TDL RTL2 upgrades - diyAudio
Go Back   Home > Forums > Loudspeakers > Multi-Way

Multi-Way Conventional loudspeakers with crossovers

Please consider donating to help us continue to serve you.

Ads on/off / Custom Title / More PMs / More album space / Advanced printing & mass image saving
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 21st August 2007, 08:18 PM   #1
diyAudio Member
 
mikesnowdon's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Default TDL RTL2 upgrades

Hi!

I won a pair of RTL2 on ebay for 5.50!

Decided to modify and upgrade them and need some help/advice please....

First step: Crossover, whats the best way to impove it?

Second step: Drivers. Ive been advised to go for Vifa M17WH-09-08 midbass and Morel MDT30s tweeters. Are there any alternatives which would work without altering the crossover?

Third step: Enclosure. I plan on lining every internal surface with self-adheisive Bitumen deadsheet. Im also keen to learn of any other materials I could use for damping. What about 'dimple foam' or 'acetate fibre'?
Finally im going to attatch a new front baffe over the existing one (click attatchment) and apply 'Birdseye maple' veneer....

Any advice, hints, or tips will be greatly appreciated!
Attached Files
File Type: pdf baffle tdl rtl2 snowdon.pdf (59.2 KB, 328 views)
  Reply With Quote
Old 26th September 2007, 03:00 PM   #2
engine is offline engine  United Kingdom
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
well done on your purchase, i thought i had a bargain paying 19.00 for a pair.great speakers as they are but i am interested
myself in upgrading the drive units in the future.i have been in touch with lockwood audio who can source mk 2 versions of the tweeters but can no longer supply the main drivers but can advise on an alternative make. birdseye finish sounds nice.sorry but can't offer much advice as i am new to this forum but good luck with your project, please let us know how you get on,engine.
  Reply With Quote
Old 26th September 2007, 05:00 PM   #3
diyAudio Member
 
mikesnowdon's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Hi and thanks for the reply.

I thought id share a recent mod with you as it is really cheap and hugely sucessfull.

I changed the internal wire, QED siler anniversary XT for the midbass driver and the old silver anniversary (the standard twisted version) for the tweeter (I chose not to use the XT on the tweeter as I did this previously on a pair ofALR/Jordan speakers and it made the treble far too 'bright' for my taste). I first removed to original wire and solder with a solder sucker making sure I removed all of it. Before I did this I marked with a pen on the crossover to ensure the new wires went on the correct terminals and the drivers were in the correct polarity. Then I resoldered the new wires with a good quality silver solder (this gives a better electrical connection than ordinary lead based solder).

While I had the drivers out I felt it would be a good experiment to re arrange the 'stuffing' inside the cabinet. It was just stuffed in to begin with so removed all of it and took each individual piece (about 4 per enclosure) and folded each of them in half and replaced them around the cabinet walls. This is tricky when doing the lower front portion of the box (youll see what I mean) but with care can be done. The result your looking for is to have all internal walls (exept that of the vent section) lined with the foam stuffing leaving free space at the rear of the main driver.

The result: More detail, better dynamics, imaging, clarity, and most notably, alot deeper bass. A really sucessfull mod. Well worth the effort.
  Reply With Quote
Old 26th September 2007, 05:35 PM   #4
diyAudio Member
 
justblair's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Glasgow, Scotland
While you have the bass drivers out of it can I suggest a mod that improved my missions but should be universal.

I used no more nails, but others have used putty. The baskets are no doubt pressed steel on these speakers (my memory says so). Damping or strengthening the steel basket reduced ringing from the baskets and cleans up the sound. Expect to hear improvements in the midrange to mid bass range of the sound.

The particular area of interest is the gap between the magnet and the steel frame. Fill this with putty or no more nails. This reduces ringing.

Others have gone further and added bracing to the legs of the basket. I cant see this doing anything other than good.

I found it to be the most cost effective upgrade on a pair of speakers.

Oh and yes on the rewire. I used three strands of mag wire, twisted together on a drill for my bass drivers, 2 strands on the tweeter. (18guage wire I think) rewiring IMHO is almost always an improvement.

Another cheap upgrade is a couple of slabs to stand them on.
  Reply With Quote
Old 26th September 2007, 07:55 PM   #5
diyAudio Member
 
mikesnowdon's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Sounds good, I'll give that a go. I read somewhere on the net a suggestion that covering the frame with Bitumen has a similar effect....

On the subject of cabinet stuffing. I intend to try out a product supplied by wilmslow audio. Its a composite of bitumen sheets bonded to acoustic foam on a self adheisive backing which you line the cabs with. This should improve things even further. Then I'm going to use varying amouts (in different locations) of lambswool stuffing (also supplied by Wilmslow) to 'tune' the sound to my taste. Will post results on this thread.

