Fast, fun, Inexpensive OB project

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This design is an easy place to start, so yes, you can use two eights per speaker. Don't skimp on baffle size, you can't get quite as deep bass as the lower fs & larger area drivers, but you'll be close with 80% of the cone area and a slightly higher Q.

You would need a different filter on the bass, start with a zobel to give the 10mH a chance, you may still need a notch for the twin peaks between 2&3k.

The Tc9 is worth getting for ease of use, the ps95 is good, but a different beast than the Tc9, if you use it start with a clean sheet, John's filter is well tuned, and only needs level adjustments for most builds and rooms.
 
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The twin 8s will be a little short on displacement and high on Fs. Might work and the higher Qts could help, but the crossover will definitely need tweaking.
I'll take a look at the Zobel tomorrow, the design has never used one, and that helps shape the low pass.
 
You need one L-Pad per Vifa.

With a crossover this simple, I'd just get a few resistors and tweak values. But it L-Pads are quicker for you, then try them. It sounds like you want to attenuate the Vifa, so higher resistance values would be the first thing to try. You can also experiment with smaller cap values to move up the Vifa cross point, and also try different resistor values on the shelf filter to tilt the Vifa up or down.
Ok, I can start with an Lpad to get the right attenuation for my room. So what do you mean with changing the resistor to tilt the Vifa? What does the shelf filter add?
The coreect level for my room will be a great to start with and perhaps the only thing to fix...
 
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What does the shelf filter add?
The shelf filter actually takes away. :) The Vifa has a rising response that needs to be flattened. If you have a look at the crossover here:
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/fast-fun-inexpensive-ob-project.110583/post-6507952
You will see a cap a coil and a resistor in series with the Vifa. The coil flattens the rising response of the Vifa. The resistor R2 that is in parallel with the coil sets how much the response if flattened. Higher values of the resistance push down the top end more. Lower values allow more rise. You can adjust the tonality of the Vifa simply using R2. Lower value of R2=brighter, Higher value of R2=duller.
 
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From the crossover post:
Capacitor C1 is the high pass filter for the Vifa. R1 is attenuation for the Vifa, while R2 and L2 shape the top end response of the Vifa. Tune the value of R1 to raise or lower the overall output of the Vifa (mids and highs) and tune R2 to change just the levels of the Vifa highs. The tweaking/tuning range of R1 is usually 2:1 centered around the nominal value. R2 tuning range is the same 2:1 ratio around the nominal value. 5-10 watts is enough for these resistors.
 
The shelf filter actually takes away. :) The Vifa has a rising response that needs to be flattened. If you have a look at the crossover here:
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/fast-fun-inexpensive-ob-project.110583/post-6507952
You will see a cap a coil and a resistor in series with the Vifa. The coil flattens the rising response of the Vifa. The resistor R2 that is in parallel with the coil sets how much the response if flattened. Higher values of the resistance push down the top end more. Lower values allow more rise. You can adjust the tonality of the Vifa simply using R2. Lower value of R2=brighter, Higher value of R2=duller.
Excellent answer, thankyou. I cannot say that the Vifa needs adjustment in its flattening right now, so I will begin to adjust the level of them. Just ordered two L-pads 😊...
Did some listening today and it is amazing how much a change of position make for the base. I will get a class D amp for more power, they do need more of that.
 
Wow! Thank you. Would a Zobel be better than just getting a larger inductor, say,15mH for the two in parallel?
For the price of the Viva, I will save myself the experimentation and just get a couple rather than use the PS95
Half the impedance means half the inductance. Sounds great, doesn't it - BUT the currents are twice as big, so you still need the same core size - and half the turns of twice the cross-sectional area for the winding!
 
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A zobel is a filter on impedance. By flattening the impedance it allows the simple low-pass to operate in a more consistent fashion,
so that does not become useless at higher frequencies.

A simple filter with a zobel has less phase shift than a higher order filter, although ironically it has one more component.
You can play with the response a little by strengthening or weakening the resistor.
 
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Yes a Zobel circuit will help flatten the woofer impedance curve, making the crossover more like it would be with a simple resistor.
Below is a chart of what the electrical response of the 20mH coil would be with the GRS-15". This called the filter factor. Notice that with the Zobel* (red) the curve is an almost perfect 1st order low pass falling 6dB per octave. Without the Zobel (blue), the filter flattens out above 1kHz making a shelf. The shelf is at -25dB, that's the most attenuation you'll get. You can try the Zobel to hear if you like it or not. It will effect the top end of the woofer response.

Zobel-Nobe largel.png


*Zobel of 10uF+10R
 
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Well on paper two woofers in parallel means 4 ohms, so you would use 10mH. However...... When I did two 15" in parallel I still needed at least 15-18mH. No free lunch. It's just the way the baffle size and woofers worked out. Having never run 2x8" I'd only be guessing at the inductor value needed. I would not go smaller than 12mH, for sure.

Don't worry too much about the Zobel. At such a low crossover point, it isn't as critical as it is with a higher crossover point, I'll see if I can figure out an approximate set of values for two woofers in parallel.
 
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A note on crossovers.

The big 20mH inductor in series with the woofer forms a 1st order low pass at about 60Hz. If you can't get the inductors, you can try an active low pass on the woofer. Start with 60Hz low pass, first order - and that will get you close. The inductor has a DC resistance of about 0.6 ohms, so you might try two 1.2 ohm resistors in parallel connected between the amp and the woofer. Use 10 watt or better. This series resistance changes the Q of the woofer, slightly bumping up the bottom end. That will bring the active closer to the sound of the passive crossover. It's cheap and easy to try.

The big fat inductor also changes the way that the woofer and amplifier interact, which you will not get with an active crossover. Part of what makes the Manzanita work is that big iron core inductor. But if you can't get one, or just want to try active, then the info above should help.
 
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