Ive got a bunch of 4" really thick walled sonotubes lying around. Im wondering if they could potentially make decent speaker enclosures!
My thoughts where some small 3" FR drivers mounted into both ends of the sonotube. they would be mounted vertically so one driver fires up and one fires down, in a surround sound application. I think they would at least look nice, wrapped in a nice veneer!
Any thoughts? is this a horrible idea ?
My thoughts where some small 3" FR drivers mounted into both ends of the sonotube. they would be mounted vertically so one driver fires up and one fires down, in a surround sound application. I think they would at least look nice, wrapped in a nice veneer!
Any thoughts? is this a horrible idea ?
not horrible at all - it's very commonly used for isolation of midrange units in multiways
a lot of DIYers (and even some commercial makers) use large diameter ABS plumbing pipe for the ease of fabrication and availability of fittings to allow folding in the case of TL / horn designs.
larger diameter sonotube (6" -18") has frequently been used for car audio and home audio woofers/subs - trickiest part (i.e. not particularly tricky at all) is fabricating flanges for mounting and sealing drivers and connectors, etc.
have fun
a lot of DIYers (and even some commercial makers) use large diameter ABS plumbing pipe for the ease of fabrication and availability of fittings to allow folding in the case of TL / horn designs.
larger diameter sonotube (6" -18") has frequently been used for car audio and home audio woofers/subs - trickiest part (i.e. not particularly tricky at all) is fabricating flanges for mounting and sealing drivers and connectors, etc.
have fun
Cool, I was thinking of picking some aurasound ns3, or hivi b3n's, or something of the sort. I need some surround sounds to complement my fr125s fronts.
thought the sonotubes would blend nicely into the room, and the up-down driver positioning might make for some transparent surround effects.
Ill giver a go and see what happens
thought the sonotubes would blend nicely into the room, and the up-down driver positioning might make for some transparent surround effects.
Ill giver a go and see what happens
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
With markaudio drivers....
Well I bought some 6" sonotube, cut some endcaps for them, and now im trying to find some good wood grain vinyl or self addhesive veneer to wrap them in!
Ive decided to go with 1 fr125 and 1 wr125 per tube (since I already have them lying around). The fr125 will be up facing, and the wr will be down facing. the tube is 40" long which gives roughly 16 litres internal volumn for the two drivers sealed.
Ill get some pics up when i start assembling everything!
Ive decided to go with 1 fr125 and 1 wr125 per tube (since I already have them lying around). The fr125 will be up facing, and the wr will be down facing. the tube is 40" long which gives roughly 16 litres internal volumn for the two drivers sealed.
Ill get some pics up when i start assembling everything!
upward or downward firing ...
I don't know to what degree a FR may be affected, but if you do a search on downward-firing sub-woofers, you will uncover a formula that reputely assesses the driver's ability to handle the effects of gravity - aka sag.
Someone else may care to comment.
cheers
Doug
I don't know to what degree a FR may be affected, but if you do a search on downward-firing sub-woofers, you will uncover a formula that reputely assesses the driver's ability to handle the effects of gravity - aka sag.
Someone else may care to comment.
cheers
Doug
Robertburchell said:
Not a good idea to orient an FR125 (or any driver with an open voice coil) upwards. It will collect dust and die.
As well loading the pipe at either end could be problematic. It might work heavily stuffed and a 1/2 wl long. Or you could partition it. You'd want to roll off the bottom driver lower than a 1/4 wl of the distance between the 2.
dave
Thanks for the feedback!
Good to know, I may have to revise this plan then haha, I could always use the little round circle grill that came with the drivers when I bought them, they magnetically attach the mounting screws, and are pretty fancy looking! that should keep the dust out.
as far as the bipole idea, maybe I should consider just doing a single driver ported enclosure in the sonotubes.. although I was unsatisfied with the output from the single fr125 and was perfectly happy with wr125 thrown into the mix.
hmm
Good to know, I may have to revise this plan then haha, I could always use the little round circle grill that came with the drivers when I bought them, they magnetically attach the mounting screws, and are pretty fancy looking! that should keep the dust out.
as far as the bipole idea, maybe I should consider just doing a single driver ported enclosure in the sonotubes.. although I was unsatisfied with the output from the single fr125 and was perfectly happy with wr125 thrown into the mix.
hmm
Robertburchell said:
It is a crossover thing. I probably have gotten it wrong, i don't do more than one driver often... looking at Jim Griffen's line arrary paper (we can consider this a 2 driver line arrary), then he suggests maximum spacing of 1/2 to 1 wavelength. That pushes the roll-off to between 150-300 hz. I do know that with Tysen (a 333 Hz XO) when i started XO development the woofer was ~ 24: from the mid-tweeter and i was getting too much combing so flipped the woofer box around to get the 2 drivers as close as possible.
The bipole FR/WR boxes we did worked quite well. These drivers are at their best sonically sealed (or aperiodic), somewhere between 4.5 & 7 litres per driver is where i've ended up.
Just been playing in my head with an ode to the EPI miniTower using 4 WR125ST.
dave
A weird idea ... 
What if one were to configure an internally-partitioned tower as shown?
Let's dub it the "Quad-BIB" - the idea being that 4 BIB-style compartments standing together?
(Leave aside the size implications!)
If one were to use (say) WR125ST's, and kept to the calculated L and Z, what would the effect be (sonically) in squashing the X-section to make a reasonably-sized and aesthetically-pleasing compound cabinet?
cheers
Doug
What if one were to configure an internally-partitioned tower as shown?
Let's dub it the "Quad-BIB" - the idea being that 4 BIB-style compartments standing together?
(Leave aside the size implications!)
If one were to use (say) WR125ST's, and kept to the calculated L and Z, what would the effect be (sonically) in squashing the X-section to make a reasonably-sized and aesthetically-pleasing compound cabinet?
cheers
Doug
Attachments
Ive ordered some more of the parts I need to put this project together!
I think id like to go with the fr125 and wr125 loaded into either end, simply because I need the volumn the two drivers can provide. I gather that Ill need to roll the wr125 off at a specific frequency, which is where im hoping someone can chime in with some technical details
Basically, the pipes are 40" long, 6" wide, can be stuffed as heavily as need be. Im hopping to get usuable bass down to 80hz, as Ill have a 120litre tempest crossed in at the frequency, ideally.
Does this sound doable ? If so, at which frequency would you recomend I cut off the wr125? and maybe you can guide me to a link where I can read up on building a crossover to do soo.. or sudgest the parts I may need. Im handy with a soldering iron and what not, ive just never built a crossover so I dont really know where to start. Its easy to say roll the driver off at 300hz, but i dont know what components I need to do so! hahaha, anyways any more input would be appreciated!
Thanks muchly!
I think id like to go with the fr125 and wr125 loaded into either end, simply because I need the volumn the two drivers can provide. I gather that Ill need to roll the wr125 off at a specific frequency, which is where im hoping someone can chime in with some technical details
Basically, the pipes are 40" long, 6" wide, can be stuffed as heavily as need be. Im hopping to get usuable bass down to 80hz, as Ill have a 120litre tempest crossed in at the frequency, ideally.
Does this sound doable ? If so, at which frequency would you recomend I cut off the wr125? and maybe you can guide me to a link where I can read up on building a crossover to do soo.. or sudgest the parts I may need. Im handy with a soldering iron and what not, ive just never built a crossover so I dont really know where to start. Its easy to say roll the driver off at 300hz, but i dont know what components I need to do so! hahaha, anyways any more input would be appreciated!
Thanks muchly!
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