208/T90A Cap
Thanks Guys. Nice to get home from a 16hr day, and have all this info to mull over!
I wonder what 208/T90A Bibsters have settled on. I started out using .68uf, with no attenuation. For a long time I thought I had wasted my money on the attenuator. Latter I decided that I liked it A LOT better with the T90A attenuated quite a bit. Right not I have the 208 in reverse polarity with the T90A (my pre-amp is phase inverting). I used the 1.0uf for awhile, but am back to the .68 with some attenuation. I don't have a way to measure anything. Just my ears.
Also, I think I need to dampen my room in such a way that it passes the WAF. I seem to hear more resolution with some blankets, etc. hung on some of the walls.
Sincerely,
Benjamin
Thanks Guys. Nice to get home from a 16hr day, and have all this info to mull over!
I wonder what 208/T90A Bibsters have settled on. I started out using .68uf, with no attenuation. For a long time I thought I had wasted my money on the attenuator. Latter I decided that I liked it A LOT better with the T90A attenuated quite a bit. Right not I have the 208 in reverse polarity with the T90A (my pre-amp is phase inverting). I used the 1.0uf for awhile, but am back to the .68 with some attenuation. I don't have a way to measure anything. Just my ears.
Also, I think I need to dampen my room in such a way that it passes the WAF. I seem to hear more resolution with some blankets, etc. hung on some of the walls.
Sincerely,
Benjamin
Overdue BIB report
Well I have had the FE168ESigma BIBs up and running for a couple of months now; that was the relatively easy part but describing how they sound is a lot harder so I’ve hesitated posting about them but now here goes.
They were not as easy a build as I had expected but that was more to do with my being too fastidious and a couple of wrong turns. I used the standard box dim’s for the driver on Zilla’s site. Originally they were going to be quick prototypes but when I saw the price of even quite poor quality ply I decided to make them well enough to keep them if I liked them. I’ve used very poor quality 18mm pine ply which is definitely not void free and is so rough that I glued a layer of 3mm MDF to the outside surface to give it more strength and so as I could veneer or paint them if happy with them. The internal baffle is 18mm particle board with the same 3mm MDF layer added but this time glued using a squiggle pattern of flexible silicone bead thinking that this would create a lot of irregular shaped areas that could vibrate and lose some of the midrange/high frequencies before thy exited the mouth. I can’t be sure if it has worked but there is very little if any I can hear in the way of them exiting the mouth.
I made a panel above the driver and one at the base of each speaker removable to make tuning the damping easier as I did not like the idea of trying to fish things in or out or dislocating my elbow. If I decide to finish the boxes further I will remove the screws and replace them with a dowel.
The supra baffle was made using a sheet of laminated radiata pine available at large hardwares stores here. It is very poor timber, but soft and easy to turn. Luckily I share a workshop with a skilled cabinetmaker who guided me through the turning process which I must say was very satisfying. He also recommended gluing a layer of 3mm MDF on the back to prevent tearing away of the timber at the edge where it turns under the baffle. Unfortunately shortly after I made these beautiful things they started to warp which meant spending a day cutting away the back and gluing timber to try and straighten them out, which has been reasonably successful although I put a gasket between the baffles and box just in case they weren’t perfectly flat. I put a 19mm dowel brace across the box about 150mm down from the opening.
Damping is a sort of rough removalist felt about 6mm thick and this is tacked into place on the inner baffle and one side from the pointy end to about 50mm below the driver as per instructions. For the base I bought a damping material from Jaycar (our RS ) which is a heavy 3mm vinyl (impregnated with something I think) material with a layer of foam bonded to it, about 7mm in total. I also cut a circle of this and stuck it on the back of the driver and used duct seal to smooth out the steps around the magnet.
Wiring is the plainest bell wire, single core tinned copper about 0.6mm diam. I also wire in externally a pair of cheap attenuators to play around with series resistance as I read earlier there may be some benefits when using high damping factor SS amps (not sure whether mine is) While building the boxes I had been running the drivers in at work and they probably had about 120-150 hrs at quite high volumes on them, and I was quite impressed by their dynamics and vitality when mounted in cardboard boxes........
Well I have had the FE168ESigma BIBs up and running for a couple of months now; that was the relatively easy part but describing how they sound is a lot harder so I’ve hesitated posting about them but now here goes.
