if someone pays premium prices for baltic birch or expensive materials and doesn't want to see screw heads once it's finished is there a viable work around to clamping in order to test and make changes?
and if a box reacts to clamps that much is it inert enough to be considered a proper enclosure?
Fair point about the quality of face veneers, and to be honest, I was referring to my own experience with my first prototypes of a few different designs that are often made with cheaper "shop grade" BB, which if successful are post veneered, so the filled screw holes aren't a major issue.
However, when you see some of the posted photos, I'd be surprised if the total mass of the clamps wasn't a significant fraction of the weight of the enclosures themselves, which I'd imagine in combination with the torque required to seal the enclosure without adhesives or gaskets would change the tuning of enclosure panel resonant frequencies.
Of course, that's entirely intuition on my part, and in addition to possibly being wrong about that, we're probably not on the same page as to the larger question of how practical or desirable it is to attempt to fabricate an "inert" enclosure, or whether failure to meet a vague standard of "enough" renders a design as improper.
However, when you see some of the posted photos, I'd be surprised if the total mass of the clamps wasn't a significant fraction of the weight of the enclosures themselves, which I'd imagine in combination with the torque required to seal the enclosure without adhesives or gaskets would change the tuning of enclosure panel resonant frequencies.
Of course, that's entirely intuition on my part, and in addition to possibly being wrong about that, we're probably not on the same page as to the larger question of how practical or desirable it is to attempt to fabricate an "inert" enclosure, or whether failure to meet a vague standard of "enough" renders a design as improper.
Thanks gents. I am indeed still running with clamps, and the redundant cavities are not filled yet.
Now I come to a dilemma - the quarter wave stub sounds interesting, but awkward to implement and tweak. I've had a look and it won't really fit into the cavity above the compression chamber. Also, I could be trying to fix something that might change once the cabinets are glued, but once they are glued it gets even harder to implement
I suppose the solution would be to screw both sides (they already have weatherstrip), stuff empty cavities and see where I am then.
Screw heads are not an issue as I will remove and fill once glued before veneering cabinets - the birch finish doesn't look all that great.
Now I come to a dilemma - the quarter wave stub sounds interesting, but awkward to implement and tweak. I've had a look and it won't really fit into the cavity above the compression chamber. Also, I could be trying to fix something that might change once the cabinets are glued, but once they are glued it gets even harder to implement
I suppose the solution would be to screw both sides (they already have weatherstrip), stuff empty cavities and see where I am then.
Screw heads are not an issue as I will remove and fill once glued before veneering cabinets - the birch finish doesn't look all that great.
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Yes, the qualify of face veneers on "BB" - particularly the Russian sourced 5x5s can vary quite significantly - one of the reasons I'd change a couple of years back to a US "domestic" 4x8 maple veneer faced multi-ply - the funny part is that according to the local distributor, the "platform core" is of "European" origin.
It should be noted that midbass is technicly 40-80 Hz. Your resonance is at the defined boundary between upper bass and lower midrange
At this frequency it is likely a box resonance of some sort. I would suspect a panel resonance or a leak somewhere.
Start out with a mechanics stethescope and listen to the panels (asmany as you can andallover the panel) with to see if you can locate it. A leak might be harder. Since you can't get at all the possible places it could be i hope you get lucky a filter is a band-aid.
dave
Hi
Sorry about the error in terminology - I didn't really know where the problem was lying at the time I wrote that.
I haven't yet invested in a stethescope, but with the cabinets screwed rather than clamped things seem a lot better. Some of the larger, unsupported areas can be felt to be vibrating a bit though.
I suspect things will improve again once properly glued, but before I commit to that I'm just wondering whether a bit of stiffening in certain areas would be worthwhile.
The back I can reinforce with external bracing, but I'm wondering whether there's any reason not to add a couple of internal braces (1 and 2 as shown in the side and rear views attached), to give a bit of support to the top edge of panel J.
Cheers!
Chris
Sorry about the error in terminology - I didn't really know where the problem was lying at the time I wrote that.
I haven't yet invested in a stethescope, but with the cabinets screwed rather than clamped things seem a lot better. Some of the larger, unsupported areas can be felt to be vibrating a bit though.
I suspect things will improve again once properly glued, but before I commit to that I'm just wondering whether a bit of stiffening in certain areas would be worthwhile.
The back I can reinforce with external bracing, but I'm wondering whether there's any reason not to add a couple of internal braces (1 and 2 as shown in the side and rear views attached), to give a bit of support to the top edge of panel J.
Cheers!
Chris
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