Two way "fullrange"

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I am planing on building a two way speaker using the FE168EZ as a mid/tweeter and compliment it with a sub. So far so good, but the all the questions start when decide how to do it. Put the FE168EZ in a small sealed or BR box is one, and what type of bass enlosure is another.

But the biggest question is the crossover, passive then the bas has to be of high sensitivity since my set amp with 300B puts out around 8w. Active the I will need another amp for the sub.

What are your thoughts on this Run the fostex fullrage in a small ecnlosure and buy active subamps for the subs wich has crossover frequencies etc on them.

Any ideas are welcome. For reference i have the Basszilla but I have never heard and ob and neither have the space for it.
 
Looks like 3.7L sealed box gives -3dB around 150Hz. Roll-off is 12dB/oct (2nd order), which you could of course make steeper by adding a high-pass filter.

If it were me I would do that, and then use an active setup (4th order L-R for low-pass?) with high-wattage amp for the bass drivers in sealed cabs. I believe a relatively inexpensive prosound stereo power amp could be used, I'd check eBay or what.
 
If you have a pre-amp I would definately go active, you'll have figure out what slope and frequency, but I would guess a second order on the fostex @200Hz and a fourth order on whatever you deciede to run for the bass module. This is assuming stereo bass units. Passive is certainly a good option as well but you would need a larger cabinet to keep up in effeciency with the fostex, and you might want to move your crossover up to save to much of a crunch on your wallet.
Joe
 
I am doing something somewhat similar, Visaton B200's being run fullrange or I may stick a filter on the amp to roll them off ~70 Hz and a sealed Rythmik Audio servo sub in each with the matching servo amp.
I have everything except good weather to get started in earnest. I cut the baffles already but have to route the holes etc.
If you can I would go open baffle or at least try it for the mid driver.

Andrew
 
I'm doing exactly that of which you speak. However, going passive at this point. I'll be using the 168 open baffle to start with over the Fostex FW305 12" woofer. If the OB doesn't work, I'll go sealed. Joe Cole has been helping with some of the details, as he's gone in a similar direction, just with different drivers. As posted above, Illusus has as well. Sounds like he's also added a ribbon tweeter to his upper end.

Per a suggestion of Wayne at Pi Speakers, I'll be adding a first order cross over to both units to cross at about 200 hz. I will be experimenting with ribbon tweeters as both supertweeters and a full on tweeter. I may try biamping as well, as I happen to have an amp that could work nicely for the low end.

Hoping to start cutting wood this weekend, but not sure it'll happen with the weather. I have to work outside as I'm in an apartment.

Hope this helps a bit.
 
Only caution on the idea of using a prosound amp.. if it has an internal fan, that can add a lot of noise to your listening room background. I know by experience... bought a Crown (202 something if I recall correctly). Boy, those fans are noisy. Tempted to open the case and disconnect them.
 
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one1speed said:
I'll be adding a first order cross over to both units to cross at about 200 hz. I will be experimenting with ribbon tweeters as both supertweeters and a full on tweeter. I may try biamping as well, as I happen to have an amp that could work nicely for the low end.

I've at least 2 "similar" trials in the works (althou with some unobtainium TBs). Will try both series XO & i have breadboarded up a subtractive to trial in an active system.

dave
 
smbrown said:
Only caution on the idea of using a prosound amp.. if it has an internal fan, that can add a lot of noise to your listening room background. I know by experience... bought a Crown (202 something if I recall correctly). Boy, those fans are noisy. Tempted to open the case and disconnect them.
Good point.

I've checked eBay, you can also get some mid-fi hi-watt (100+ wpc) stereo power amps (Kenwood, etc) for not too much. Not sure how these would compare with the subwoofer "plate amps" you can get at partsexpress.
 
Andrewbee! That is also a solution, to stick a filter that the car hifi uses to just block anything under say 200 to the midrage and then ad a subamp to the subwofer. I save alot by doing this, noactive or passive crossover, no preamp etc.

For the sealed fostex enlosure do you have any dimensions that may work, also the crossing att 200 is something I havent calculated on I just got it from somwhere maybe its easier to find a sub that works up to 150 instead of 200
 
Hiya Dave,

Wilma passed ~180 miles to the S.W. and still caused damage and plenty flooding. Flooded 6 homes in my neighbourhood, and nobody had any insurance. After Hurricane Ivan the insurance premiums went up just under 300% so many folks simply cannot afford it anymore. Me I just cut back on stuff from you and I'm okay to pay:)

Andrew
 
I would still recomend using a capacitor for your fostex. Otherwise any bass content at anything more than background listening levels will push you 168s past thier x-max, thus hurting the midrange and treble as well. As far as something for the bottom end, if your using a seperate amp for that then sealed would be good (or OB, or anything you like), however if you decieded against an active set up then you'll probably end up with a ported prosound driver to keep up in effeciency.
Joe
 
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