They were not as easy a build as I had expected but that was more to do with my being too fastidious and a couple of wrong turns. I used the standard box dim’s for the driver on Zilla’s site. Originally they were going to be quick prototypes but when I saw the price of even quite poor quality ply I decided to make them well enough to keep them if I liked them. I’ve used very poor quality 18mm pine ply which is definitely not void free and is so rough that I glued a layer of 3mm MDF to the outside surface to give it more strength and so as I could veneer or paint them if happy with them. The internal baffle is 18mm particle board with the same 3mm MDF layer added but this time glued using a squiggle pattern of flexible silicone bead thinking that this would create a lot of irregular shaped areas that could vibrate and lose some of the midrange/high frequencies before thy exited the mouth. I can’t be sure if it has worked but there is very little if any I can hear in the way of them exiting the mouth.
I made a panel above the driver and one at the base of each speaker removable to make tuning the damping easier as I did not like the idea of trying to fish things in or out or dislocating my elbow. If I decide to finish the boxes further I will remove the screws and replace them with a dowel.
The supra baffle was made using a sheet of laminated radiata pine available at large hardwares stores here. It is very poor timber, but soft and easy to turn. Luckily I share a workshop with a skilled cabinetmaker who guided me through the turning process which I must say was very satisfying. He also recommended gluing a layer of 3mm MDF on the back to prevent tearing away of the timber at the edge where it turns under the baffle. Unfortunately shortly after I made these beautiful things they started to warp which meant spending a day cutting away the back and gluing timber to try and straighten them out, which has been reasonably successful although I put a gasket between the baffles and box just in case they weren’t perfectly flat. I put a 19mm dowel brace across the box about 150mm down from the opening.
Damping is a sort of rough removalist felt about 6mm thick and this is tacked into place on the inner baffle and one side from the pointy end to about 50mm below the driver as per instructions. For the base I bought a damping material from Jaycar (our RS ) which is a heavy 3mm vinyl (impregnated with something I think) material with a layer of foam bonded to it, about 7mm in total. I also cut a circle of this and stuck it on the back of the driver and used duct seal to smooth out the steps around the magnet.
Wiring is the plainest bell wire, single core tinned copper about 0.6mm diam. I also wire in externally a pair of cheap attenuators to play around with series resistance as I read earlier there may be some benefits when using high damping factor SS amps (not sure whether mine is) While building the boxes I had been running the drivers in at work and they probably had about 120-150 hrs at quite high volumes on them, and I was quite impressed by their dynamics and vitality when mounted in cardboard boxes........
Overdue BIB report
........ At home and set up against the wall, about 1.2 mtrs in from the cnrs. and firing across the room (5.5x3.5 3.5mtr) I must say initially I was disappointed. The bass seemed no lower than my standmounts and without the slam, although it didn’t swamp the room the way the standmounts could unless they were pulled out virtually into your lap. The imaging was not as specific either, and the sound stage seemed to extend back from the speakers rather than into the room. I thought this might have been due to them being pushed up against the wall so I pulled them out a bit which improved the situation without much affect on the bass. Next evening I hooked up the attenuators and tried various settings, this certainly was not a night and day difference but somewhere along the line I found the sound more to my liking . I took the damping out of the base and that made a significant difference; more bass, more tone, more kick in the kick drums, possibly just generally more dynamic. I listened to the mouth again and could hear some higher frequencies, not much but more than previously so I cut a rectangle of the felt and put that in and that seemed to take care of them.
I then sat back and listened for a while and I must say started to be quite impressed; I don’t know what changed(cant remember what I was drinking)……maybe these drivers are like the Dyns, they need a warm up period or more likely my ears needed time to adjust to this new presentation. Anyway listening to the Buena Vista Social Club and then Ruben Gonzales on piano after about half an hour I came to the conclusion that these speakers were doing something very right.
