Hey Scott,
Would the modelled response of the straight BIB's with the fe108's that I'm doing be the same as the folded BIB. What effect does driver being at .434 the length have?
In regards to mass loading...would marble have the same effect, if you could cut a hole in it? Here at bauhaus you can buy masonry hole cutters at 103mm and the hole for the fe108 is 102mm...could be interesting!!!
Hope everyone is haveing a happy holiday!
Stroop
Would the modelled response of the straight BIB's with the fe108's that I'm doing be the same as the folded BIB. What effect does driver being at .434 the length have?
In regards to mass loading...would marble have the same effect, if you could cut a hole in it? Here at bauhaus you can buy masonry hole cutters at 103mm and the hole for the fe108 is 102mm...could be interesting!!!
Hope everyone is haveing a happy holiday!
Stroop
Stroop,
What do you have for a marble source? There's a joint here locally that from time to time has odds and ends of granite and marble that had been intended for kitchen counter tops. It's usually 25" deep by whatever. There also a couple of local companies that fabricate stone. They could cut and dimension the 3/4" stuff easily enough. Not sure what that might cost. I know if you have stone counters made they start about $200 per foot.
Now that you got me thinking about this, once one had the material dimensioned and the holes milled they could be assembled with epoxy. You'd almost have to use butt joints for the 4 box sides. I'm not sure how that might look. It's not like your going to flush them up with a normal belt in your belt sander.
Then you'd have to devise away to polish the cut edges. Hmmm... interesting to contemplate. Very original idea I think Stroop.Rick
Hi Rick!
There's a speaker company here in Germany that cuts its cabinets from some sort of granite or something, it's a beautiful dark grey and they polish it up....so no, not original I'm afraid...I'll post a link of somesort when I find the article!
Wait until you see my BIB, again not original idea, but I don't think anyone other than me, is stupid enough to have cabinets 250cm's tall for a single fe108.
For me it is all about the footprint size. Height doesn't matter!
The beautiful thing is I got enough room in the cabinet to do all sorts of things, like making them active....blah blah! I'll try and get pictures when I finish, how about that?!
Oh...almost forgot! You can get almost everything at 'Bauhaus'!!!! marble cut to measure included. Cabinets out of the stuff would be a bit of a bugger to move, though.... ; )
By the way...any recommendations on glue for speakers? I know this has been discussed a million times...sorry.
Stroop
There's a speaker company here in Germany that cuts its cabinets from some sort of granite or something, it's a beautiful dark grey and they polish it up....so no, not original I'm afraid...I'll post a link of somesort when I find the article!
Wait until you see my BIB, again not original idea, but I don't think anyone other than me, is stupid enough to have cabinets 250cm's tall for a single fe108.
For me it is all about the footprint size. Height doesn't matter!The beautiful thing is I got enough room in the cabinet to do all sorts of things, like making them active....blah blah! I'll try and get pictures when I finish, how about that?!
Oh...almost forgot! You can get almost everything at 'Bauhaus'!!!! marble cut to measure included. Cabinets out of the stuff would be a bit of a bugger to move, though.... ; )
By the way...any recommendations on glue for speakers? I know this has been discussed a million times...sorry.
Stroop
This should be of use to you: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=86636&highlight=
Re glue, for the cabinets themselves you mean? Normal PVA wood-glue is fine.
Re glue, for the cabinets themselves you mean? Normal PVA wood-glue is fine.
Thanks Scott!
I knew I'd seen that somewhere! Darned if I could find it though!
Ok I won't fret too much over the glue. I'll use what I got.
Oh yeah. The wood is here!!!!!! Going to buy clamps now and some sand paper. You wouldn't believe it but there is a felt shop over the road, with lovely 100% wool felt offcuts!
Driver's aren't here yet.
Stroop
I knew I'd seen that somewhere! Darned if I could find it though!
Ok I won't fret too much over the glue. I'll use what I got.
Oh yeah. The wood is here!!!!!! Going to buy clamps now and some sand paper. You wouldn't believe it but there is a felt shop over the road, with lovely 100% wool felt offcuts!
Driver's aren't here yet.
Stroop
Any carpenters glue will do as Scott said.
Myself for the last few years have been using polyurethane glue as much as anything.
Now if I'm gluing something up that's complicated like a table with multiple stretchers or whatever I'll use the ready prepaired hide glue that Titebond has out It gives a longer open time in case you have problems getting everything together at first. Of course along with that longer open time comes a considerably longer clamp time. Instead of taking the clamps off after 4 or 5 hours it's like 24 hours or longer if the shop temps are cool.
2 part epoxy can be useful also.
Rick
Blumenco and Godzilla,
If you've got high ceilings too I'll let you know how my TBIB's (Tall BIB) go. Mine are about 8 feet tall and will be driven by the fe108's. I've got tall ceiling's (10 feet plus) and thought this could be a solution. Scott reckon's they'll be smoother above 150HZ due to the driver being placed at .434 the length, without losing any Bass.
