I Have just received my 7.3's from Dave at Planet 10 and already have them in their first set of boxes. I put them in the milli size ken's just because of the easy build. I plan to build a couple of enclosure for them to get a feel for what they are capable of. This leads me to my present question. As i move through the different enclosures like the dMark Ken, Pensil, and maybe Maeshowe, what change you I expect. Am I correct that as I move up in size, that i will exchange some detail and finesse for low end and larger presentation. Does it seem prudent to skip the Pensil and build the dMark Ken and the Maeshowe. In the millisize, i am wanting more low end for my listening situation, but that is not surprising. They have wonderful detail and imaging, but are a bit thin. DO not take this as a comment on the drivers. I believe it is obvious this is cabinet related.
It looks like you've already got a pretty good handle on what sonic differences to expect.
I'd say which enclosure(s) to experiment with is very much room dependent. The full blown "prime" dMark Ken is not the easiest build of those named, and while you'd probably find they have the advantage of more finesse and articulation from the lower mid bass on down, retain the detail and have even better imaging and micro-dynamics than the millies, the Pensils will outperform them in the LF weight and impact department. For many folks, particularly those with larger spaces, the "kens" would likely need bass augmentation, and unless said woofer(s) are built as stands, those as well.
That said, if you have space for the required breathing room go directly to the Maeshowe. More material / larger panels etc, but actually an easier build than the "kens"
what am I saying, build em all and auction or gift away any that you don't like
milliSize will be naturally limited in extension due to size. Yours is likely the 1st of the new milliSized box for the A7.3, i'd be interested to see pictures, an eval of how low it does go, and what it may give up in midrange clarity (the smaller boxes seem to be a bit more closed in than the full-size miniOnken)
The full-size miniOnken is designed with maximum finese in mind, the bass falls where it does (althou does do well for the generally small size of the box), It is suggested that they eventually gain a woofer (1 per side) to become truly full-range. Relieving the miniOnken of having to carry bass-load further increase its finese & DDR.
dave
The full-size miniOnken is designed with maximum finese in mind, the bass falls where it does (althou does do well for the generally small size of the box), It is suggested that they eventually gain a woofer (1 per side) to become truly full-range. Relieving the miniOnken of having to carry bass-load further increase its finese & DDR.
dave
Will post pics tonight. I routed for the outer ring and realized after attaching the drivers, that there is no lip or anything to keep the rings compressed against the driver flange and baffle. Exactly how does the thing stay on? I have an 1/8" ring around the outside of the drivers where the route is too large as a result. THe highs are very clear, but no balance as the midbass and LF is lacking. If you listen near field (1m), things improve. As they stand now, I would say they are crystal clear, but thin sounding. As stated above, this is a reflection on the enclosure and the fact that they are more suited for a near field/small room setup. Would make wonderful computer moniters. I will build the dMark ken's next. They should give me a better idea of the driver. My room is 15 x 16, so they should be well sized. I am definitely having to adjust to the low end response when compared to the 10.2, but this is to be expected, especially considering I have not heard them in a large enclosure. Maybe you and Scott willl let me beta test your Maeshowe idea Maybe it will not be necessary after hearing them in the dMark Ken's. One thing that is certain, they do not need any high end support. I have yet to really push them on denser music, but the highs are more extended and cleaner with less directivity than the 10.2's. I just hope that in the proper enclosure, they will have the soulful sound of voices that the 10.2's offer. More later.
Here is the pic. You can see the extra space from the route. I will tape up the driver edges and fill in with wood putty or something to make them seemless. Sand them down. Primer. Coat of Black Hammer Mill finish. Viola! May tru to get the dMark Ken's finished before vacation next week.
Dave,
If I pair the miniOnkens with a woofer enclosure, will i need the side ports anymore or is dependent on where i cross them?
Dave,
If I pair the miniOnkens with a woofer enclosure, will i need the side ports anymore or is dependent on where i cross them?
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2 part epoxy (you don't need much. A permanent fixation.
Already well tested.
That and more 3d soundstage should be expected.
dave
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It is dependent on where you cross... if you cross higher than 150 Hz or so, i'd go with an aperiodic midrange TL.
dave
Depending on how they do in miniOnkens, I may get the plans for the Maeshowe from Scott or just skip it and go to the F.A.S.T. setup. Not really interested in the extra flange if it is not necessary. I think I may try the miniO's with 18mm for the baffle and 15mm everywhere else. I remember reading about a guy who tested multiple thicknesses for enclosures and liked 18mm for front( maybe back) and 15mm everywhere else.
That is what we typically do. We used to do 12 + 18, but decided to standardize on as much 15mm as possible to drive plywood cost down
dave
You pay a big size penalty for trying to hit the besel. I'd suggest 6-10 litres with a good helping of UltraTouch (which will make the box seem bigger).
Personally i'd do 9 litres because i could always use that volume to kludge it into a dMar-Ken 7.3 derivative. Or make a CGR dMar-Ken7.3 and stuff the vent.
dave
Personally i'd do 9 litres because i could always use that volume to kludge it into a dMar-Ken 7.3 derivative. Or make a CGR dMar-Ken7.3 and stuff the vent.
dave
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