hello,
i am going to build my first fullrange speaker. have decided on the el70/chp70. now i need to find amplification for the mar-kel70 or br-chp70 in a nearfield/desktop situation.
am looking for correct tonality, some headroom + no clipping. i need amplification and "dac capability" (pc-speaker). usb in or optical in(prefered).
so far, i've found the topping tp30
as far as i understand, mark k. ataudioheuristics.org tested the unit with ok results. i have very little comprehension of the graphs and charts.
would the topping tp30 be "potent" enough for the mar-kel70/br-chp70?
are there better solutions in that price range?
thank you for your help,
daniel
i am going to build my first fullrange speaker. have decided on the el70/chp70. now i need to find amplification for the mar-kel70 or br-chp70 in a nearfield/desktop situation.
am looking for correct tonality, some headroom + no clipping. i need amplification and "dac capability" (pc-speaker). usb in or optical in(prefered).
so far, i've found the topping tp30
as far as i understand, mark k. ataudioheuristics.org tested the unit with ok results. i have very little comprehension of the graphs and charts.
would the topping tp30 be "potent" enough for the mar-kel70/br-chp70?
are there better solutions in that price range?
thank you for your help,
daniel
With spl in the mid 80's I'd think 15 watt is too little. while you'll be able to play "normal" (whatever that is) you'll soon miss the extra headroom. Go for the Dayton, the 20 watt Hlly, or better yet one of the Virtue amps (yes, they really are worth every penny).
The more powerful chipsets simple have more authority in the sound, better bass and of course the ability to play louder.
The more powerful chipsets simple have more authority in the sound, better bass and of course the ability to play louder.
For near field I used a 2020 amp with Fostex from 103's, 126's and 127's. I also used it to drive Boston Acoustic A200's and Dahlquist M905's at one point and there was plenty of power at hand for a larger room even......it doesn't take much "good" power to drive some speakers.
A 2024 should sound quite nice!
A 2024 should sound quite nice!
The $99 Dayton sounds plenty powerful to me... but so does the cheaper one. I've not turned the volume past halfway on the more expensive amp... the cheaper one i have maxed out on more than one occasion. Have not critically listened to them against one another but both sound very good to me. Both sound better than my 200 watt Onkyo solid state. Those T-amps are amazing sounding little things!
I also have a nice Cary Audio tube amp that sounds great... it produces a deeper image than the T-amps. But i could live with either (and do!) enjoying them with different speakers that I have swapped around over the years.
If i didn't already own the Cary (i've had it over 10 years... longer than any other piece of gear) i'd never have bought it after hearing the T-amps... the Cary's are better but the difference for the amount of money is not justified.
All of the Fostex drivers i have on hand sound excellent with the T-amps.
I also have a nice Cary Audio tube amp that sounds great... it produces a deeper image than the T-amps. But i could live with either (and do!) enjoying them with different speakers that I have swapped around over the years.
If i didn't already own the Cary (i've had it over 10 years... longer than any other piece of gear) i'd never have bought it after hearing the T-amps... the Cary's are better but the difference for the amount of money is not justified.
All of the Fostex drivers i have on hand sound excellent with the T-amps.
thank you for the input!
so for near field the 10watt (before distortion becomes great) would be sufficient?
i'm open to other options dac needs to be included though. especially amps with more power...
any thoughts on the review by mark k.?
my first thought is that $100 would be reasonable for all the DIY components, but is a silly good price for an assembled unit
my only experience with a T-amp including USB receiver is the Kingrex T-20U - quite decent little rig, but several times this cost.
Indeed with the SPL in the mid '80s, as noted by Squeak, I think you'll want a more powerful amplifier.
It might work, especially in a small room, but go for a beefier amp. It's worth it. Especially as you can get something that sounds even better for not much more ...
What you want is an amplifier based on the Tripath TK2050 chipset. Not only will the this chipset take 24V and up, giving you a comfortable measure of extra power, it also sounds way way better than the TA2021B and the TA2020 chips in the usual 12V T-Amps. Check out the distortion specs - the chipset has an actual noise level of 0.007% THD+N at high power! In-amp! (Here are some measurements from 41Hz.com of a similar type of Tripath to support the claim.)