Sorry to be nosey...
Stroop
If you've got high ceilings too I'll let you know how my TBIB's (Tall BIB) go. Mine are about 8 feet tall and will be driven by the fe108's. I've got tall ceiling's (10 feet plus) and thought this could be a solution. Scott reckon's they'll be smoother above 150HZ due to the driver being placed at .434 the length, without losing any Bass.
Sorry to be nosey...
Stroop
height.
looking at the sketchy scetch, we notice that the baffle is only 60 inches tall, and that driver height is roughly 30 inches.
to get line length of ~140, we must make the back side of the horn, and hence the whole shebang 80 inches tall.
top panels are a pseudo exponential horn mouth, and give the extra 20 inches to the height. they will prove a little more difficult to assemble than a typical top of a bib, as the doubleing of side, front panels and spineing of the internal baffle and rear.
truncating of the So? hopefully deal with structural stability and from high F info being propogated, necessitating less damping?
cross sectional area is not shown, and is as yet not determined. I will adjust it to however many steps I want on the horn mouth.
searching for limitless dynamics from a full range 1. no super tweeter.
looking for better? coupling to a 8 foot to 10 foot room.
in 8 foot especially (a typical room), it gives a final "fold" to the horn (at approx 1.2ft radius), extending the superlow bass which is normally rolled off from giving more mouth area (from my length/area extenders)...??? helps coupling, especially in small rooms???
that is sortof the way I see the nessies set up frequently. the top mouth couples almost directly with the ceiling, seeming choked, but not really. hence my name for the things: bessie!
through this style of implimentation, I beleive this falls under a variant of the BIB, where So does not equal zero and line length does not divide into two equal lengths...
these sorts of tweakings can be a true crapshoot. typically takes several builds to refine....lots o wood!
we'll see. in either case, I certainly hope this build coming up does not sound BAD!
my build will weigh approx 180 lbs. will be quite top heavy, use a narrow base, and are unsuitable as a product, but would be very suitable for el34s!....i wanna no lawsuits for crushed babies!
maybe they could be attached to the wall or ceiling by a safety cable?
just tryin to push the boundaries here. trying not to get things too complecated either.
later
Clark
looking at the sketchy scetch, we notice that the baffle is only 60 inches tall, and that driver height is roughly 30 inches.
to get line length of ~140, we must make the back side of the horn, and hence the whole shebang 80 inches tall.
top panels are a pseudo exponential horn mouth, and give the extra 20 inches to the height. they will prove a little more difficult to assemble than a typical top of a bib, as the doubleing of side, front panels and spineing of the internal baffle and rear.
truncating of the So? hopefully deal with structural stability and from high F info being propogated, necessitating less damping?
cross sectional area is not shown, and is as yet not determined. I will adjust it to however many steps I want on the horn mouth.
searching for limitless dynamics from a full range 1. no super tweeter.
looking for better? coupling to a 8 foot to 10 foot room.
in 8 foot especially (a typical room), it gives a final "fold" to the horn (at approx 1.2ft radius), extending the superlow bass which is normally rolled off from giving more mouth area (from my length/area extenders)...??? helps coupling, especially in small rooms???
that is sortof the way I see the nessies set up frequently. the top mouth couples almost directly with the ceiling, seeming choked, but not really. hence my name for the things: bessie!
through this style of implimentation, I beleive this falls under a variant of the BIB, where So does not equal zero and line length does not divide into two equal lengths...
these sorts of tweakings can be a true crapshoot. typically takes several builds to refine....lots o wood!
we'll see. in either case, I certainly hope this build coming up does not sound BAD!
my build will weigh approx 180 lbs. will be quite top heavy, use a narrow base, and are unsuitable as a product, but would be very suitable for el34s!....i wanna no lawsuits for crushed babies!
maybe they could be attached to the wall or ceiling by a safety cable?
just tryin to push the boundaries here. trying not to get things too complecated either.
later
Clark
Hey Chris
I know you have probably thought of this before, but...an idea just came to me, inspired by the Philharmonie here in Berlin (not just there actually, but many concert halls)... they use big persex discs above the orchetra to disperse and direct the sound. Now...instead of building a bigger box why not use a board or disc of some gorgeous material and design that hovers above the opening either suspended from the ceiling or on an adjustable thingy that angles it correctly too.
Cheers Stroop
I know you have probably thought of this before, but...an idea just came to me, inspired by the Philharmonie here in Berlin (not just there actually, but many concert halls)... they use big persex discs above the orchetra to disperse and direct the sound. Now...instead of building a bigger box why not use a board or disc of some gorgeous material and design that hovers above the opening either suspended from the ceiling or on an adjustable thingy that angles it correctly too.
Cheers Stroop
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