Frugel-Horn Mk3 Builds & Build Questions

Just finished and cranked up the FH3's during the week. Theyre outstanding!

I feel while the bass sounds really good, it could be a little stronger. I know these things are not subwoofers, but I would just like to bring bass up a little to match the mids and highs.

Should I reduce the amount of stuffing in the main chamber below the driver? (Please see pic in post #424 of how much I put in).

These speakers have already exceded my expectations...
 
If you do decide to add a supra-baffle, you should consider hogging out a bit of the existing baffle to allow "breathing" room through the material of second layer - something like this - new part for our flat-pak kits - allows for attachment of supra-baffle plates via threaded inserts ( excuse the nasty camera photo)

Cool - the supra-baffle is fitted directly on top of this, or a layer of weatherstrip foam goes in between?

Also can you post a pic of the supra-baffle also please? (assuming it is ready)
 
Jdot, you didn't mention what driver. From the post with the damping it looks like one of the Mark Audio. i'd remove all of the damping from just below the driver to above the driver. If that is not enuff, keep removing bits from below the driver until you have too much bass, them put some back

dave


Thanks dave. Yes I've got the Mark Audio A7's in them.

I'll start tuning!
 
frugal-phile™
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Cool - the supra-baffle is fitted directly on top of this, or a layer of weatherstrip foam goes in between?

Also can you post a pic of the supra-baffle also please? (assuming it is ready)

Yes, some sort of gasket goes between the sB & the baffle. It should be thing,

I was going to take pictures of the prototypes today, but ended up going out shopping for sexier M4 bolts to hold it in place.

There are some not so close-up shots in the VI diyFEST photos, to shoehorn FE138eSR into FH3 we had to add the sB

236731d1314044151-8th-annual-vancouver-island-diyfest-2011-vidiy2011_spk02.jpg


Maybe pictures tomorrow.

dave
 
Alpair 7s arrived yesterday and hopefully we'll have a test assembly tomorrow night!!

Those alpair 7s certainly look the part, very nicely made indeed, although somehow smaller than I expected. Lovely looking though. And the grey is actually a metallic grey colour, not at all unattractive.


Fran



as the Doctor might say - (they're) bigger inside (the enclosures)
 
Dave - copper and silver are much closer to what they actually look like.


Anyhow I got my set hooked up tonight!!!

Sound is very impressive for drivers out of the box and given that its a quick lash up. Specifically, the bass is very good, tight and nicely textured. I imagine I will end up playing a bit with the stuffing, but just as it is, its pretty much good to my ears.

My only gripe right now is that there is a very slight edge to some treble. Example: rimshots or cybals sound a bit "splashy" if you know what I mean. However, as I said, these are drivers literally cold out of the box, and no doubt they will improve during run in (alpair 7s).

I'm impressed!!!


Fran
 

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Mmm. I can rebate the inside edge easy enough, but it will probably be easier to make a superbaffle than cut a rebate to seat the driver flush. I need to read up on your experiences on this so far!


How precise is the driver cut-out opening, and which version of Alp7 are you running?

With the 7.3, depending on whether you're using the secondary bezel ring, the rebate for flange would need to be 135 or 130mm dia or 16 / 13.5mm respectively greater radius than the cutout. In other words if the existing through hole is exactly round (even if slightly oversized) the offset bearing jig on small laminate trimmer like the Makita ( & maybe Bosch as well?) can make this relatively simple

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.



And FWIW, I'd be interested in your observations of difference heard once the clamps are off the boxes.
 
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The drivers are mk2 and the cutout is perfect circle. The driver hole is 106mm, so 19mm short and I have a rebate router bit that I think is 3/8" which is very close, probably good enough. If I rebate the driver that only leaves about 10mm of mdf to hold the drivers.. Less if i champher the inside.

What would you suggest?

Fran
 
The drivers are mk2 and the cutout is perfect circle. The driver hole is 106mm, so 19mm short and I have a rebate router bit that I think is 3/8" which is very close, probably good enough. If I rebate the driver that only leaves about 10mm of mdf to hold the drivers.. Less if i champher the inside.

What would you suggest?

Fran


I'd be inclined to rebate, forego the chamfer ( 10mm should be enough - these aren't 18" car subs) and see what you think - you can always hog it out further and install a supra-baffle later.