Here is a link to a listening test between a 41Hz Truepath and some high-end amps: Mark Levinson, Bryston, Pass Labs. It is quite subjective and you can't exclude that it is somewhat biased
But these amps are really really really really good. And while the Truepath doesn't have the TK2050 chipset, it is very comparable, with more of a difference in 'flavor' than in audio quality per se.
If you want a ready-built amplifier, have a look at the Virtue amps. If you want a cheap and effective board that you can easily drop in a case, have a look at the Hifimediy T1. If you're comfortable with a kit, I can enthusiastically recommend the 41Hz Amp4 and 41Hz Amp11.
Not to sound arrogant, but I will allow myself to recommend a higher-powered Tripath amp with some confidence, in your case. I've tried the standard 12V-type Tripath stuff, e.g. 41Hz Amp6, as well as higher-powered TK2050 amps like Amp4 and Amp11. I have also tried speakers ranging from mid-80s dB/W to up above 90dB/W. You really want to be above 90dB for the 12V Tripaths. And as the TK2050 chipset sounds significantly better you want it in all cases anyway.
(EDIT: I've seen pictures from the inside of the Dayton amps, and I didn't really like what I saw Sure Electronics also make an amp board with the TK2050 chipset, and I would be cautious of them - for instance they get way too hot, and I think it's because it's just not a good implementation. I'm only extrapolating from what I read in some threads on them, haven't tried them myself, so they might very well be great!)
It might work, especially in a small room, but go for a beefier amp. It's worth it. Especially as you can get something that sounds even better for not much more ...
What you want is an amplifier based on the Tripath TK2050 chipset. Not only will the this chipset take 24V and up, giving you a comfortable measure of extra power, it also sounds way way better than the TA2021B and the TA2020 chips in the usual 12V T-Amps. Check out the distortion specs - the chipset has an actual noise level of 0.007% THD+N at high power! In-amp! (Here are some measurements from 41Hz.com of a similar type of Tripath to support the claim.)
Here is a link to a listening test between a 41Hz Truepath and some high-end amps: Mark Levinson, Bryston, Pass Labs. It is quite subjective and you can't exclude that it is somewhat biased
But these amps are really really really really good. And while the Truepath doesn't have the TK2050 chipset, it is very comparable, with more of a difference in 'flavor' than in audio quality per se.If you want a ready-built amplifier, have a look at the Virtue amps. If you want a cheap and effective board that you can easily drop in a case, have a look at the Hifimediy T1. If you're comfortable with a kit, I can enthusiastically recommend the 41Hz Amp4 and 41Hz Amp11.
Not to sound arrogant, but I will allow myself to recommend a higher-powered Tripath amp with some confidence, in your case. I've tried the standard 12V-type Tripath stuff, e.g. 41Hz Amp6, as well as higher-powered TK2050 amps like Amp4 and Amp11. I have also tried speakers ranging from mid-80s dB/W to up above 90dB/W. You really want to be above 90dB for the 12V Tripaths. And as the TK2050 chipset sounds significantly better you want it in all cases anyway.
(EDIT: I've seen pictures from the inside of the Dayton amps, and I didn't really like what I saw
Sure Electronics also make an amp board with the TK2050 chipset, and I would be cautious of them - for instance they get way too hot, and I think it's because it's just not a good implementation. I'm only extrapolating from what I read in some threads on them, haven't tried them myself, so they might very well be great!)
Last edited:
Well I think the 2050 simply is hot running. The Virtue amps have a heatpipe coupled to the thick alu case to take care of the heat.
The HLLY TAMP90 is a cheaper alternative, with an excellent power supply already build in (on the small Virtues you need to find your own when you have run it in with the cheapish one supplied). I wouldn't worry to much about the DAC. There are at least a couple of cheap alternatives out there with that are a step over the one build in to your computer. Like this on or this one.
The HLLY TAMP90 is a cheaper alternative, with an excellent power supply already build in (on the small Virtues you need to find your own when you have run it in with the cheapish one supplied). I wouldn't worry to much about the DAC. There are at least a couple of cheap alternatives out there with that are a step over the one build in to your computer. Like this on or this one.
