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For those who are interested in the AN15 I offer a little diversion -
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full-range/217893-bigun-audio-nirvana-super-15-a.html
of course, my journey with this driver is not finished yet.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full-range/217893-bigun-audio-nirvana-super-15-a.html
of course, my journey with this driver is not finished yet.
Thanks for the replies!
Regarding post # 10 (Scottmoose):
The hole in the bafle is 8.9 mm in diameter, without duct.
My amp has 4 and 8 ohms taps. Is connected with 8 ohms. Does it matter if I switch to 4 ohms?
Let's consider a "improve" as a better bass response(Step 1), a better balance in the medium frequencies(Step 2) and an increase in high frequency response(Step 3).
- Step 1: Large back-horn. I can change the configuration of my cabinets, but not the dimensions due to the physical space I have for them now. Any suggestions? Or may have the help of an active subwoofer.
- Step 2: I"ll add the proposed filter.
- Step 3: Maybe add a tweeter. I have at hand a pair of vintage SNAKE 4202 (brazilian made). Frequency response: 2.6 to 21 KHz (recomended crossover at 5 KHz - 18 db/ocatave); Sensitivity: 110 dB; Power of program music: 70 W. If this option is viable, what is the best cutting point in the crossover?
When I listen to CD´s with AN, the results are slightly better than vinyl. I'm still hitting the parameters of my DIY phono preamp.
When I connect the AN with my vintage Sansui receiver - 35 WRMS per channel - I have bass with a good level but not a enough highs.
Many thanks
Antonio
Regarding post # 10 (Scottmoose):
The hole in the bafle is 8.9 mm in diameter, without duct.
My amp has 4 and 8 ohms taps. Is connected with 8 ohms. Does it matter if I switch to 4 ohms?
Let's consider a "improve" as a better bass response(Step 1), a better balance in the medium frequencies(Step 2) and an increase in high frequency response(Step 3).
- Step 1: Large back-horn. I can change the configuration of my cabinets, but not the dimensions due to the physical space I have for them now. Any suggestions? Or may have the help of an active subwoofer.
- Step 2: I"ll add the proposed filter.
- Step 3: Maybe add a tweeter. I have at hand a pair of vintage SNAKE 4202 (brazilian made). Frequency response: 2.6 to 21 KHz (recomended crossover at 5 KHz - 18 db/ocatave); Sensitivity: 110 dB; Power of program music: 70 W. If this option is viable, what is the best cutting point in the crossover?
Yes, when I connect the amp with my vintage 3-way speakers 94 dB sentivity (?) - 12" woofer, I have more bass & good balance with medium/tweeter regulations, but the amp needs to work much harder to maintain the same level of volume. The problem is that I do not have physical space for these speakers in my living room, where are my tube amp.
When I listen to CD´s with AN, the results are slightly better than vinyl. I'm still hitting the parameters of my DIY phono preamp.
When I connect the AN with my vintage Sansui receiver - 35 WRMS per channel - I have bass with a good level but not a enough highs.
Many thanks
Antonio
Oh dear. The cabinet alignment is even worse than I thought (I assume you meant 89mm diameter rather than 8.9mm though 
)
Probably very little difference. You could try it, since it costs nothing.
1/ You don't have space for even a small back-horn suited to the AN if you can't change the overall dimensions. Not if you want to extract some bass from it anyway. A sub is likely going to be your best way forward.
2/ A shelving filter will help; it won't change the lousy box alignment (note that critique is predicated on the advertised T/S parameters & how they'd change with up to 4ohms series R from the output impedance of a SET or similar amp), but it will help rebalance the midband & HF.
3/ Pass. Depends on the filter design, the responses of the drivers on the baffle etc. I would suggest ignoring the top end for the moment & concentrate on getting the lower end and midband sorted out. The HF can be addressed later, since it will probably be a simpler fix.
) Probably very little difference. You could try it, since it costs nothing.
1/ You don't have space for even a small back-horn suited to the AN if you can't change the overall dimensions. Not if you want to extract some bass from it anyway. A sub is likely going to be your best way forward.
2/ A shelving filter will help; it won't change the lousy box alignment (note that critique is predicated on the advertised T/S parameters & how they'd change with up to 4ohms series R from the output impedance of a SET or similar amp), but it will help rebalance the midband & HF.
3/ Pass. Depends on the filter design, the responses of the drivers on the baffle etc. I would suggest ignoring the top end for the moment & concentrate on getting the lower end and midband sorted out. The HF can be addressed later, since it will probably be a simpler fix.
Hi Scottmoose,
Of course I made a mistake, I'm sorry ...! The hole is 89 mm, suggested in David Dicks project.
