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Old 12th August 2012, 11:35 AM   #21
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I've only listened to it in it's cardboard packing box (so far from optimal) but it sounded very good just like that. Very natural on vocals, no harshness that I could detect for the short time I listened.

A very quick update. I did manage to get the power tools out for a short while this afternoon, but only managed to cut the top and bottom pieces. I've not yet done any of the rebating. Although I was hoping this project would be more like my p2p gainclone (which I finished in record time) it is starting to shape up to being more like my MTM's (which took about seven years)

From next weekend there is going to be a lot of time spent on preparing the new house for moving in, so unfortunately progress is probably going to be slow for a while. The upside is that the new place has a double garage so I have somewhere I can work and leave the tools out (currently I have to work on the balcony).

Tony.
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Old 31st December 2012, 10:01 AM   #22
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Well I finally got some time to do some woodworking today. Unfortunately not enough to get the first box done though. I have no idea where my circle jig is so I'm probably going to have to make a new one

I managed to do the rebating of the top bottom and rear baffle, and got the sides cut. I still have to do the front baffle rebates and speaker cutouts, and the very shallow rebates for the port baffle, and cut the port baffles themselves. But I guess progress is progress

Hopefully I will be able to get a few hours every now and then to get them finished. We bought a new house shortly after I started this project and that has been where all of the time has been going.

anyway a couple of pics. One showing the bits and the other showing the box mocked up. The rear baffle is not fitting exactly because the front one hasn't had it's 3mm rebate cut.

edit: Its slow going with just a router a jigsaw and a straight bit of MDF (for use as a fence) at your disposal. I'm sure it would be a LOT quicker if I had a router table

Tony.
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File Type: jpg sb_mockup.jpg (67.6 KB, 577 views)
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Last edited by wintermute; 31st December 2012 at 10:04 AM. Reason: add comment about tools or lack thereof.
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Old 1st January 2013, 05:54 AM   #23
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Well wonders never cease and I had quite a bit of time today to continue on All panels completed for one box, and all routing done except for the speaker cutout.

I had another look for my circle jig, but couldn't find it, so it looks like the next thing to do is to make a new one.

Pictures of the enclosure just sitting together, no glue as yet. The fit is not too bad. Had one slight problem with the port slot in the first side, was about 1mm too low, re-routed to have a loose fit on that side and adjusted the other. Also the rear baffle for some reason seems about 2mm too much on the rebate, I suspect the sides are slightly longer than they were supposed to be. Shouldn't be a problem once glued together though I may trim them down a small bit.

The 4 1/2 year old (who is now 5) is happy that some progress has been made. She said to me last night I had to keep working on it all night to get it finished She also recently said when I said something was going to take a while, "I hope that isn't going to take as long as my speakers, that will be forever"....

Tony.
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File Type: jpg DSC_1387.JPG (89.0 KB, 545 views)
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Old 2nd January 2013, 09:34 AM   #24
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OK So I made the circle jig yesterday, finished it about 8:30PM and had to clean up so didn't get a chance to test it until tonight (went back to work today).

Apart from operator stupidity* it worked well

Pics attached of the circle jig, the hole (demonstrating the operator stupidity*) and the speaker sitting in said hole.

It looks like I need to set the depth a little bit deeper for the rebate probably another 1mm, but the cutout size is perfect, both for the outer and the inner

I created a thread for the making of the circle jig here --> DIY Circle Jig . I probably should have done it as a blog post, but i'ts done now

*operator stupidity consisted of me carefully setting the depth of the cut to 6.5mm releasing the plunge lock, and then proceeding to removed the depth gauge from the router (which has been necessary when trimming the edges due to it fouling my fence). I then started to cut the outer rebate but thought that the router seemed to be going very deep. I stopped and checked and realized my stupidity. I reset the depth and this time left the depth gauge connected and did the rest of the hole at the specified depth Glad I was using a scrap bit of mdf for test purposes!

Tony.
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File Type: jpg DSC_1392.JPG (97.3 KB, 124 views)
File Type: jpg DSC_1394.JPG (134.9 KB, 116 views)
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Old 5th January 2013, 05:55 AM   #25
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So I have made a bit more progress today I've cut the hole in the front baffle for the driver for the fist box.

Now I have realised that I'm not sure what I am going to use to mount the driver, and that what I do decide on is going to have to go on the back of the baffle rather than be set into it, as there is only around 5mm thickness to work with I probably should have gone with a 16mm thick baffle. Oh well. I'll probably just epoxy some nuts onto the back after screwing in the bolts.

Also I remeasured and it looks like the problem is not with the sides being too long but with my rear baffle being 1mm too short. Stuffed up somewhere there. Not a big drama though the glue should hopefully fill it.

Tony.
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File Type: jpg DSC_1398.JPG (118.6 KB, 138 views)
File Type: jpg DSC_1400.JPG (77.6 KB, 145 views)
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Old 6th January 2013, 10:58 AM   #26
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I made another small advancement today. If I keep making small steps they might actually be finished! (I also find that posting helps motivate me to keep making progress)

I found some M4 caphead screws, that I had salvaged from a Fujitsu Mainframe that we decommed in the early 90's. I knew they would come in handy for something sometime I drilled the holes for the screws and checked that they lined up ok. When I was happy that they fit I took the speaker back out, and put the screws in, and used some kneadable epoxy to epoxy the nuts in place (after roughing up the MDF with a wood rasp to make sure the epoxy had something to grab on to).

Hopefully since these won't need a lot of torque it should be enough to hold the nuts in place.

Now all I need to do is find the terminals that I know are in a box somewhere, and install them in the rear baffle and start gluing!

Tony.
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File Type: jpg DSC_1402.JPG (110.2 KB, 155 views)
File Type: jpg DSC_1404.JPG (134.4 KB, 136 views)
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Old 6th January 2013, 01:12 PM   #27
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I know that's only a thinish baffle but those little drivers are surprisingly open on the rear side of the frame.
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Old 6th January 2013, 08:01 PM   #28
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Yes they have a very nice basket The thin baffle helps a lot though. I probably should have gone with the 16mm MDF for the front. The depth of the rebate is 7mm which only leaves 5mm thickness for the driver to mount through, which is a bit thin.

Certainly doesn't need any chamfering of the backside of the hole though

Tony.
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Old 20th January 2013, 02:17 AM   #29
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OK A little more progress on the worlds slowest speaker build

I've glued the top, bottom, sides and front baffle today. Drying as I type. I'm yet to find the speaker terminals that I'm going to use (some fairly ordinary ones from futurelec I bought before but decided weren't good enough form my MTM's).

Once I've found those I should be able to do the rear baffle as well and can do a listening test to one speaker, and possibly some objective measurements (new house and not sure whether the study where the computer is is suitable for measurements).

Anyway here are the obligatory pictures. The bit of mdf sticking out the port was there to ensure that the port baffle was in the right place since I mucked up the rebate on one of the sides.

Tony.
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File Type: jpg DSC_1410.JPG (138.1 KB, 74 views)
File Type: jpg DSC_1411.JPG (148.5 KB, 93 views)
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Old 20th January 2013, 04:06 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wintermute View Post

the worlds slowest speaker build
You'll need to stretch it out another have decade -- at least

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