I just received my boards and wow they are smaller then I was expecting but the quality looks to be excellent! I'm just waiting on my Digikey order which should be here in the next day or two and I can get started
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What size/shape tip do you guys reccomend for soldering these tiny smd parts? I have a Weller EC1002 soldering station with this tip Weller ETA Screwdriver Tip, 1/16"[PRICE is per EACH] - Soldering Iron Tips - Amazon.com do you think it will work or should I go with something else?
I agree 100% with Andrew... a 2mm chisel tip is perfect for everything on those boards.
You will have difficulty getting enough heat into the joints with a fine point tip, although some people seem to prefer them. I suppose it depends on technique, experience, and whatever you learned with.
Glad the boards arrived in good order!
Regards,
Owen
You will have difficulty getting enough heat into the joints with a fine point tip, although some people seem to prefer them. I suppose it depends on technique, experience, and whatever you learned with.
Glad the boards arrived in good order!
Regards,
Owen
Interesting. I'm going to build my second SE-SE soon and I want to reduce the turn-on/off noise I'm hearing on my first build (which apparently gets louder with bigger output caps). I was thinking about going down to 330uF (just like in PSU v1). Could someone explain why v2 has bigger input (3300uF vs 1200uF) and output (3300uF vs 330uF) caps?
Got my PSU board finished last night all ready for testing Soldering those tiny parts was much easier then I was expecting.
Soldering those tiny parts was much easier then I was expecting.An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
I just tested everything and my SE-SE is up and running and sound great! Now I just need to get it mounted in an enclosure and wired up and another "Wire" will be born I ordered a nice aluminum enclosure but it will take a few weeks to get here from China so I picked up this cheap plastic enclosure from Radio Shack to use in the mean time. I have a quick question about grounding in a plastic enclosure. Normally I would attach a safety ground wire from the IEC input jack to the metal enclosure but obviously that won't work with a plastic enclosure so where should I attach the ground?
I ordered a nice aluminum enclosure but it will take a few weeks to get here from China so I picked up this cheap plastic enclosure from Radio Shack to use in the mean time. I have a quick question about grounding in a plastic enclosure. Normally I would attach a safety ground wire from the IEC input jack to the metal enclosure but obviously that won't work with a plastic enclosure so where should I attach the ground?
Nope no exposed conductive parts the enclosure is completely plastic. I got it wired up using a two prong power cable and it's dead silent so I think Ill just leave it alone since this enclosure is only temporary.
not true - just look at most DVD/universal Disc players today - 2 wire IEC - no safety gnd connection at all and metal cases
does require double/reinforced insulation speced parts, construction measures to secure mains side wiring from contacting the case in any single point/joint failure
3-wire plugs do often come with the requirement of safety gnding exposed metal in most safety codes
You are describing a Class11 product that is designed, built, tested and guaranteed to be safe without a Protective Earth (PE).
We are working with Class1 projects (when they are mains powered). We must use a Protective Earth. We have no choice.
In this "no choice" situation I stand by by usage of:
AND
that was why I asked:
His reply would determine his course of action.
his pic shows a 2 prong plug - he doesn't have a safety gnd/PE
there are construction/testing requirements for PE product too
I don't see why a diyer has any less liability with home constructed PE/safety gnded equipment - who is testing the PE/safety gnd impedance with traceable equipment? sending the proto to a independent test lab? - got ISO cert?
I do like to see "international" split bobbin EI where the isolation is visible rather than just rely on toroid manufacturer label in absence of your own home HiPot tester
there are construction/testing requirements for PE product too
I don't see why a diyer has any less liability with home constructed PE/safety gnded equipment - who is testing the PE/safety gnd impedance with traceable equipment? sending the proto to a independent test lab? - got ISO cert?
I do like to see "international" split bobbin EI where the isolation is visible rather than just rely on toroid manufacturer label in absence of your own home HiPot tester
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I have accidently been jolted by 117vAC and once by 220. There is really no comparison between the effects. In a perfect world each electronic device would be self powered. Until we get there, the rules for the more efficient but much more dangerous high voltage "mains" should be stricter and followed more carefully IMHO.
Does this mean that the rca jacks and headphone jack should be connected to the safety ground? I'm going to rewire with a 3prong plug just to play it safe.
On a separate note I somehow managed to kill my power transformer when I mounted it in the enclosure. It was working fine for hours until I mounted it and now it's only putting out 4VAC on each secondary. Any ideas what could have caused that? I've already tested the amp with a different transformer and it works fine so at least no damage was done but I'm really curious how something like this could happen since I've never had a transformer go bad on me before.
On a separate note I somehow managed to kill my power transformer when I mounted it in the enclosure. It was working fine for hours until I mounted it and now it's only putting out 4VAC on each secondary. Any ideas what could have caused that? I've already tested the amp with a different transformer and it works fine so at least no damage was done but I'm really curious how something like this could happen since I've never had a transformer go bad on me before.
you need to know what to look for in parts specs, follow the construction requirements
many cheap toroids, layer wound EI, R, C core may not be double/reinforced insulated and should only be used with PE/Safety gnd
mounting of toroids can cause issues - creating shorted turn with the mounting hardware is a big problem - heat has to be considered too
buying a "wall wart", or other safety rated supply with SELV output is simplest at headphone amp power and V levels if you don't have the safety knowledge, skills, competence for working with mains V
many cheap toroids, layer wound EI, R, C core may not be double/reinforced insulated and should only be used with PE/Safety gnd
mounting of toroids can cause issues - creating shorted turn with the mounting hardware is a big problem - heat has to be considered too
buying a "wall wart", or other safety rated supply with SELV output is simplest at headphone amp power and V levels if you don't have the safety knowledge, skills, competence for working with mains V
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Here's my completed SE-SE Wire in its temporary enclosure, it's not pretty but it'll do until my aluminum enclosure arrives In a few weeks. I took everyone's advice and rewired with a 3prong plug and safety ground and also replaced the dead Talema transformer with a higher quality 12v/10va Antek. Thank you to everyone who helped I really appreciate it
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
That's why I asked the question.
I don't know.
I am not qualified to design, nor build, nor test, nor guarantee the safety of a Class11 product.
With Class1 product the limit of responsibility seems to stop at the in/out sockets.
I can see quite clearly that the way we plug in other equipment to our Class1 equipment that we should consider our responsibility for what is connected and may constitute a Hazard.
In my somewhat biased view I consider that the interconnects that have exposed conductive parts at the far ends MUST be connected to Safety Earth.
Does that extend to headphones that have some exposed conductive parts?
Quick question before I hit the buy button on Digikey...
I'm using the Wire PSU to power a JG Buffer for an ES9023 based dac -- The Acko ADK23P. The buffer requires 15v-0-15v and has a current draw of up to ~32mA. With no modifications to the PSU PCB could I use this trafo? -- Invalid Request
By the way built the SE-SE version about 1.5 years ago and it's still one of my favorite amps. Have brought it to a bunch of headphone meets and it always gets the nod of approval. Maybe someday I'll graduate to the BAL-BAL version.
I'm using the Wire PSU to power a JG Buffer for an ES9023 based dac -- The Acko ADK23P. The buffer requires 15v-0-15v and has a current draw of up to ~32mA. With no modifications to the PSU PCB could I use this trafo? -- Invalid Request
By the way built the SE-SE version about 1.5 years ago and it's still one of my favorite amps. Have brought it to a bunch of headphone meets and it always gets the nod of approval. Maybe someday I'll graduate to the BAL-BAL version.