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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Vancouver, British Columbia
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First of all, thanks to Dave for all his help. This has been an interesting learning experience.
I've diverged from the original thread. A thread for Tysen and variations on FAST. See for original proposals. Basically, this is my customized version of the Tysen Speaker. I chose it after building a TQWTL that was very good, however it had some short comings for the types of music that I listen to. Low mids and Bass. I had used the FE167E FR's for that project, and wanted to incorporate them into the Tysen. |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Vancouver, British Columbia
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1. Something tall where the centre for the FR is around 40". The height for both me and my wife to listen on axis.
2. Narrow so that It could be placed near the wall beside the fireplace when we needed more space in the living room. 3. FE167E, cause I already have them, and my DIY budget for the year is shrinking ![]() 4. More bass. A Biamped system to control the bass in the room based on a specific recording. Effective EQ of lows and highs. |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Vancouver, British Columbia
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Here's what it looks like on paper.
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Vancouver, British Columbia
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1. Adjustable Q with sliding shelves to reveal different chambers altering the volume and Q.
2. Adjustable Faceplate: Like what NP does with his open baffles. FR125SR seems to model well in this cabinet. With lower impedance's than the FE167E, and the faceplace may act like a supra baffle as well. 3. Dual CSS or EL70 drivers wired series. All this in one cabinet. Will it work, don't know. DIY is fun
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Vancouver, British Columbia
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What I meant there is: using either the FE167E single FR, or FR125SR single or dual, or EL70 single or dual, or a combination of the smaller FR's
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Vancouver, British Columbia
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My original ML TQWTL was based on some proposed design. It didn't suit my needs. However, I'm not bashing it, I just had the wrong cabinet to begin with, and have verified that with Martin King. I'm sure some designs can go low, and I could have built another one.
However, building a Tysen, gives me the opportunity to build something different. |
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#7 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: victoria BC
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Quote:
Well if you mostly like the sound of the FE167E, I'd suggest dual EL70s (series wired), and woofer(s) of choice. As you're aware, the SDX 7's huge advantage is the performance available in very low volume sealed enclosures. Like the FR & WR125s, the price paid for this is sensitivity; and in my own experience, less than graceful performance when over-driven - not something I've yet heard from the Mark Audio drivers mentioned, even at high (for me) SPLs - i.e. circa high 90 's Just to throw another angle at'cha, you might want to consider trying up-firing one of the EL or CHR70's in a dual driver application. Both my wife & I are quite enjoying what this does in terms of soundstage, etc., in the "castle" microtowers.
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you don't really believe everything you think, do you? community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com commercial site planet10-HiFi Last edited by chrisb; 29th October 2009 at 10:02 PM. |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Vancouver, British Columbia
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See thread
Single Ended Active Crossovers for Open Baffle Speakers I'm still thinking about this. It may well be done using dual supplies to get rid of the bypass caps. See thread DIY progress report Some info from NP B4. I currently have a DIY B1 buffer running on the FE167E FR, and it works amazingly well. |
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#9 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Vancouver, British Columbia
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Quote:
Haven't heard the CHR70's but have heard the Alpair7 and Alpair10. To me, they were too bright for my tastes. I think I just like the paper FR's, compared to aluminum alloys. |
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#10 |
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frugal-phile(tm)
diyAudio Moderator
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I don't think many have heard the Alpair 7, Mark only made the 1st of them a very short while ago (you probably mean Alpair 6).
Given that you have the volume, and you are using drivers that go lower, you might well consider the Trio8 or Trio10 instead of the SDX7. dave
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community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com ........ commercial site planet10-HiFi |
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