A note on the RTL2: The weakest links are undoubtedly the cabinet and the crossover. Folowing that its the tweeter, apparently the MOREL MDT30's brings a major improvement to this speaker. To improve the box im going to use 15mm dowel cut into lengths that run from front baffle directly behind the screw holes for the midbass, to the back panel. These will be srewed into the rear panel, then the midbass will be re-installed with slightly longer screws which penetrate the front baffle and go into the dowels. Again, will post results on this thead....
  Reply With Quote
Old 4th February 2008, 09:22 PM   #6
diyAudio Member
 
mikesnowdon's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
I got the Morel tweeters and they sound amazing!

I really like the sound, theres virtually no sibilance at all and they produce nice clean treble. Im really happy with the integration with the RTL2 midbass. The Morels seem to blend niceley.

Ive been advised that the Scanspeak 18W/8545-00 should work wel in the RTL cabinet. Ive seen a speaker design using this midbass with a D2905/9500 tweeter (http://www.troelsgravesen.dk/Diy_Lou...r_Projects.htm) and the mesurements are good.

Im considering attempting to incorporate this design into the RTL2 cabs. I'll need to make a completely new front baffle for this and in doing so I can give myself a little more volume to the box. The RTL2 cab is 25.5 ltr's which is enough for this driver. I can get it up to 26 with the new front baffle.

For a cheap and easy upgraed just fit the Morel MDT30's and upgrade the wire. Also fitting the Deadsheet panels will solve the cabinet resonances. Link for 'Deadsheet': (https://secure.wilmslow-audio.co.uk/...e7121c66dc3dd1)
  Reply With Quote
Old 18th April 2008, 10:30 PM   #7
diyAudio Member
 
mikesnowdon's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Heres a picture of the planned changes.

Existing cabinet is clad in 4mm Birch Ply exept front baffle which is cut out with a flush trim router bit. A new front baffle is made to accomodate the SS drivers in the layout suggested by Troels Gravesen:

(let me know what you think)
  Reply With Quote
Old 18th April 2008, 11:03 PM   #8
diyAudio Member
 
mikesnowdon's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
image below
Attached Images
File Type: jpg rtl amish 2.jpg (23.8 KB, 755 views)
  Reply With Quote
Old 11th May 2008, 10:17 AM   #9
diyAudio Member
 
mikesnowdon's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Update:

I have since upgraded my mains cable to Lapp CY with silver connectors. Great results but has the side effect of highlighting the brightness of my system.

I have ordered Jantzen Cross caps for the tweeter, and new resistors of a slightly larger value to drop the treble a tad.

The original tweeter section cosists of:

6 uF electrolytic Cap.

1.5 ohm 5w Resistor.

I had to order 2x 5.6uf and 2x 0.39 uf, as this was the closest match I could find. For the resistor I'v ordered 1.8 ohm, may try 2ohm later.

Im going to first try installing only the 5.6 uf and see how that affects the crossover point. If theres a difference it will probably be subtle. We'll see.

Once ive dtermined what sounds best I'll be ordering new coils and better resistors and re doing the whole crossover. Ive decided to do this rather than modding the entire speaker and changing drivers etc, allthough I may still do the above mentioned at a later date.

There is another interesting thread on the RTL2 here:

http://pinkfishmedia.net/forum/showthread.php?t=41991

Cheers, Mike.

Report coming soon.

Mike
  Reply With Quote
Old 11th May 2008, 09:33 PM   #10
SimontY is offline SimontY  United Kingdom
diyAudio Member
 
SimontY's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Sheffield, North England
Send a message via MSN to SimontY
Quote:
Originally posted by mikesnowdon
I had to order 2x 5.6uf and 2x 0.39 uf, as this was the closest match I could find. For the resistor I'v ordered 1.8 ohm, may try 2ohm later.
Sensible values to try. You might prefer the smaller value cap, and if it's a "better" cap, then it may want to be smaller anyway, as good caps can make the treble seem louder.

Look forward to hearing the results.

Simon
  Reply With Quote

Reply


Hide this!Advertise here!
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
TDL RTL2 help fraserh Multi-Way 7 16th January 2013 02:33 PM
Upgrades for D1 sixty9 Pass Labs 13 2nd July 2012 10:18 AM
ESS AMT 4 Upgrades dubhouse Planars & Exotics 10 10th May 2009 08:25 PM
t-amp upgrades Code Class D 1 14th January 2006 05:12 PM


New To Site? Need Help?

All times are GMT. The time now is 12:58 PM.


vBulletin Optimisation provided by vB Optimise (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2014 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
Copyright 1999-2014 diyAudio

Content Relevant URLs by vBSEO 3.3.2