The TPA3116 class D is ideal to power the FH3 regardless of the driver used.
It sounds far better than any of the many t-amps I've owned.
Add a tube preamp and it competes with many SET amps.
Best part is they can cost as little as $12 plus a lap top power brick.
In my picture I'm using a $35 Astron ham radio linear PS.
I bought a couple to play with - thought they were broken, because there was no extraneous noise.
I am on the hunt for a good solid-state preamp - Valves aren't in the budget.
I bought a couple to play with - thought they were broken, because there was no extraneous noise.
I am on the hunt for a good solid-state preamp - Valves aren't in the budget.
I also use the very nice sounding Yuan Jing 6N3 preamp with the TPA3116/ FH3's. It usually sells for around $50 on ebay

I also use the very nice sounding Yuan Jing 6N3 preamp with the TPA3116/ FH3's. It usually sells for around $50 on ebay
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Thanks.
I just realised that my amp has pre-out already, so I can go ahead and start building.
Poultrygeist, I like the style of that piece.
Evan
Thanks. It's two drawer dividers glued together.
Thanks Dave.
Don't believe their per-unit pricing - everything is negotiable. I usually give them a shopping list and then haggle over final price and freight. I'm miserably tight with a dollar and usually end up satisfied with the deal 🙂 I have found (from years of buying from China) that getting one guy to source is better than buying from multiple outlets. It's always a good idea to give him the chance to fulfill all your hardware supplies. If they can't get it, they will quickly tell you - not leave you hanging.
Rofl never heard of haggling on aliexpress!
Fostex FE103eN in Frugal Horn?
Has anyone used a Fostex FE103eN driver in a Frugal Horn? I am getting a pair of these drivers and looking for a suitable enclosure. Will be using these with a DIY tube amp (Mighty Midget by Pete Millet) and looking to get the best sound out of these drivers for a small room.
Also, If these would work in a Frugal Horn, what changes in stuffing might I try?
Thanks
Has anyone used a Fostex FE103eN driver in a Frugal Horn? I am getting a pair of these drivers and looking for a suitable enclosure. Will be using these with a DIY tube amp (Mighty Midget by Pete Millet) and looking to get the best sound out of these drivers for a small room.
Also, If these would work in a Frugal Horn, what changes in stuffing might I try?
Thanks
We did use the FE103 SOL successfully, no changes in stuffing from the A7.3.
(Ryan, spelled Frugel-Horn)
dave
(Ryan, spelled Frugel-Horn)
dave
Frugel Horn MK3 question.
I am thinking of building these for use with the Fostex FE103eN and running into budget issues buying the plywood. 5 X 5 18mm BB is $54 and I can get a 5 X 5 of 12mm BB for $24. If I was to use the 18mm for the baffle could I use 12mm for the rest of the panels? I think these drivers can be surface mounted so a recess should not be an issue. using the 18mm/12mm combo or all 12mm what dimensional or stuffing changes would need to be made?
I am thinking of building these for use with the Fostex FE103eN and running into budget issues buying the plywood. 5 X 5 18mm BB is $54 and I can get a 5 X 5 of 12mm BB for $24. If I was to use the 18mm for the baffle could I use 12mm for the rest of the panels? I think these drivers can be surface mounted so a recess should not be an issue. using the 18mm/12mm combo or all 12mm what dimensional or stuffing changes would need to be made?
Edit: got side tracked, so Dave beat me to it, and not to contradict him but if available, I'd suggest 15mm - it's what we use on our kits, except for the driver panel. As you noted, the Fostex FE series can be surface mounted, and we use 18mm for fronts on our kits to allow for Mark Audio and other drivers with thicker mounting bezels that need to be rebated for flush mounting.
I happen to be a fuss-azz re grain direction - I like to see longitudinal grain on all external parts, including the back panel, but as the cut plan on page 15 of the FH3 plan set shows, if you're not so anal (exposed back panel will be cross grain), then a single sheet can work. Note this is a very tight fit
p.s even with 12mm for baffle, the driver cut out for the Fostex should probably get as much of a bevel on the rear side as the bearing on your router will have clearance for.
I happen to be a fuss-azz re grain direction - I like to see longitudinal grain on all external parts, including the back panel, but as the cut plan on page 15 of the FH3 plan set shows, if you're not so anal (exposed back panel will be cross grain), then a single sheet can work. Note this is a very tight fit
p.s even with 12mm for baffle, the driver cut out for the Fostex should probably get as much of a bevel on the rear side as the bearing on your router will have clearance for.
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I'd suggest you fashion a small tapered wedge as gluing block for the closed end of the 5dg taper - it will provide extra glue surface area where it's critical that you have a tight seal
Hi!
Im going to build a pair of Mk3 speakers, but im using 16mm Valchromat material. And now im wondering if its possible to use the 15mm plan? Or will that change the speaker volume to much and have a negative effect to the sound quality?
Thanks
Im going to build a pair of Mk3 speakers, but im using 16mm Valchromat material. And now im wondering if its possible to use the 15mm plan? Or will that change the speaker volume to much and have a negative effect to the sound quality?
Thanks
Valchromat looks to be essentially a high quality HDF…
Use the 15mm plans but push the internal depth will need to increase 1mm and the external depth 3mm. Width will be 2mm wider.
If you can go with that fine, if not,l give me the time to do a 16mm drawing.
What driver?
dave
Use the 15mm plans but push the internal depth will need to increase 1mm and the external depth 3mm. Width will be 2mm wider.
If you can go with that fine, if not,l give me the time to do a 16mm drawing.
What driver?
dave
The driver is Alpair 7A. If you could do a 16mm plan that would be awesome. 😀 Yeah the Valchromat board is super stiff and good quality, made in Portugal🙂
(In Europe the standard thickness is 8,12,16,19,22mm. )
(In Europe the standard thickness is 8,12,16,19,22mm. )
interesting product - sorta cross between HDF and solid surface material - higher resin content than fibreboards, colour throughout and by my calculation, at least 20% denser than standard MDF
your results should be interesting
Valchromat - Investwood
your results should be interesting
Valchromat - Investwood
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