They are incredibly dynamic and play music with verve and gusto, I’ve listened to these tracks before and found parts of them interesting and others not so, this time I found all of it exciting and sensible (as in you could understand why that sound was there, in relation to the musical whole), the bass was there, low but not overwhelming, light footed and keeping the complicated rhythms alive . There was plenty of impact of the hammer on strings from vigorous playing, dramatic, fresh and musical. Everything of a piece, nothing astray that makes you wonder what instrument was that in the background or why was it there. These speakers are fun and very alive. They don’t seem to have quite the body in the sound of the Dyns, could this be the dip above 100hz?, but its early days. They also don’t project like them, which is a surprise as I thought this would be a specialty of theirs but there may be many surprises in store. They are reasonably well run in, about 150 hrs at high volume. I would like more air and the performers projected more into the room but this might improve with time. Maybe a tweeter at some stage? Also I can hear a very slight paperyness or dryness around vocals, assuming this is not the voids buzzing as it seems to be coming from the driver and not the box.. I have not been worried by or really noticed any of the reported beaming of this type of driver and only the slightest sharpness on occasions.
I ran my test disc through them; this has tone bursts from 20 hz up to 100hz in 2hz increments and then larger intervals up to 20khz plus 20 to 10khz and 20 to 20khz sweeps. Listening to the tone bursts the BIBS start clear at about 28hz and gradually and evenly rise up to 100hz with a clear increase in level in the 50hz region, my other speakers do this and even though it doesn’t seem to be a primary room mode I guess it is likely to be something to do with it(the room). The sweep is remarkably smooth considering what the sims look like, not as smooth as the Dyns. but no less smooth than other ‘accurate’ speakers I have owned. There are by the sounds of it a few peaks and dips along the way.
The above was written not long after I built them but not posted. The following is my current view of the BIBs three months later…….…the paperyness I had noticed seems to have disappeared, there is more air and space. They are a very smooth and detailed driver and only begin to sound sharp when the volume is up high. It is a very spacious sound, not bolted into place and extremely specific like my stand mounts but big and relaxed and all of a piece, very natural sounding. It is a sound that is relaxing, not in that it is warm(although its definitely not cold) but that it is coherent and consistent across the spectrum. It seems that most instruments and voices play with the same (high) quality and can be included easily in the musical structure. There are fewer little things to irritate and distract me about the sound and that lets me enjoy it more. They absolutely love atmospheric pieces, Nick Caves Red Right Hand for instance with a swirling dynamic mixture of Caves vocal over and around crashing metallic percussion, stabbing synth and eerie notes appearing to come from distant hills is hard to imagine being reproduced more evocatively. The sound stage is still more between and behind the speakers than in front so its more of a ‘you are there’ than a ‘they are here’ presentation than I get with my stand mounts. It is not a sound stage that I feel I have to be in one spot or it collapses so either the beaming is not such an issue or I need to get my hearing checked again. My hearing probably only goes to 15khz or so in my good ear and I am pretty happy with the high frequency reproduction of the 168es in comparison to the good dedicated tweeter on the Dyns, only losing the slightest detail on cymbal decay etc and lower down subjectively losing nothing to it.
They are EXTREMELY dynamic speakers and dynamically fast. The low bass is remarkable for such a small driver, and has a clean ‘transparent’ feel to it, not wooly at all…plenty of bone and no fat! Something else they excel at is strings, they sound full and sweet and grab your attention every time.
There is still a slight lack of body or weight to the sound, depending on the music . I cannot corner load them but have tried inverting them which I think added a slight amount of fullness and also brought the driver down to a height I like more as I often sit on the floor when listening to music and quite near field. However no matter what the track they still sing like a bird set free! I think they’re a great speaker and am very happy with them but even though they are a thing of beauty they are BIG, possibly too big for our lounge. My partner, Robynne, God bless her little cotton socks, didn’t tell me to turn around and take them back when they literally darkened our doorway but I can sense she thinks..no actually she tells me…they are too big to stay and I am reluctantly agreeing so I may soon be looking for a smaller design for these drivers and a home for a pair of BIB boxes. Not just yet though.
Thanks everyone for your help and input, it’s a great design and thread. Regards, Andrew
Pictures to follow (I hope)
........ At home and set up against the wall, about 1.2 mtrs in from the cnrs. and firing across the room (5.5x3.5 3.5mtr) I must say initially I was disappointed. The bass seemed no lower than my standmounts and without the slam, although it didn’t swamp the room the way the standmounts could unless they were pulled out virtually into your lap. The imaging was not as specific either, and the sound stage seemed to extend back from the speakers rather than into the room. I thought this might have been due to them being pushed up against the wall so I pulled them out a bit which improved the situation without much affect on the bass. Next evening I hooked up the attenuators and tried various settings, this certainly was not a night and day difference but somewhere along the line I found the sound more to my liking . I took the damping out of the base and that made a significant difference; more bass, more tone, more kick in the kick drums, possibly just generally more dynamic. I listened to the mouth again and could hear some higher frequencies, not much but more than previously so I cut a rectangle of the felt and put that in and that seemed to take care of them.
