the help this has been very informative. and this is a great forum, most forums now adays are full of flames and misleading information, I pretty much have my mind made up on the plate amp above unless I find something to thats two ohms.
Is there any way to change the impedence of a speaker? useing a resistor or something?
also I guess im new enough to home audio if anything under 220hz is non directional. in car audio imageing of mid bass speakers has alot to do with sound. I guess in a more open space it's not the same.
I plan on useing a slot port tuned at around 28hz and am trying to decide between downward fireing or slot loaded.
to all that have replied, thanks for the help this has been very informative. and this is a great forum, most forums now adays are full of flames and misleading information, I pretty much have my mind made up on the plate amp above unless I find something to thats two ohms.
Is there any way to change the impedence of a speaker? useing a resistor or something?
also I guess im new enough to home audio if anything under 220hz is non directional. in car audio imageing of mid bass speakers has alot to do with sound. I guess in a more open space it's not the same.
I plan on useing a slot port tuned at around 28hz and am trying to decide between downward fireing or slot loaded.
planet10- 20watts per coil for a shiva! lol
what about the guy who made the *almighty subwoofer* (jbl 2226h) he uses 20watts and gets 110db or so,,and i plan on 150watt rms for mine..
mmm headroom! can never have enough.
Class D amps!
it would have to be a kit,
im not game enough to design my own HAha..is their kits that use those ICs
i do like the Class D /g /h ideas..
do they sound any good!!!!
what about the guy who made the *almighty subwoofer* (jbl 2226h) he uses 20watts and gets 110db or so,,and i plan on 150watt rms for mine..
mmm headroom! can never have enough.
Class D amps!
it would have to be a kit,im not game enough to design my own HAha..is their kits that use those ICs
i do like the Class D /g /h ideas..
do they sound any good!!!!
"I'd be wary of most pro amps"
It all depends on the brand and model.
If you go with a pro amp you will have more then enough power but you will need a crossover or if you know where you want them crossed over oyu could use a set of f-mods.
For about 300 you can get more then 500 wrms into bridged mono. IF you want a silent amp (no fan) and can live with lower power levels you can get a hafler amp for about $150-$200.
It all depends on the brand and model.
If you go with a pro amp you will have more then enough power but you will need a crossover or if you know where you want them crossed over oyu could use a set of f-mods.
For about 300 you can get more then 500 wrms into bridged mono. IF you want a silent amp (no fan) and can live with lower power levels you can get a hafler amp for about $150-$200.
Hi!
Why do most of you people always say that (all) car hifi products have exaggerated ratings / specs? That maybe true for the "bang for a buck" products, and the cheaper Class-D sub amps, but not for classy producs.
Just lately we hooked up a Monacor Raptor 12" (Raptor description ), a monster of a bass driver, in a BR enclosure, to a real good and strong PA amp (Camco Vortex 4, for those who know what that is... ), and even when pushed hard (and our ears were pushed hard, I can tell you that
), that sub did not totally reach it's limits... only after about 80% full volume the clipping began (in a very soft way), and we were not sure if the origin was the sub or the amp...)
So, please don't generalize so much about car hifi products... if you select carefully, you can get very good products, often better than home hifi for the same or less money...
Bye,
Arndt
Why do most of you people always say that (all) car hifi products have exaggerated ratings / specs? That maybe true for the "bang for a buck" products, and the cheaper Class-D sub amps, but not for classy producs.
Just lately we hooked up a Monacor Raptor 12" (Raptor description ), a monster of a bass driver, in a BR enclosure, to a real good and strong PA amp (Camco Vortex 4, for those who know what that is... ), and even when pushed hard (and our ears were pushed hard, I can tell you that
), that sub did not totally reach it's limits... only after about 80% full volume the clipping began (in a very soft way), and we were not sure if the origin was the sub or the amp...)So, please don't generalize so much about car hifi products... if you select carefully, you can get very good products, often better than home hifi for the same or less money...
Bye,
Arndt
http://www.apexjr.com/Apexsenior.htm
how about this amp? it will push 225watts at 8ohm. its 159.95 not too bad of a price. If I could get away with the amp for 100.00 thats 100 at 8ohms I'd try that but the amp I use in my truck is an alpine mrv 1507 and it bench tested at 780watts at 4ohms. 14.0volts of power and my sub is simply soaking it up.
how about this amp? it will push 225watts at 8ohm. its 159.95 not too bad of a price. If I could get away with the amp for 100.00 thats 100 at 8ohms I'd try that but the amp I use in my truck is an alpine mrv 1507 and it bench tested at 780watts at 4ohms. 14.0volts of power and my sub is simply soaking it up.
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