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Component Kit for Ultra Fast Diode Bridge.

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bigparsnip said:
Are you sure that is only a two legged device, on the front page of teh data sheet it clearly shows a package with three legs, and says it contains two diodes sharing a common terminal (again, three legs). So, if the devices you do have are the ones on the data sheet then they should indeed work with the board.

Sorry Andrew, that spec sheet is for an alternate I can get if I have to. Here is the spec sheet for the ones I have in stock.

http://www.irf.com/product-info/datasheets/data/hfa25pb60.pdf
 
If those are indeed the ones you have now then I'm affraid whilst they would solder into the boards they wouldn't actualy make up a functioning rectifier, as on the boards the centre pin (on TO-247 cases) is the common Cathode pin, and the outer two are the individual Anode pins.

I didn't realise when you first asked back in the main thread that you were refering to the devices with two pins in a TO-247 case (I hadn't actualy come accross any back then) as you didn't specify the actual part number of the diodes. And although I may not have been entirely clear in my repply stating that the devices would need to be three pin for TO-247, and two pin for TO-220 this is definately the case (hence the reason for having the three pads for the larger devices). I thought it should be clear from the fact that the BYW99W-200 device has three legs, and a pin out that isn't compatable with the two pin devices. I appologise for any inconvenience this may have caused, and if there is anything that you feel I could do to help you out with this plese drop me an e-mail and I will se what I can do to help you out.

Andrew.
 
Yes, those MUR3020's should work fine in the PCB (in fact, they are the type I have soldered into the first couple of boards to do some tests with - not that I have actualy conected them up to anything yet) as they have the two diodes in the one TO-247 package.

If these are cheeper for you to get, and you are happy with these ones compared to the BYW99W-200 that are used in the PASS Labs equipment then you should be able to get some and pop them into your boards when they turn up. Hopefuly I should be able to get to listen to the two different sets eventualy as well to see which are better. Although again, these will get a little hotter than the ones I am trying to order as they again have a higher voltage drop in opperation, so you may want to keep an eye on that if you are running them close to their limits.
 
bigparsnip said:
Yes, those MUR3020's should work fine in the PCB (in fact, they are the type I have soldered into the first couple of boards to do some tests with - not that I have actualy conected them up to anything yet) as they have the two diodes in the one TO-247 package.

If these are cheeper for you to get, and you are happy with these ones compared to the BYW99W-200 that are used in the PASS Labs equipment then you should be able to get some and pop them into your boards when they turn up. Hopefuly I should be able to get to listen to the two different sets eventualy as well to see which are better. Although again, these will get a little hotter than the ones I am trying to order as they again have a higher voltage drop in opperation, so you may want to keep an eye on that if you are running them close to their limits.

Arrggghhh this sucks!!!

Actually, the Vf looks to be the same on the MUR3020 as the BYW99 part.

Regards

Anthony
 
Well it will fit in the board :xeye:

the main reasoning behind going for the BYW99 types was simply that these are what are supposed to be used in the real thing, so I figured if you are going to spend this much on a rectifier you might as well try and do it properly. If other people want to go a different route then it is quite possible for them to do so as (hopefully) the board is reasonabley flexible when it comes to component choice (this being un unfortunate reminder that you can't always be 100% compatable though).

also with regards to the voltage drop, I think you are probably right here, as I went back to the data sheet for the BYW99's and the 0.8V I was thinking of was for 12A per diode at 125 degrees, rather than any of the values mentioned on the MUR3020 data sheet (and I wouldn't want to make much of a comment from the graphs, although it might just be the MUR3020 is a smidge lower around there anyway).

Anyway, I would appreciate it if you could send me any more questions directly *** this is tking the thread a little off topic now.
 
Ok, wouild anyone here object to me closing the order before I said I would this weekend, so that I can collect paymnet the following week and place the orders for the components early? As, I think I might be able to just squeeze this in before my exams if I can get most of the payments by the midle of next week and get the orders for the components in then too. If you have any oppinions one way or the other, I would appreciate if you would tell me here.

Andrew.
 
OK, unless anyone complains at me between now and sunday, I will be shutting the order down at 2300 GMT on sunday the 4th of April. I will need all payments to be made by Sunday the 11th of April as well, so I can try and get this done before my exams start. But hopefully this will be a good thing for you all as well, as it will mean getting your components more quickly.

One other good thing is the fianl prices of the kits, which have come down a fair bit from the costs given on the first page of this thread. The final costs of the kits will now be:

Kit 1: £5.40
Kit 2: £3.20
Kit 3: £1.10

So the total to populate one board will be just under £10. I will work out the postage for everyone seperately and send you all out individual e-mails with the final cost for the components and the extra postage for those who have already payed a part allong with their PCB payment.

Andrew
 
further suggestions

Right now, 444 heatsinks are being ordered. The supplier's next price break is at 500, and it's already cheaper to order this amount:

444 x 0,94 = 417,36
500 x 0,80 = 400,00 (all prices in €)

Another issue:
Looking at the photos of Andrew's and Anthony's finished boards, it might be a good idea to insulate the diodes from the sinks.

Sil-pads will certainly do, but Fischer also offers Kapton washers (thermal res. 0,07 K/W),
which should go very well with your IRFP044/240 (any Aleph-X builders out there?) :cool:

Pricing is 0,41 € each (100 off)

Please check for the prices in the UK. In case you're interested, we could expand the wiki for this item.
Shipping is no problem, since I order the heatsinks there anyway.
 
So, for the heatsink thing we would end up with aboout 50 'free' heatsinks. What do you think would be the best thing to do with these though, as I'm not sure I would ever need them all (it may be possible to send them out to anyone willing to pay a little bit extra postage I suppose)? But, anyway, it would seem daft not to do that now, even if they doo just sit in someones parts box waiting to be used up.

As for the Kapton washers, I guess I would probably be intrested in a few, as that is by far the best price I have seen for that standard of washer over here (I think RS wanted to charge over a pund each just for a sillpad for a TO-247). But, I wouldn't need anywhere neer 100, so I guess that would also depend on what other people want to do as well (I guess probably around 30-50 wouild be good for me right now).
 
Yep, these are the same type as the maplin ones. At the moment, the price is £3.20 for four (including the nuts and Bolts you need to mount a diode or transistor on them), but if you want to order in different numbers that's fine too. And if we get another few orders (500 sinks minimum), the price will drop down closer to £2.80 for four (which would be nice). If you do want some if you go to the WIKI page below and just add on how many of teh heatsinks you want in the comments field that will be fine.

Andrew

http://www.diyaudio.com/wiki/index.php?page=Rectifier+Components
 
Re: further suggestions

Michi124 said:
Sil-pads will certainly do, but Fischer also offers Kapton washers (thermal res. 0,07 K/W),
which should go very well with your IRFP044/240 (any Aleph-X builders out there?)

Michi, would it be possible to get Kapton sheet aswell. I need it in my Aleph 2's were I plan to mount the transistor directly on 10x40x50mm copper blocks. I have silicone sheet to use between the copper blocks and the heatsink, but the Kapton has much lower thermal res.

Cheers
Svein
 
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