That is interesting. I'll admit again that I don't have the hands-on experience to disqualify the Sure based on heat, but it did sound strange. Especially because I've run Amp11's without any heatsinks for extended periods of time, at up to 24V into 4 Ohm loads! That's not a hot chip as I see it
wow, so much info + ideas.
thank you guys!
i am only looking in the $100-150 price range, including dac!
the virtu amps look yummy, but don't fit in the price range.
the external dacs are, afaiu, at least $100 excluding the amp...
the hifimediy t1 has a strange description:
"INFO:
The T1 amp deploys the sta508 as output chip ...
Some of the boards in stock have an on/off switch. However it is adviced not to use this switch, but leave it in the on posistion and turn amp on/off with external power supply. This is because the relay controling this switch can get stuck....
that leaves me feeling like the boards/parts are some what inferrior
hm, where does this leave me?
am still hoping for a solution!
thank you guys!
i am only looking in the $100-150 price range, including dac!
the virtu amps look yummy, but don't fit in the price range.
the external dacs are, afaiu, at least $100 excluding the amp...
the hifimediy t1 has a strange description:
"INFO:
The T1 amp deploys the sta508 as output chip ...
Some of the boards in stock have an on/off switch. However it is adviced not to use this switch, but leave it in the on posistion and turn amp on/off with external power supply. This is because the relay controling this switch can get stuck....
that leaves me feeling like the boards/parts are some what inferrior
hm, where does this leave me?
am still hoping for a solution!
the hifimediy t1 has a strange description:
"INFO:
The T1 amp deploys the sta508 as output chip ...
Some of the boards in stock have an on/off switch. However it is adviced not to use this switch, but leave it in the on posistion and turn amp on/off with external power supply. This is because the relay controling this switch can get stuck....
that leaves me feeling like the boards/parts are some what inferrior
At least Hifimediy are honest about any flaws. This makes them more trustworthy in my opinion.
It's a higher-quality amp than 90% of the TA2024 amps out there. You'll find positive reviews if you look in the Class-D subforum.
How many DB
Hi, Full range have mid very nice and warm, let me known how many DB ??? 90>>> 98 ????. Bests
Hi, Full range have mid very nice and warm, let me known how many DB ??? 90>>> 98 ????. Bests
what exactly are you asking?
the speaker i will build with the chp70 has ~max 85db.
i'm going to use the speaker in a near field situation, so modest volume levels are enough.
You can find basic but fine working USB DACs on ebay for less than 20$. They're based on the PCM1704 and they work. No noise, no hiss, no hum and you can achieve good volume by tapping directly into them with a TA2020 or similar. For larger rooms, i'd use a preamp in-between tho.
I use that very setup with a pair of 3.5litres FF85 i'm building.
I listened to a TA202 Kit from eBay and PCM1704 usb dac with a pair of Fostex FE 167 and the volume is MORE than adequate. The TA2024 is slightly less powerful so YMMV, but i can recommend this combination as working fairly.
I use that very setup with a pair of 3.5litres FF85 i'm building.
I listened to a TA202 Kit from eBay and PCM1704 usb dac with a pair of Fostex FE 167 and the volume is MORE than adequate. The TA2024 is slightly less powerful so YMMV, but i can recommend this combination as working fairly.
Last edited:
hey,
ti ringrazio!
so far i only found exspensive dacs witm pcm1704 on ebay.
do you have a name or link for me?
what exactly are you asking?
the speaker i will build with the chp70 has ~max 85db.
i'm going to use the speaker in a near field situation, so modest volume levels are enough.
Saryum,
AFAIK the 85dB spec means 85dB SPL with 1 watt amplification at 1 meter distance. That means with more watts you can get >85 dB given your distance from the speakers remains same. And IMHO 85dB is probably more than enough for near-field listening.
Hi !
what exactly are you asking?
the speaker i will build with the chp70 has ~max 85db.
i'm going to use the speaker in a near field situation, so modest volume levels are enough.
OK, you must user Solid Amp for them and Tube Amp get soud not good. Bests
- Status
- This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.