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#391 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Portugal
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Is the Karlson design suitable for subwoofer applications?
Miguel |
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#392 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Chamblee, Ga.
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Being basially a bandpass design, it is especially well suited for sub duty IF a suitable driver is used and is made large enough. At a glance, an Avalanche 15" in ~9.2ft^3 net looks good to below audibility.
GM
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Loud is Beautiful if it's Clean! As always though, the usual disclaimers apply to this post's contents. |
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#393 |
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frugal-phile(tm)
diyAudio Moderator
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Today someone asked if my FE103/40-1197 phase plugs would fit into the FE127.
So i was oblidged to do a dustcapectomy... after a bit of a struggle getting some errant bits of dust cap out of the gap.... The FE127 has quite long voice coil that extends quite a bit beyond the apex of the cone. The 103/1197 phase plug is the right diameter but i think needs about 9-10mm more "shoulder". It was interesting to see some ripples in the out-of-the-box impedance curve disappeared with the dust cap removal (some came back with the too short phase plug)... dave
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community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com, frugal-phile.com ........ commercial site planet10-HiFi p10-hifi forum here at diyA |
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#394 |
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frugal-phile(tm)
diyAudio Moderator
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dotted line is with no dust cap... fresh out the box
dave
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community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com, frugal-phile.com ........ commercial site planet10-HiFi p10-hifi forum here at diyA |
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#395 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Calgary on the Bow
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Cool Work Dave: could you do a couple of other plugs for comparrison? I was thinking about a short cylinder with a large enough diameter to mostly fill the voice coil former and then mount a sphere on the end about the size of glass marble the kind we used to call "boulders" (smaller than a ping pong ball). Also could you go to your local hardware store and get one of those miniture spot lights with the mini base? They look kind of like a flat door knob. Don't know if you ever saw but Beauhorn use a shape like that in one of thier Lowther horns. Would be cool to see what they do to the plots as well as to the precieved quality of the drivers top end. The fe127e could use a bit more sparkle in the top end. Best regards Moray James.
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moray james |
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#396 |
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frugal-phile(tm)
diyAudio Moderator
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Good ideas Moray... i'm always looking for found items that can be repurposed...
dave
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community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com, frugal-phile.com ........ commercial site planet10-HiFi p10-hifi forum here at diyA |
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#397 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Calgary
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Apologies in advance for not reading all the pages in this thread, but would it be possible for someone to summarize the status? I'm interested in this as a someday project, but after scrolling back many pages I'm not sure where it's at. Has a driver been settled on yet?
I'm thinking about a FR project, particularly after an article in the latest audioXpress using a Fostex FE103. The author at the end mentions another design that I'll have to look into. PaulB p.s. Hi Moray, that was you I talked to on the phone a few months back, right? How are things? Bow thawed out yet (don't get down there much)? |
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#398 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Calgary on the Bow
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Hey Paul: you are close at hand so if you would like you can come over and have a listen to what I have veen doing with the Fostex fe126e as well as the fe166e. I also have a set of fe207e's in a Martin King MLTL cabinet you can listen to. Have not yet got the JLH amp boards installed into the case but soon I hope. Best regards Moray James.
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moray james |
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#399 |
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frugal-phile(tm)
diyAudio Moderator
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Since Chris sold his FE108ES B-Horns, and is holding off on the FE168ES, we decided that for the interim it would be a good idea to implement the straight bi-pole so he has something to listen too...
we did a few mods to the existing v0.2 to accomodate the particular situation, here is the plan... called v0.3cb. Changes/implementation details: 1/ aspect ratio is slightly changed to make them narrower & deeper. 2/ sides extended to meet the floor (ie built-in stand) 3/ ported out the bottom 4/ port moved "outside" the box, ends flared slightly, length increased a bit to compensate (and convienently the same as 3 stacked pieces of 3/4" material) Will be built with BB + MDF for the base & the extra bottom thickness (choosen for its extra mass to lower the centre of gravity) dave
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community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com, frugal-phile.com ........ commercial site planet10-HiFi p10-hifi forum here at diyA |
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#400 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Wylie, Texas
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I agree with PaulB, would someone like to suggest a reference driver at least? Maybe a mid-size one that provides a ballance between bass and highs, and is not too expense. Something that would be a good starting point for those of us that have not built a single driver fullrange?
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