Unity gain buffer for Sennheiser HD600

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The post showing the increased distortion with a 30 ohm source was measured with headphones (Sony MDR-V6) that have an input impedance of 63 ohms . That is WAY different than the Sennheiser's 300 ohms. The difference between 37 and 47 is NOT "considerably lower " but 63 vs 300 most definitely is!
I missed your comment earlier. Your point being? 47ohm gives with 300ohm headphones gives a damping factor of ~6.3, almost 1000 times smaller than the recommended damping factor.

Read the paper, it's short.
 
BUF634 is a driver chip from Texas Instruments, it's sound is preferred over the LME49600 (also from TI). I don't think you could do better than Patrick's suggestion for only $25.

That's impossible. the data sheets for the LME49600 and the BUF634 are identical except for packaging. The circuits are the same as well. It's a moot point anyway since the LME49600 is NLA.
 
I know that. However, the HD600 are recommended as an entry level mixing headphones and they are a pair I can afford and have the flattest frequency response in their price range. Believe me, I have done my research. Also with software such as Sonarworks Reference, it is possible to achieve an absolutely flat frequency response with a limited set oh headphones, HD600 included.

Can you please explain that?

Recommend by whom? As I understand it, at least one school requires the Sony MDR7506, which has a flatter frequency response than the HD600. Likewise, the Sony MDRV6 is a classic choice. Both of these Sony's are far cheaper than the HD600 also. If you are going to EQ your headphones then you might as well start with some that are nearly flat to begin with. How are you going to EQ them anyway, by ear?
 
What is NLA? No longer available?

Yes, No Longer Available. TI has a last call order date of September 2016, but suppliers have long since run out. Unless you want to by 100's, then you are out of luck on the LME49600/10. As far as I can tell, they are identical to the still available BUF634 anyway, so it's not a huge problem. I'm guessing that the LME49600 was just a selected BUF634 anyway, but have not confirmed that with TI.

They have discontinued a process used to make some of their chips, so that means many of them are NLA now, including many from the LME series.
 
I missed your comment earlier. Your point being? 47ohm gives with 300ohm headphones gives a damping factor of ~6.3, almost 1000 times smaller than the recommended damping factor.

Read the paper, it's short.

I use these buffers inside of a feedback loop for my headphone amps for Swetone Audio. They can drive anything (except HiFiMan). With a 300 ohm headphone, you may want some gain since 2Vrms (the consumer standard digital output voltage) may not be enough to drive them to full output. However, a buffer would be fine for a lower impedance headphone like the Sony's I mentioned.
 
I'll be driving the buffer with a ±15 power supply

Look, it is a bad idea to just use a plain buffer with no feedback or op amp. The reason it's a bad idea is because the DC offset on the outputs of those buffers is uncontrolled and that is a big deal with headphones. Enclosing the buffer inside of a feedback loop with an op amp will insure that the DC offset is extremely low, depending on the skill of the designer of course. It's possible to screw up anything but running buffers without feedback is still a bad idea. Headphones are sensitive to DC so it's an important consideration.
 
I read the "white paper" describing the performance advantages of their 0-ohm headphone amplifier. Hmmmm.....this is the first measurement I've ever seen that proves that a 30 ohm resistor generates so much distortion!! I guess you have to take it at face value---their headphone amplifier does not like to drive resistive loads in series with headphones. I don't know why that is. I'm also not sure if that is true with every power amplifier extant.
 
That BUF634 board is running open loop. It looks to have 10-Ohm output resistors + the 10-Ohm output impedance of the BUF634 = ~20-Ohm total.

Perhaps OPA551 at unity gain would be a better option.

EDIT: There are also cheap BUF634 headphone amp boards on ebay. You could change out the resistors and op-amp for a unity-gain configuration.
 
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Thanks, however both of those Sonys are not open-back...
Why is that important? I don't understand. The opposite is the case as far as I can tell for your application. You do not want to hear any background noise for mastering and recording purposes.
It is important for a couple of reasons. The cases for open-back headphones are
  • Improved, more natural stereo image (compared to non-existent in closed back headphones)
  • Flatter frequency response
  • Better, more realistic reproduction of bass
Therefore, these headphones are recommended for mixing and mastering (aka monitoring).

The production-related case for closed-back headphones, and probably the reason why a school would require them, is that open backs "bleed", ie. everyone within 20 meters can hear what you're listening to on the headphones. That is unacceptable when recording (laying down tracks, aka tracking), because any mic nearby would pickup the playback from an open-back set. A good set of closed-back headphones, however, eliminates this completely (imagine 20 students in a classroom with open-backs ...and headaches for all!). I hope that answers that for you 🙂

Look, it is a bad idea to just use a plain buffer with no feedback or op amp.
The feeding signal is the headphones output from the audio interface. Does it change anything?

That BUF634 board is running open loop. It looks to have 10-Ohm output resistors + the 10-Ohm output impedance of the BUF634 = ~20-Ohm total.
Is the alternative solution below from Mooly a better idea?
For an opamp buffer all you really need is the output stage from the O2 amplifier... and its just classic opamp text book design. Two dual opamps and a few other resistors and a volume control. It would accept a line level input directly.
Capture2.JPG


There are also cheap BUF634 headphone amp boards on ebay. You could change out the resistors and op-amp for a unity-gain configuration.
Anything in particular you recommend?
 
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