I then sat back and listened for a while and I must say started to be quite impressed; I don’t know what changed(cant remember what I was drinking)……maybe these drivers are like the Dyns, they need a warm up period or more likely my ears needed time to adjust to this new presentation. Anyway listening to the Buena Vista Social Club and then Ruben Gonzales on piano after about half an hour I came to the conclusion that these speakers were doing something very right.
They are incredibly dynamic and play music with verve and gusto, I’ve listened to these tracks before and found parts of them interesting and others not so, this time I found all of it exciting and sensible (as in you could understand why that sound was there, in relation to the musical whole), the bass was there, low but not overwhelming, light footed and keeping the complicated rhythms alive . There was plenty of impact of the hammer on strings from vigorous playing, dramatic, fresh and musical. Everything of a piece, nothing astray that makes you wonder what instrument was that in the background or why was it there. These speakers are fun and very alive. They don’t seem to have quite the body in the sound of the Dyns, could this be the dip above 100hz?, but its early days. They also don’t project like them, which is a surprise as I thought this would be a specialty of theirs but there may be many surprises in store. They are reasonably well run in, about 150 hrs at high volume. I would like more air and the performers projected more into the room but this might improve with time. Maybe a tweeter at some stage? Also I can hear a very slight paperyness or dryness around vocals, assuming this is not the voids buzzing as it seems to be coming from the driver and not the box.. I have not been worried by or really noticed any of the reported beaming of this type of driver and only the slightest sharpness on occasions.
I ran my test disc through them; this has tone bursts from 20 hz up to 100hz in 2hz increments and then larger intervals up to 20khz plus 20 to 10khz and 20 to 20khz sweeps. Listening to the tone bursts the BIBS start clear at about 28hz and gradually and evenly rise up to 100hz with a clear increase in level in the 50hz region, my other speakers do this and even though it doesn’t seem to be a primary room mode I guess it is likely to be something to do with it(the room). The sweep is remarkably smooth considering what the sims look like, not as smooth as the Dyns. but no less smooth than other ‘accurate’ speakers I have owned. There are by the sounds of it a few peaks and dips along the way.
The above was written not long after I built them but not posted. The following is my current view of the BIBs three months later…….…the paperyness I had noticed seems to have disappeared, there is more air and space. They are a very smooth and detailed driver and only begin to sound sharp when the volume is up high. It is a very spacious sound, not bolted into place and extremely specific like my stand mounts but big and relaxed and all of a piece, very natural sounding. It is a sound that is relaxing, not in that it is warm(although its definitely not cold) but that it is coherent and consistent across the spectrum. It seems that most instruments and voices play with the same (high) quality and can be included easily in the musical structure. There are fewer little things to irritate and distract me about the sound and that lets me enjoy it more. They absolutely love atmospheric pieces, Nick Caves Red Right Hand for instance with a swirling dynamic mixture of Caves vocal over and around crashing metallic percussion, stabbing synth and eerie notes appearing to come from distant hills is hard to imagine being reproduced more evocatively. The sound stage is still more between and behind the speakers than in front so its more of a ‘you are there’ than a ‘they are here’ presentation than I get with my stand mounts. It is not a sound stage that I feel I have to be in one spot or it collapses so either the beaming is not such an issue or I need to get my hearing checked again. My hearing probably only goes to 15khz or so in my good ear and I am pretty happy with the high frequency reproduction of the 168es in comparison to the good dedicated tweeter on the Dyns, only losing the slightest detail on cymbal decay etc and lower down subjectively losing nothing to it.
They are EXTREMELY dynamic speakers and dynamically fast. The low bass is remarkable for such a small driver, and has a clean ‘transparent’ feel to it, not wooly at all…plenty of bone and no fat! Something else they excel at is strings, they sound full and sweet and grab your attention every time.
