/sreten. [/B][/QUOTE]
Without proper measurements and not to forget listening, its really pointless to try being that precise about final values, theories and calculation may be usefull, "but not the final word" ... I believe in "learning by doing"
Some times in here, when people answer a question it is almost as if it would be a "matter of life and death" ... oh man, its really only a very small matter, its only a thing and really not THAT important whether it works one way or the other
If you dont want something premade, but want to design your own, and I do respect that, you will have to work very hard to make it work, noone in here can do it fore you and it certaninly wont be done "overnight", just like that, so if you are serious you will make many many changes over a very long period
Some times in here, when people answer a question it is almost as if it would be a "matter of life and death" ... oh man, its really only a very small matter, its only a thing and really not THAT important whether it works one way or the other
If you dont want something premade, but want to design your own, and I do respect that, you will have to work very hard to make it work, noone in here can do it fore you and it certaninly wont be done "overnight", just like that, so if you are serious you will make many many changes over a very long period
What are your design criterias, do you have certain demands fore a very small box in choosing isobaric
I know people who claims they had severe phase problems with isobaric
You could also choose combinated isobarik compound, but although it may give solid bass it wont deal completely with BSC issues, and also a much bigger design and one more driver
2.5way MMT seems the easy way to have some BSC and with much better sensitivity, but being more common you may feel it a bit boring
With a wide front baffle you may not need to worry so much about BSC
I know people who claims they had severe phase problems with isobaric
You could also choose combinated isobarik compound, but although it may give solid bass it wont deal completely with BSC issues, and also a much bigger design and one more driver
2.5way MMT seems the easy way to have some BSC and with much better sensitivity, but being more common you may feel it a bit boring
With a wide front baffle you may not need to worry so much about BSC
Hi,
Maybe the following may help to avoid confusion.
The sensitivity should always be expressed for a voltage (2.83 V is the norm) which is directly measured, whatever the nominal impedance of the driver. Il should never been expressed for a power, as too often seen, of 1 W, which supposes the nominal impedance of the speaker to be strictly 8 Ohm.
The efficiency (the ratio of acoutic power to electric power) should always been expressed in percentage and never in dB. It is either deduced from previous measurements of voltage and impedance, or calculated from the T&S parameters.
Speakers are voltages driven devices, their frequency responses are expressed for constant voltage. Happily, not for constant power.
The value of the sensitivity is more useful for the diyer than the value of the efficiency.
Maybe the following may help to avoid confusion.
The sensitivity should always be expressed for a voltage (2.83 V is the norm) which is directly measured, whatever the nominal impedance of the driver. Il should never been expressed for a power, as too often seen, of 1 W, which supposes the nominal impedance of the speaker to be strictly 8 Ohm.
The efficiency (the ratio of acoutic power to electric power) should always been expressed in percentage and never in dB. It is either deduced from previous measurements of voltage and impedance, or calculated from the T&S parameters.
Speakers are voltages driven devices, their frequency responses are expressed for constant voltage. Happily, not for constant power.
The value of the sensitivity is more useful for the diyer than the value of the efficiency.
TWOJZ when one of the most knowledgeable people on this board try to help you, you would do well to treat him to less condensation. If what Sreten says doesn't make sense I can guarantee it is YOU who is ignorant of the subject. More research and less "LOL"...
Anyway to simplify:
Two correlated drivers operating in phase (+3 dB), and in parallel (+3 dB) for a total of +6 dB gain for a given input voltage.
Two correlated drivers operating in phase (+3 dB), and in series (-3 dB) for a total of 0 dB gain for a given input voltage.
And if you don't understand that then Best Buy would be a better option for speakers.
Anyway to simplify:
Two correlated drivers operating in phase (+3 dB), and in parallel (+3 dB) for a total of +6 dB gain for a given input voltage.
Two correlated drivers operating in phase (+3 dB), and in series (-3 dB) for a total of 0 dB gain for a given input voltage.
And if you don't understand that then Best Buy would be a better option for speakers.
forr said:
I really wish manufacturers would do this too. If someone were comparing or modeling two different drivers simply inputing 2w for the 4 ohm driver to calculate teh relative output is just an approximation, since neither driver is precisely 8 ohm or 4 ohm. The only time it is probably pretty close is when you're comparing the exact same model of drivers, with one being an 8 ohm version and the other 4 ohm.
hi! tinitus
Why don't you go with me?
I don't understand that why they talk about attenuation too long. I ever used decibel meter and mearure it. It's quickly.Then i buy some resister to make a circuit. It's not a long time to finish. Or another method i buy L-Pad and adjust it. i fine tune for good point. i use meter to check ohm valve and put a resister to replace for it. It's not a long time to finish. Many speakers that i built in the past. I have many tools and a lot of programs to use. Anytime i build. i'm not have a problem. It's successful. I feel that they have many problems before it's not begin to build. tinitus! or someone to show me he is a technical man. I don't understand really. It's easy but he make it difficult.
Thanks
Thawach
Why don't you go with me?
I don't understand that why they talk about attenuation too long. I ever used decibel meter and mearure it. It's quickly.Then i buy some resister to make a circuit. It's not a long time to finish. Or another method i buy L-Pad and adjust it. i fine tune for good point. i use meter to check ohm valve and put a resister to replace for it. It's not a long time to finish. Many speakers that i built in the past. I have many tools and a lot of programs to use. Anytime i build. i'm not have a problem. It's successful. I feel that they have many problems before it's not begin to build. tinitus! or someone to show me he is a technical man. I don't understand really. It's easy but he make it difficult.
Thanks
Thawach
I dont know what to answer, and I really dont know what it is you want to know
I am not a friend of Sreten, my friends are here where I live, but the way you guys "talked" to him is totally out of order, if such was allowed on the forum it would very quickly become totally chaos
But it really seems like you are afraid to ask the questions, admitting that there is something you dont know off
Its hard to give you advice, when you pretend to know all there is to know
I have said earlier that isobarik may not be such a good idea with midrange involved
I said that it might be better to make it a 2.5way
You didnt respond to any of that, nor to the question of why isobaric ... so I dont know how I can help you
ask some proper questions, and you might get an answer ... but remember, "you may ask, but may not like the answer"
This is supposed to be a friendly place with gentleman behaviour, and I sure hope it stays that way ... there is enough war in the world as it is
I am not a friend of Sreten, my friends are here where I live, but the way you guys "talked" to him is totally out of order, if such was allowed on the forum it would very quickly become totally chaos
But it really seems like you are afraid to ask the questions, admitting that there is something you dont know off
Its hard to give you advice, when you pretend to know all there is to know
I have said earlier that isobarik may not be such a good idea with midrange involved
I said that it might be better to make it a 2.5way
You didnt respond to any of that, nor to the question of why isobaric ... so I dont know how I can help you
ask some proper questions, and you might get an answer ... but remember, "you may ask, but may not like the answer"
This is supposed to be a friendly place with gentleman behaviour, and I sure hope it stays that way ... there is enough war in the world as it is
tinitus said:You are quite funny, you really make me smile ... like when small children are naughty ... I made 51 recently and have had Hifi as a hobby since 12, so I guess I am getting to old fore this forum ... still laughing
the point is, I came on here, and asked how much attenuation the tweeter would need, and as a result, I got told not to use those woofers, that tweeter, or that design...
thats not actually being helpful...
I had someone telling me to put the two woofers in a 54 litre box... if I had 54 litres, why would I be doing isobaric?
I had someone linking me to another thread, which had nothing to do with isobaric setups.
none of this was helpful.
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