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Old 23rd November 2011, 10:51 PM   #561
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No, gen 2 ones....
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Old 24th November 2011, 01:12 AM   #562
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Gen 2 = Gen 1 with added super-gaskets. No other differences. Both are the 1st metal cones with 2nd generation technology. I lump them together as A7.2 = A7

dave
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Old 6th December 2011, 01:02 PM   #563
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Ok, I am going to build the triangle rear baffles/reflection for behind my speakers. I would like to include a driver to reach some of the lower freq. Does anyone have the dimensions for ones that they are using? Can I put the driver on the front two angled sides (using two drivers) or should I put it on the back facing the wall/corner? Also, could I down fire it instead? All suggestions would be great... Thanks Folks.
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Old 6th December 2011, 01:04 PM   #564
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Default Similar to Chris/Dave's make up here.

Screen Shot 2011-12-06 at 8.03.26 AM.jpg
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Old 6th December 2011, 04:03 PM   #565
chrisb is offline chrisb  Canada
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jonparkhurst View Post
attached as built sketch for the pair in above photo.

intended as easy build, with simple clean lines from the front, which is why the single driver (SDX7) was rear mounted, and amp external

yes - in metric
Attached Files
File Type: pdf fh3stealth.pdf (7.4 KB, 221 views)
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Old 6th December 2011, 04:04 PM   #566
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Thanks Chris... any thoughts to mounting driver down or two on each side of the angled front?
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Old 6th December 2011, 04:18 PM   #567
chrisb is offline chrisb  Canada
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jonparkhurst View Post
Thanks Chris... any thoughts to mounting driver down or two on each side of the angled front?

That was quick - note on the drawings that the SDX7 enclosure is sealed. As long as the driver of your choice is comfortable in a smallish sealed application you could mount them (multiples if you like) where ever they fit, but keep in mind that boundary loading directly into the floor would require at least a few inches of clearance.

With the 90` equilateral triangle shape (chosen for ease of build), the back (hypotenuse) is the widest panel and you can see that it's still a tight fit for magnet to clear.

Two other thoughts - IMHO, it's at least as important to use plywood vs MDF in a small woofer such as this, and bracing is imperative.
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Old 6th December 2011, 05:49 PM   #568
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chrisb View Post
intended as easy build, with simple clean lines from the front, which is why the single driver (SDX7) was rear mounted, and amp external
And so we could call it a stealthWoofer...

and so that we would get maximum room loading to push the response downward.

downward firingwould be fine, but when you look at the size of the triangle you aren't going to get much woofer mounted there -- i haver some nice looking Peerless 4" i'm trying.

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Old 26th December 2011, 05:25 PM   #569
cberger is offline cberger  United States
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Question damping materials needed

Hi everybody

I'm about to order the parts for my mk3 build. Question is, how much of the damping material do I need? I was thinking of ordering 2 sheets of this stuff:
Sonic Barrier 1/2" Acoustic Foam w/PSA 18" x 24" 260-520
And a bag of this:
Acousta-Stuf Polyfill 1 lb. Bag 260-317
Is that enough / too much ? The driver I'm planning on using is the chr-70 g3.
How do you glue that stuff down, does regular multipurpose glue do the trick?

Thanks,
Christian

ps: where do you usually route the cables? Do you just clamp them to the inside of the side panels?
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Old 26th December 2011, 05:54 PM   #570
chrisb is offline chrisb  Canada
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cberger View Post
Hi everybody

I'm about to order the parts for my mk3 build. Question is, how much of the damping material do I need? I was thinking of ordering 2 sheets of this stuff:
Sonic Barrier 1/2" Acoustic Foam w/PSA 18" x 24" 260-520
And a bag of this:
Acousta-Stuf Polyfill 1 lb. Bag 260-317
Is that enough / too much ? The driver I'm planning on using is the chr-70 g3.
How do you glue that stuff down, does regular multipurpose glue do the trick?

Thanks,
Christian

ps: where do you usually route the cables? Do you just clamp them to the inside of the side panels?
I prefer the 1/2" felted denim Ultratouch insulation as sold in small quantities by Bob Reimer at CSS

Creative Sound - Product Details

The FH3 full documentation has the diagrams for layout and quantities required.

If cut accurately, it will almost friction fit, but a little standard white (Weldbond etc) wood glue is more than enough.

The loose fibre fill in the closed end of taper ( i.e. behind the vertical divider) is the same for all drivers, but the amount of fill required between the driver and choke point will vary from system to system and requires experimentation. Be sure drivers are fully broken in according to Mark's guidelines, and since the section below driver is an expanding taper, it's a good idea to staple or hot glue a retaining mesh or wires to keep fill in place.

Several builders have fabricated with a removable top to allow access to the front taper section for adjusting fill levels during the fine tuning phase - then fill screw holes and complete the finishing when done. I wish I hadda thought of that.


Input terminals can go anywhere you like - I use a cheap round input cup with 5-way binding posts for banana plugs, and mount about 4" down from the top on the rear slanted panel. This keeps the internal wiring as short as possible - it's easily dressed over the top of internal divider and held in place by the damping fill.
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