There is still a slight lack of body or weight to the sound, depending on the music . I cannot corner load them but have tried inverting them which I think added a slight amount of fullness and also brought the driver down to a height I like more as I often sit on the floor when listening to music and quite near field. However no matter what the track they still sing like a bird set free! I think they’re a great speaker and am very happy with them but even though they are a thing of beauty they are BIG, possibly too big for our lounge. My partner, Robynne, God bless her little cotton socks, didn’t tell me to turn around and take them back when they literally darkened our doorway but I can sense she thinks..no actually she tells me…they are too big to stay and I am reluctantly agreeing so I may soon be looking for a smaller design for these drivers and a home for a pair of BIB boxes. Not just yet though.
Thanks everyone for your help and input, it’s a great design and thread. Regards, Andrew
Pictures to follow (I hope)
>>> It is a very spacious sound, not bolted into place and extremely specific like my stand mounts but big and relaxed and all of a piece, very natural sounding. It is a sound that is relaxing, not in that it is warm(although its definitely not cold) but that it is coherent and consistent across the spectrum.
Thanks pebbles! I agree and feel most everyone who has built BIBs feels the same based on their comments. To me, the sound is relaxed because the music comes out in an effortless way. Unless the volume is turned up very loud, BIBs don't stress.
>>> They are EXTREMELY dynamic speakers and dynamically fast. The low bass is remarkable for such a small driver, and has a clean ‘transparent’ feel to it, not wooly at all…plenty of bone and no fat! Something else they excel at is strings, they sound full and sweet and grab your attention every time.
There is still a slight lack of body or weight to the sound, depending on the music . I cannot corner load them...
Again, I agree. If you can corner load them they do sound fuller. But i have begun using a subwoofer with my BIBs to get the lowest notes and realized i can also warm the sound a little. After thinking this thru, i feel, regardless of the speakers i listen to and regardless of how large or small they are, a subwoofer is the way to get the best bass.
I love seeing the Dynaudio's off to the side! Maybe move them out of the room and begin building a second system for them. I will look at your pics again but i didnt notice any tubes. Move the Dyns out, corner load the one BIB a bit better and buy a tube amp... unless i missed it in the pic. Or, just enjoy as is! I hope they do get to stay in your home.
Godzilla
Thanks pebbles! I agree and feel most everyone who has built BIBs feels the same based on their comments. To me, the sound is relaxed because the music comes out in an effortless way. Unless the volume is turned up very loud, BIBs don't stress.
>>> They are EXTREMELY dynamic speakers and dynamically fast. The low bass is remarkable for such a small driver, and has a clean ‘transparent’ feel to it, not wooly at all…plenty of bone and no fat! Something else they excel at is strings, they sound full and sweet and grab your attention every time.
There is still a slight lack of body or weight to the sound, depending on the music . I cannot corner load them...
Again, I agree. If you can corner load them they do sound fuller. But i have begun using a subwoofer with my BIBs to get the lowest notes and realized i can also warm the sound a little. After thinking this thru, i feel, regardless of the speakers i listen to and regardless of how large or small they are, a subwoofer is the way to get the best bass.
I love seeing the Dynaudio's off to the side! Maybe move them out of the room and begin building a second system for them. I will look at your pics again but i didnt notice any tubes. Move the Dyns out, corner load the one BIB a bit better and buy a tube amp... unless i missed it in the pic. Or, just enjoy as is! I hope they do get to stay in your home.
Godzilla
Tube amp
Thanks for the comments Zilla. You are right I dont have a tube amp but a SS that has a rather fat midrange that has been likened to a 'tube' sound (whatever that is and only having heard one in my life). However a mate has one being repaired and when it comes out of hospital it will be dragged straight over here to play through the BIBS.
Unfortunately I dont have another room available.....it will be a fight to the death so to speak. I think the Dynaudios will end up going and the BIB will transmogrify into a slightly smaller design: one of the frugal horn designs or plain Fostex recommended box perhaps. There are so many designs out there its difficult to know where to start, but it must not need corner loading. Regards, Andrew
Thanks for the comments Zilla. You are right I dont have a tube amp but a SS that has a rather fat midrange that has been likened to a 'tube' sound (whatever that is and only having heard one in my life). However a mate has one being repaired and when it comes out of hospital it will be dragged straight over here to play through the BIBS.
