So, what's the secret handshake to get at these worksheets. They aren't on his site
Cheers!
Get the license $25. Well worth the money. You can join his yahoo groups and he provides excellent support.
How dense is dense? How dense is 1lb/ft^3 ? How do you estimate this when you're actually stuffing a box?
I've just been goin by ear to what I like then measuring afterwards.
Thanks,
Leo
Another Variation
DIY never ends
I just came back from CSS and heard the EL70's and FR125SReN drivers and have been very impressed by them being so even and balanced.
Would an aperiodic midTL with dual EL70's or FR125SR work?
I just bought the SDX7's today. But after hearing these CSS drivers, I'm thinking of using either of those instead of the FE167E.
I should probably ask this question elsewhere but, would enabling the FE167E drivers and adding a phase plug make it more even and balanced.
Thank you.
DIY never ends
I just came back from CSS and heard the EL70's and FR125SReN drivers and have been very impressed by them being so even and balanced.
Would an aperiodic midTL with dual EL70's or FR125SR work?
I just bought the SDX7's today. But after hearing these CSS drivers, I'm thinking of using either of those instead of the FE167E.
I should probably ask this question elsewhere but, would enabling the FE167E drivers and adding a phase plug make it more even and balanced.
Thank you.
Sure... any FR will do, althou you like to squew them towards the ones that do top and mid best (usually smaller). RAW acoustics did an HT2 that was FR125 + Extremis 6.8 (then SDX7)
Make sure you do at least the minimal mods to the SDX7.
dave
DIY never ends
I just came back from CSS and heard the EL70's and FR125SReN drivers and have been very impressed by them being so even and balanced.
Would an aperiodic midTL with dual EL70's or FR125SR work?
I just bought the SDX7's today. But after hearing these CSS drivers, I'm thinking of using either of those instead of the FE167E.
I should probably ask this question elsewhere but, would enabling the FE167E drivers and adding a phase plug make it more even and balanced.
Thank you.
In response to this and post in another thread, I think it's fair to say that at any "matching" level of stock or modified configuration, any Fostex and similar dimensioned Mark Audio / CSS driver will not exhibit the same degree of "balance" of tonality, dynamics or presentation (i.e. forward or relaxed). It's not necessary to choose exclusively between them - I have examples of each in my own systems, (FE127 / FE167 & EL70 - all with polka dots) and listen to both almost daily. And never underestimate the power of synergy ( i.e. to take something beyond the simple sum of the individual values).
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With the EL70 a lower XO would be advisable, and the lower Fs also means a longer line. I'd fold it up like the FE167 sketch above and make the box at least 10" deep (deeper (up to ~14" wouldn't hurt). Keep in mind that as we are damping things aperiodically, actual design dimensions can vary quite a bit without a whole lot of impact on performance.
Alas Trio 8 is still sitting on my bench. 10 days down with the flue has me even further behind.
We do have a full-size FonkenPrime size box prtotype for the EL70 closing in on completion (probably ahead of me finishing EL70eN (intro special still stands therefore)).
dave
dave
Alas Trio 8 is still sitting on my bench. 10 days down with the flue has me even further behind.
We do have a full-size FonkenPrime size box prtotype for the EL70 closing in on completion (probably ahead of me finishing EL70eN (intro special still stands therefore)).
dave
dave
Hey Dave,
Thanks for the quick reply. I hope you feel better now, the flu can be tough at anytime.
I was hoping for some guidelines exactly like you mentioned. 10-14 inch depth, 10/1 area taper, folded, and aperiodically stuffed. Thanks for the guidlines. The design not being too critical is a bonus for my first effort.
I am trying to decide between the Tyson variant we are discussing with the EL70, or Alpair 7, on top and 1-2 SDX7's or Trio8's on the bottom sealed, and a Fonken type floorstander similar to your Bi-polar MiniOnken, but with 2 EL70's on top and one SDX7 or Trio8 on bottom.
Post you impressions of the big EL70 Fonken once they are done, I'de be very interested in your results.
Mark
Thanks for the quick reply. I hope you feel better now, the flu can be tough at anytime.
I was hoping for some guidelines exactly like you mentioned. 10-14 inch depth, 10/1 area taper, folded, and aperiodically stuffed. Thanks for the guidlines. The design not being too critical is a bonus for my first effort.
I am trying to decide between the Tyson variant we are discussing with the EL70, or Alpair 7, on top and 1-2 SDX7's or Trio8's on the bottom sealed, and a Fonken type floorstander similar to your Bi-polar MiniOnken, but with 2 EL70's on top and one SDX7 or Trio8 on bottom.
Post you impressions of the big EL70 Fonken once they are done, I'de be very interested in your results.
Mark
Dave,
Another question if you don't mind.
Any way to use 2 EL70's in a fast type speaker. Say one on the front and one on the top or side? What would you do to the taper and area of the horn? Double the area is my best guess, but was hoping you could either model or give your thoughts.
Thanks in advance.
Mark
Another question if you don't mind.
Any way to use 2 EL70's in a fast type speaker. Say one on the front and one on the top or side? What would you do to the taper and area of the horn? Double the area is my best guess, but was hoping you could either model or give your thoughts.
Thanks in advance.
Mark
Here's one of my experiments:
Aura NS3 and Exodus EX-6.5. Crossed at 150Hz in the amp (could cross at 200 but the sub amp only goes to 150Hz), all sealed (5ltr & 15ltr, I think) , with ~3db of BSC. Sounds good where they in the picture but need lots of power to get decent volume. Just need to find another cheap amp to play with different crossover configurations.
Aura NS3 and Exodus EX-6.5. Crossed at 150Hz in the amp (could cross at 200 but the sub amp only goes to 150Hz), all sealed (5ltr & 15ltr, I think) , with ~3db of BSC. Sounds good where they in the picture but need lots of power to get decent volume. Just need to find another cheap amp to play with different crossover configurations.
Attachments
From questions people ask when they audtion them, i think that people feel that inside is their 1st instinct, but on Tysen, with the 30 degree toe-in that works so well, the woofers need to be on the outside so that they fire "forward". If they were on the inside they would be firing at the wall behind the speakers.
The cabinet size, toe-in, and XO all work together to get flatter FR thru the baffle step loss region.
dave
The cabinet size, toe-in, and XO all work together to get flatter FR thru the baffle step loss region.
dave