when tuned to 25hz,efficiency is only about 92db normalised ,cos tuned so low below Fs
but stil ok :-D
(im tuning to 30hz(200litres),and also 39hz in a test 100litre box
im going to have an eti 480 doing 65watts into 8ohm,and then il bridge it and get about 150watts.mmm headroom.check out solid state, a thread on an eti480 in there
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i suppose you can add the voice coils in series making it R1+R2
combined resistances are bigger
you can adda resistor into the second coil circuit,but that only changes Q.(one 4ohm load)
cos in parallel its 1/Rt= 1/R1 + 1/R2
=the combined resistances are smaller
or you can make your own amp that is 2ohm stable- what ohms do u need again/?
Car amps in the USA almost always have a rating that is peak rather than RMS. This means that their rating is not comparable to a home amp, which according to FCC rules must be rated for RMS power. In fact the difference between RMS and peak is a factor of 2. Both cheap and expensive car amps are usually rated this way.
Pro amps also frequently list power at very low impedance and/or peak power or bridged or both channels driven. Some people buy a pro 1500 watt amp for their Subs and think they are getting a 1500 Watt amp. They are actually getting an amp that would be rated at about 250Watts/channel at 8 ohms, (but one that would easily drive low impedance loads).
When looking at amp ratings you have to be aware of the conditions they are rated at. When comparing power and price and quality between Home, car and pro amps you are often comparing apples oranges and peaches....
Pro amps also frequently list power at very low impedance and/or peak power or bridged or both channels driven. Some people buy a pro 1500 watt amp for their Subs and think they are getting a 1500 Watt amp. They are actually getting an amp that would be rated at about 250Watts/channel at 8 ohms, (but one that would easily drive low impedance loads).
When looking at amp ratings you have to be aware of the conditions they are rated at. When comparing power and price and quality between Home, car and pro amps you are often comparing apples oranges and peaches....
Ron E I have found that your information is very inaccurate about car amps. The cheap ones do Post thier amps peak power level but anyone with half a brain knows to look at the specs of the amp and find the wrms power (which is also posted a lot of the time if you look). If you can't find wrms you then just divide by 2.
My problem is with the statement that even mid and high end car amps are rated at peakor over rated. This is just not true, infact a lot of the higher level companies UNDER rate their amps. Look at Zapco, cadence and arc audio.
Pro amps usualy list their power into 2,4 and 8 ohms. The only ones who do what you say are companies like pyle and pyramid.
My problem is with the statement that even mid and high end car amps are rated at peakor over rated. This is just not true, infact a lot of the higher level companies UNDER rate their amps. Look at Zapco, cadence and arc audio.
Pro amps usualy list their power into 2,4 and 8 ohms. The only ones who do what you say are companies like pyle and pyramid.
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