Unfortunately I dont have another room available.....it will be a fight to the death so to speak. I think the Dynaudios will end up going and the BIB will transmogrify into a slightly smaller design: one of the frugal horn designs or plain Fostex recommended box perhaps. There are so many designs out there its difficult to know where to start, but it must not need corner loading. Regards, Andrew
208/T90A BIB with Different Amps
One of the nights this week, I put on a CD. I went with RCA Victor Van Cliburn Collection of 4 of Beethoven's Sonatas because every one was sleeping in my house. It was a grand musical experience! I thought my old pipes did pretty good with a piano, but with the BIB's it sounded like the Steinway Grand was at my feet with the lid open, not the very small old piano in my bedroom. I did not feel any inclination to move the speakers or adjust anything. I just could not believe how good it was. I was not bored at any time, and the music penatrated my soul, as happens once in awhile.
Yesterday, I finally got around to trying the BIB's with my Sonic Impact amp. I did the basic mod to the SI some time ago of replacing the "bass limiting caps" with a pair of Audio Cap Thetas and bridging a couple resistors. The mod was VERY worthwhile, but I had not used it for many moons, since one of my bosses gave me a Cary Rocket 88 for some work I had done. At first the SI sounded "raw" and much less "refined," but once it got warmed up a bit, it was REALLY amazing. I could go on, but I will try to be short. I put the Cary back in, but am glad I have the cheap SI. Though its bass is not as deep, it is MUCH faster. Also the treble sounded really rolled off when I put the Cary back in. I guess I love them both, but it made me realize that if I was trying to finalize certain things about my BIB's that the amp could influence a lot of things (i.e. speaker placement, cap values, resistence etc). I started moveing the BIB's around again, and realized that I had made the with the Cary sound more like what it sounded like with the SI.
I am curious what people who have tried various amps with these speakers think the ultimate match for the BIBs would be. I would really like to try a bottlehead amp, but don't know if I should save for the Paramount, or try the S.E.X. amp.
7/10ths, are you going to VSAC? I have never gone, but may try to at least go for one day.
Sincerely,
Benjamin
One of the nights this week, I put on a CD. I went with RCA Victor Van Cliburn Collection of 4 of Beethoven's Sonatas because every one was sleeping in my house. It was a grand musical experience! I thought my old pipes did pretty good with a piano, but with the BIB's it sounded like the Steinway Grand was at my feet with the lid open, not the very small old piano in my bedroom. I did not feel any inclination to move the speakers or adjust anything. I just could not believe how good it was. I was not bored at any time, and the music penatrated my soul, as happens once in awhile.
Yesterday, I finally got around to trying the BIB's with my Sonic Impact amp. I did the basic mod to the SI some time ago of replacing the "bass limiting caps" with a pair of Audio Cap Thetas and bridging a couple resistors. The mod was VERY worthwhile, but I had not used it for many moons, since one of my bosses gave me a Cary Rocket 88 for some work I had done. At first the SI sounded "raw" and much less "refined," but once it got warmed up a bit, it was REALLY amazing. I could go on, but I will try to be short. I put the Cary back in, but am glad I have the cheap SI. Though its bass is not as deep, it is MUCH faster. Also the treble sounded really rolled off when I put the Cary back in. I guess I love them both, but it made me realize that if I was trying to finalize certain things about my BIB's that the amp could influence a lot of things (i.e. speaker placement, cap values, resistence etc). I started moveing the BIB's around again, and realized that I had made the with the Cary sound more like what it sounded like with the SI.
I am curious what people who have tried various amps with these speakers think the ultimate match for the BIBs would be. I would really like to try a bottlehead amp, but don't know if I should save for the Paramount, or try the S.E.X. amp.
7/10ths, are you going to VSAC? I have never gone, but may try to at least go for one day.
Sincerely,
Benjamin
My choice of amps is the $130 SI Super T-amp. It has all of the proper mods built in and at least half-way decent banana and RCA jacks. There are better amps, but not by much. I use this amp to drive Lowther DX2's and various FE series drivers. Since I have gone to a computer front end, I don't need any filters or series resistors. A few clicks on the equalizer and all is well.
Bob
Bob
Thanx
I thank all of you guys! Much to investigate, and much to think about!
