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THWO

Member
Joined 2008
I really love your idea with the door handles. Purism at its best...

I assume that the screws holding the lower part of the handles are not screwed in (visibly) from the front side of the baffle but through a second (rear) sheet of a double-layer front (to make the mounting invisible)? If so, how did you secure the screws from getting loose sometime? May be a bit specific question, but that´s what DIY is about, isn´t it?

Regards
Till
 
matevana

matevana

Member
Joined 2010
THWO said:
I really love your idea with the door handles. Purism at its best...

I assume that the screws holding the lower part of the handles are not screwed in (visibly) from the front side of the baffle but through a second (rear) sheet of a double-layer front (to make the mounting invisible)? If so, how did you secure the screws from getting loose sometime? May be a bit specific question, but that´s what DIY is about, isn´t it?

Regards
Till
Click to expand...

Good question. There is a 1" long 8-32 socket head cap screw which is recessed in the front of the baffle. The socket head is black and is flush with the surface of the baffle. Behind the baffle there is a gum-rubber washer (1/4" thick) as is one on the HF driver side. The rubber washers help isolate and are very effective. The screw length on the driver side is 1/2". The driver is effectively set back by the width of the panel, (about 3/4") which helps align the drivers acoustic centers. Baffle artifacts appear to be minimal and are somewhat effected by the relative position of the swing mount. I may put a small piece of felt on the top surface of the baffle, if there is enough reason to do so once measurements are evaluated.
 
Legis

Legis

Member
Joined 2009
Here's my current setup. Peerless midbasses, BMS 4550 compression driver in a XT1086 and BMS's ULD-series woofersAt the center of bass arrays there are closed boxes (for infras), the rest are U-frames. All woofers have their cones hardened with carbon fibre sheet and epoxy on the back side, and a thin layer of epoxy on the front. Also every woofer's chassis is damped with bitume.
 
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Elias

Elias

Member
Joined 2003
Thorens Soundwalls

from 70's


20090708_145659_Thorens-HP380.jpg


The reproduction of upper bass and midrange must be very good in a room from this kind of a speaker.

And they look quite nice to my eyes :D


- Elias
 
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gainphile

gainphile

Member
Joined 2007
gainphile.blogspot.com
070911Luminous-600.jpg


Quote:
The Surreal Sound Speaker ($10,000/pair) is the small, three-way floorstander finished in cherry, not the massive bass bin behind it, which belongs to the GOTO Horns speaker (see next story). Surreal Sound's Ralph Helmer is passionate about midrange, feeling it is in the midrange where the music truly lives. To that end, his speaker features a beryllium-disc midrange unit, mounted in an open baffle. A Heil Air Motion Transfomer supertweeter and three spider-less, aluminum-alloy, 10" cone drivers for the bass, all also mounted in open baffles, complete the drive-unit line-up.
 
S

sfdoddsy

Member
Joined 2002
doddsy.net
My new bedroom OBs

I've just finished my new bedroom speakers.

They couldn't be simpler as the integrated baffle and stand is just a piece of folded perspex.

I'm using a spare Seas W22 and 27TDFC, and an equally spare MiniDSP. SInce they basically the top half of my mains, the xover and EQ is very similar.

I know I should brace them (and eventually will) , but I like the minimalist aesthetic and they sound really good.
 

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jerome69

jerome69

Member
Joined 2008
Just for fun !
A H frame with two SLS10, I like this woofer because it is very lively.
The top is a tweeter pushpull (27TBC) with an old magnesium excel w21ex002. The dimension 1.02mx40cmx40cm. The height of the Hframe is 60cm.The sound is already very good. I am impressed by the Hframe and its low bass extension.
 
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