Larry, do you have any info on your cabinet design?
I like the looks of your cabinet and would like something rear ported
Under construction, Fane 12" 250 TC.
Here are the original. Fane 12-250TC Full Range Speaker - Page 2 - HiFi Subjectivist | Audio Forum | NVA User Group
Here are the original. Fane 12-250TC Full Range Speaker - Page 2 - HiFi Subjectivist | Audio Forum | NVA User Group
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Yea, big center.
Qtc .6 sealed, but it gets driver up closer to tv.
Ideally it would have been closer to the top of the tv.
Qtc .6 sealed, but it gets driver up closer to tv.
Ideally it would have been closer to the top of the tv.
Got it.
Might as well answer your question here. We have not been able to make flat-paks for some 2 years now. I only have left-overs.
And it would be scary to pay to ship a 4 ft3 box, even as a flat-pak from Canada to the US.
Sorry. I’ll happily offer design suggestions.
dave
Might as well answer your question here. We have not been able to make flat-paks for some 2 years now. I only have left-overs.
And it would be scary to pay to ship a 4 ft3 box, even as a flat-pak from Canada to the US.
Sorry. I’ll happily offer design suggestions.
dave
I'd love to see some flat paks for sale here in the US for full range drivers.
I know if they did flat paks with full range drivers, maybe even notch and / or baffle step filters, more full range drivers would sell through parts express.
Maybe a mltl kit (for an 8" tang band 2145) for $200.
I bet they'd sell a hundred or more.
I know if they did flat paks with full range drivers, maybe even notch and / or baffle step filters, more full range drivers would sell through parts express.
Maybe a mltl kit (for an 8" tang band 2145) for $200.
I bet they'd sell a hundred or more.
Please,i want to ask a question about the inner for this box.
What to believe,is this ok or i must cut an oval single hole?
Box is for the Fane 12'' 250TC.
What to believe,is this ok or i must cut an oval single hole?
Box is for the Fane 12'' 250TC.
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This should be fine. Some people will argue that you should use holes of different sizes and an irregular pattern to avoid resonances in the airflow, but in my experience unless you are building a ported sub where there is really a *lot* of airflow, it doesn't make any difference. One thing I do try to avoid is locating the brace at a plane of symmetry within the cabinet. So instead of putting it halfway down the cabinet, make it offset a bit in one direction. Placing the brace exactly in the middle will encourage harmonics in both the air pressure and in surface vibrations by putting a node right in the middle.
Thanks,accidentally bracing isn't in the center of the cabinet!
It is closest to the bottom but how can i sure that didn't affect the sound.😕
Thanks Cal Weldon, but what is better, a cabinet with a bracing or without? 🙂
Typically, pushing the potential panel resonances up in freuency (with braces) where they are much harder to excite is a good thing. But it can go wrong, and i have seen many boxes not optimally braced… in particular you often see this guideline broken:
The aspect ratio of the subpanels defined by the brace should be higher than the aspect ratio of the panel being subdivided — and the ratios should be different (ie off centre brace).
dave
The aspect ratio of the subpanels defined by the brace should be higher than the aspect ratio of the panel being subdivided — and the ratios should be different (ie off centre brace).
dave
Just finished up my first pair of DIY speakers. After lots of searching I decided on Dayton RS100 4 ohm drivers mounted in Cyburg Needle (folded Voigt pipe) type cabinets. Instead of using MDF i went with BB/BB Baltic Birch plywood for strength, durability, and i wanted to attempt applying a decent looking finish to it without having to veneer the cabinet.
Everything was glued up using Titebond 3 and a ton of nearly invisible nails from my new 23 gauge pinner. Once assembled, sanded, and edges rounded over with my router came mission impossible... achieve a dark finish on baltic birch plywood that didn't look like sh*t.
I started the process with a wash coat of dewaxed shellac to bring out the birch grain a bit and to keep blotching to a minimum, sanded that back, then sprayed multiple coats of Trans-Tint dark walnut dye mixed in 190 proof everclear (since the communists banned denatured alcohol in California... like they already did with Naptha, Mineral Spirits, MEK, Benzine, and pretty much every other solvent except Acetone) until i got a nice even dark color. I had tested wiping on the dye but it came out horribly uneven. And for the final finish, I used an Ox Hair brush and applied a half dozen coats of General Finishes Arm-R-Seal oil based varnish. This is a proper Urethane Varnish which becomes a lot harder and more durable than big box store varnish like Varathane or Minwax. It also buffs out real nice once its cured.
Here is a work in progress photo and another of it nearly done. The only thing left to do is buff out the varnish in about a week using a felt pad on my dual action polisher with a bit of rottenstone. Then some furniture wax.
How do they sound you might ask? Well... i've always been highly skeptical of small driver speakers being able to sound good so my expectations were definitely somewhat subdued. Even so, after about an hour of listening to them, i'm absolutely baffled (excuse the pun) at how good they sound. I expected them to have good mids and highs, but it actually hits some respectable lower frequencies too. This whole project was initiated after watching the "worlds second best speakers" from Tech Ingredients on youtube, but i obviously didn't want to dive in for a full sized pair without my own personal proof of concept. I think ill be doing some full sized next.
Tomorrow i'm going to run some measurements on them and see how their frequency response is.
Everything was glued up using Titebond 3 and a ton of nearly invisible nails from my new 23 gauge pinner. Once assembled, sanded, and edges rounded over with my router came mission impossible... achieve a dark finish on baltic birch plywood that didn't look like sh*t.
I started the process with a wash coat of dewaxed shellac to bring out the birch grain a bit and to keep blotching to a minimum, sanded that back, then sprayed multiple coats of Trans-Tint dark walnut dye mixed in 190 proof everclear (since the communists banned denatured alcohol in California... like they already did with Naptha, Mineral Spirits, MEK, Benzine, and pretty much every other solvent except Acetone) until i got a nice even dark color. I had tested wiping on the dye but it came out horribly uneven. And for the final finish, I used an Ox Hair brush and applied a half dozen coats of General Finishes Arm-R-Seal oil based varnish. This is a proper Urethane Varnish which becomes a lot harder and more durable than big box store varnish like Varathane or Minwax. It also buffs out real nice once its cured.
Here is a work in progress photo and another of it nearly done. The only thing left to do is buff out the varnish in about a week using a felt pad on my dual action polisher with a bit of rottenstone. Then some furniture wax.
How do they sound you might ask? Well... i've always been highly skeptical of small driver speakers being able to sound good so my expectations were definitely somewhat subdued. Even so, after about an hour of listening to them, i'm absolutely baffled (excuse the pun) at how good they sound. I expected them to have good mids and highs, but it actually hits some respectable lower frequencies too. This whole project was initiated after watching the "worlds second best speakers" from Tech Ingredients on youtube, but i obviously didn't want to dive in for a full sized pair without my own personal proof of concept. I think ill be doing some full sized next.
Tomorrow i'm going to run some measurements on them and see how their frequency response is.