7/10ths, That would be cool. You could try my Cary Rocket 88 too, but I live in Yakima. I still don't know if I will go to VSAC. A great guy, and audiophile that I sometimes work for ordered the materials so I could build the BIBs. I have worked some of it off, and given him a little, but I wanted to have him paid in full before I spend any more money on my audio greed. I have not ruled out doing the one day thing on the Saturday, however.
Sincerely,
Benjamin
I thank all of you guys! Much to investigate, and much to think about!
7/10ths, That would be cool. You could try my Cary Rocket 88 too, but I live in Yakima. I still don't know if I will go to VSAC. A great guy, and audiophile that I sometimes work for ordered the materials so I could build the BIBs. I have worked some of it off, and given him a little, but I wanted to have him paid in full before I spend any more money on my audio greed. I have not ruled out doing the one day thing on the Saturday, however.
Sincerely,
Benjamin
gotta keep the bib thread going
No posts in here for a few days.
I'm planning my next bib for the FE127e. I'm pleased with the
one I made but there is a small tweak needed in the cabinet.
I found that flush mounting the driver reduced the depth to the point where the driver wouldn't mount.
So at the divider I want to put a spacer-- just 3/4 scrap-- to move the divider back far enough to avoid any rebuild dilemmas.
I had to take my bib apart and fuss with the front baffle and re-glue everything. The result with flush mount is very pleasing. And I trimmed out the front baffle to make it look more like furniture.
While I can't imagine that not having a pointy peak is going change much (it's stuffed tight above the driver), is there any opinion on this?
No posts in here for a few days.
I'm planning my next bib for the FE127e. I'm pleased with the
one I made but there is a small tweak needed in the cabinet.
I found that flush mounting the driver reduced the depth to the point where the driver wouldn't mount.
So at the divider I want to put a spacer-- just 3/4 scrap-- to move the divider back far enough to avoid any rebuild dilemmas.
I had to take my bib apart and fuss with the front baffle and re-glue everything. The result with flush mount is very pleasing. And I trimmed out the front baffle to make it look more like furniture.
While I can't imagine that not having a pointy peak is going change much (it's stuffed tight above the driver), is there any opinion on this?
Stuffing or not, it will increase (the Q of) the already theoretically deep 3rd harmonic dip along with all its harmonics, which should be audible, though don't have clue whether it will be better/worse or just different sounding in-room, so Caveat Emptor.
Anyway, that's a lot of work, I would either just hog out the existing driver cutout and add a false baffle to mount the driver or cut a clearance hole in the internal baffle and make a cover out of some 1/4" BB ply or similar.
GM
Anyway, that's a lot of work, I would either just hog out the existing driver cutout and add a false baffle to mount the driver or cut a clearance hole in the internal baffle and make a cover out of some 1/4" BB ply or similar.
GM
This is not the rebuild. I am starting fresh on a second bib.
Don't know about the harmonics. I never play at high volumes.
And I don't want to double up the front. I tried a suprabaffle
on the old bib and wound up taking it off.
This mod is done with cheap materials and I think it's worth trying.
ABC measurments will be the same. I'll have to adjust the
depth a bit for area.
6 3/4 in width to match what I have.
Don't know about the harmonics. I never play at high volumes.
And I don't want to double up the front. I tried a suprabaffle
on the old bib and wound up taking it off.
This mod is done with cheap materials and I think it's worth trying.
ABC measurments will be the same. I'll have to adjust the
depth a bit for area.
6 3/4 in width to match what I have.
loninappleton said:
I am making my own followup here with a variant on the info above.
If a double baffle front is used (and I manage to get the hole,
flush mount and chamfer done without error so I don't need the extra piece) how does the extra depth effect the BLH?
If, as I have previously done, the outer baffle is made to the
driver cutout diameter and chamfered and then the inner baffle is cut either the same or to the next largest hole size and chamfered
how does this wave guide act with the horn? Which is better-- less wave guide (narrower wave path) or more wave guide (expanding rear wave path?)
All I can say is that this effect using a suprabaffle on a BIB in my initial outing with that style did not give a desired effect: good soundstage etc.
Maybe GM can help with the theory on this.
This baffle would not be an issue if the driver fit right and had clearance with the use of flush mounting.