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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Grenoble, FR
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Hi all
I've downloaded mathcad explorer (12Mb with my 56K, ouch!) and Martin King's transmission line models But I don't know what to do with it. I entered the driver's characteristics, and the experimental dimentions of my project But how do I use it to tune my tranmission line dimentions? I look at the curves, but since I'm still a noob, I don't know what each curve mean And the way they sould look, after having optimaly set my parameters. Can someone help me? Thanks Alex |
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#2 | |
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diyAudio Moderator
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Quote:
dave
__________________
community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com ........ commercial site planet10-HiFi p10-hifi forum here at diyA |
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#3 |
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Account disabled at member's request
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Clifton Park, NY
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Dave's method is almost exactly what I do when iterating a design. The only other curve I watch closely is the acoustic impedance. The first large hump tells me at what frequency the enclosure is tuned. I try and keep this peak at or just below the driver resonance.
When I am designing, I start with a first guess (I recommend reading Bob Brines' site for a better understanding and some recommended first guesses) and then change one variable at a time. If the response improves, I keep the change and try a little more. I continue to iterate until I have a design that looks to be optimized and can't get much better. Then I start again and work in a new direction. After a few sessions, I have several designs that I have saved. Based on other requirements (size, impulse response, construction challenge, low frequency response, ripple, and so on) I select the design I want to build. After a while you get a feel for what will work and the excercise moves along much faster. No magic, |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Grenoble, FR
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Ok; so I must tune my params to obtain a ripple free system response, that extends to the frequency I want
For the phase, how must it look? What phase "response" is bad, which one is good? PS: what are the dotted blue line and the solid red line? According to which one do I tune my params? |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
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As far as I understand, the blue line is a reference line, reflecting how your driver would react in an infinite baffle system.
The two big deals, when I built mine with MJKs mathcad stuff, were the very first graph and one further down. As MJK says, the "resulting Acoustic Impedance..." hump is the tuning frequency you're aiming for. The second graph of utmost importance is the second graph under the heading "Far Field Transmission Line System and Infinite Baffle Sound Pressure Level Responses." That particular graph reflects your drivers' bass response. Once you have your driver specs entered, experiment with the length of the pipe and the amount of stuffing until you can smoothe out the ripples in the second one while maintaining the location of the "hump" in the first one where you want it. Of course, you also want to keep your pipe relatively long, too. It's a great program. Dave Shamelessly advertising my completed project: Spiral Shaped Transmission Line Enclosure Project Complete |
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#6 | |
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Account disabled at member's request
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Clifton Park, NY
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Quote:
Hope that helps, |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Grenoble, FR
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Thanks
![]() Martin, what are your starting points in a TL designing? I mean, after having picked up your driver's characteristics, how do you estimate the first value you enter for your TL lenght and area? Do you have a rule of thumb for this, and then you use your software to tune it perfectly, or do you arbitrary set tue line lenght (I don't think so )And the same question for the bass response you want (I mean, the frequency you set the f3). Do you use the driver's free air resonance frequency, and keep this value for the aimed f3 frequency, something higher, lower, totally independant? |
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#8 | |
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Account disabled at member's request
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Clifton Park, NY
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Quote:
For bass response I try and get as extended a bass response as possible allowing a 2 or 3 dB downward tilt below 100 Hz that will end up compensated for by room reinforcement. I try and minimize the ripple above 100 Hz. Recognize that in a real room you bass efficiency will be 3 - 6 dB below the value shown by the MathCad worksheet due to baffle step behavior. My advise is to just jump in and try different conbinations. The first design will take a while to work out as you get a feel for what direction a change in geometry will take the response. Be patient, come back a few times after thinking for a couple of hours or even days, and don't expect that things will magically fall in place after an hour or two of experimenting. Sometimes all of the TL designs look bad if a driver is not suited for this type of enclosure. I strongly recommend that you read Bob Brines' site (linked from mine) from start to finish to get a feel for what can be done. If you follow what he has done you will have a fairly decent understanding of what is possible and important in TL design. Hope that helps, |
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#9 | |
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diyAudio Member
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Quote:
For what it's worth, my first try with the MJK Mathcad worksheets took me about 25 hours over several days, but the results are to die for. Dave |
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#10 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Grenoble, FR
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Quote:
![]() I want to build a tapared ( 4:1) transmission line, folded once Do you see how the Thor are made? My project looks the same, but with only 1 midbass driver (+ 1 tweeter), other dimentions, and a 4:1 taper |
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