I´m noob in this subject, but I believe that the T/S AN parameters from AN are not correct, because I could not simulate any enclosure with them in WinISD beta.
I´ll concentrate on the suggestions you gave and see what happens.
I´m insisting on this project because it is a matter of personal satisfaction (or not ...).
Thank you!
Antonio
Of course I made a mistake, I'm sorry ...
! The hole is 89 mm, suggested in David Dicks project.I´m noob in this subject, but I believe that the T/S AN parameters from AN are not correct, because I could not simulate any enclosure with them in WinISD beta.
I´ll concentrate on the suggestions you gave and see what happens.
I´m insisting on this project because it is a matter of personal satisfaction (or not ...
).Thank you!
Antonio
Hi Antonio. that means you make some mistake. I've easely calculate bass reflex and BLH cabs for 6.5" and 8" AN's. Actually, i'm think qts ~0.18 is not best way for Bass reflex cabs.
I suspect Antonio isn't manually adjusting the vent length cabinet Fb to match. Be that as it may, it's still from the POV of reflex design a lousy alignment (no reflection on him), even if you factor in amplifier output impedance & some room effects. The AN Cast 8 as noted is really not well suited to reflex loading if you're wanting to coax some LF output from it (not without help anyway) given the low Q and moderate F0; you can get a reasonably behaved response with a smaller cabinet, but it's not going to get very low.
One problem is that the published effective radius is much too small, it should be 16.26 cm based on some other specs and why it recommended the ridiculously small 3.3 L cab.
Anyway to get whatever bass this driver has to offer, ideally it needs a Vb = Vas, Fb = Fs with a 3" dia. x ~1.88" long vent to get a T/S max flat alignment when its Qts = ~0.403, so around 12 ohms of series resistance [amp output impedance + wiring + resistor] is required based on published specs.
Your 43 L cab should be tuned to Fs since it's hooked up to a high output impedance amp, though judging by your lack of bass I assume its output impedance isn't high enough to flatten its response out, so once tuned to Fs, insert a cheap 25 ohm pot in series to find out how much added resistance is required to make the [mid] bass sound 'full', then replace it with a fixed non inductive resistor.
GM
Hmm, missed the edit 'window'..........
Normally, you hook it to a tap > than the driver's 'Re' or 8 ohms in this case, but no reason why you can't try it at 4 ohms. Some folks prefer it since it will 'tighten up' whatever bass there is, flattening out the response some at the expense of some loss of peak power.
GM
Normally, you hook it to a tap > than the driver's 'Re' or 8 ohms in this case, but no reason why you can't try it at 4 ohms. Some folks prefer it since it will 'tighten up' whatever bass there is, flattening out the response some at the expense of some loss of peak power.
GM
Hi GM,
Thanks for reply.
I have not done the tests recommended by Scottmoose (see posts # 10; 23 & 24).
I'm going to run this: "Try paralleling a 1.2mH inductor with a 3ohm resistor & place in series with the driver. You'll lose some sensitivity, but it should help rebalance things."
Question: Should your recommendation be made in conjunction with this?
Thanks,
Antonio
Thanks for reply.
I have not done the tests recommended by Scottmoose (see posts # 10; 23 & 24).
I'm going to run this: "Try paralleling a 1.2mH inductor with a 3ohm resistor & place in series with the driver. You'll lose some sensitivity, but it should help rebalance things."
Question: Should your recommendation be made in conjunction with this?
Thanks,
Antonio
John. diyAudio - View Profile: VictoriaGuy
We did that for the old stamped basket 10. If you have a current AN 10 it willnot be applicable.
I do remember digging out a chunk of 6" PVC pipe for John for the vents, can't remember the length
dave
Greets!
You're welcome!
Don't currently have the luxury of time to do much reading of threads, so usually just add by $0.2 worth and move on till I see a response.
Anyway, the pot tweak is a quick/easy way to dial in an unknown system response, but if there's enough info to choose an inductor, which usually cuts down the amount of total resistance needed, then the pot goes where the by-pass resistor is to find out how much is required to leave the right amount of HF unattenuated and of course if enough is known, then both can be figured out.
GM
Thanks for replying, Dave.
I just picked up a PM from Kevin and replied with the same info you've stated.
Stamped basket= different speaker
Diameter = 6" PVC pipe which you gave me (Thanks!)
Length= 11"
Cheers
John
hey Norm - 'classic" (with whizzer) cast frame? or cast frame (whizzerless "Classic"?) Karlsonator12 is nice with old stamped fame Super10 (qt~0.41, fs ~49) - little bit disjointed in the treble but that's AN's fault - not K. If I had any space whatsover I might set up the K'nator w. old Super10.
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