An issue I see that gets glossed over with a miniDSP (and the like) is you have to like the sound of their ADC and DACs which comprise the unit.
We've all seen the efforts 'round here with DACs in getting them to sound transparent; I mean, how does one know that when tossing one of these units into your otherwise all analog system, you're not introducing sonic artifacts due to "jitter" or some other digitizing phenomena?
We've all seen the efforts 'round here with DACs in getting them to sound transparent; I mean, how does one know that when tossing one of these units into your otherwise all analog system, you're not introducing sonic artifacts due to "jitter" or some other digitizing phenomena?
Dave, thanks for responding. I've not tried them upside down. I'll do that today. Does doing that help with integration with the woofer because they are in closer proximity? Maybe I should have built the cabinet per the plans. I was limited by the 1/2" birch ply my local dealer had was only 30" in length. I guess I could build a separate wedge-shaped enclosure. Thanks again for a great design and your assistance.
yes, closer.
12mm ply is fine for these, we just found that being so thin the corners were more work.
dave
12mm ply is fine for these, we just found that being so thin the corners were more work.
dave
I decided to "purty" my project up and also get a little closer to Planet10's original design. I built a wedge shaped separate enclosure for the ff85wk the same dimensions as the section on his Tysen v2 plans. I attempted a little "TG" action on the front baffle. That's as close as I'll ever get to his level of craftsmanship. Again my reasoning for not following the original plan, my local supplier only had 30" tall BB plywood. Also, I'm cheap and had the RS 40-1354's on hand. Pretty good bass for one little 5 1/4" driver per box. These were part of a closeout stash purchased nearly 20 years ago for $5.00/driver.
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Tysen V2 can substitute these for the FF85wk. Passive XO is not as well developed. Hard to get the woofers outside of North America. How is your acess to Madisound?
Woden Nanosaurus, but Alpair 12pw in NLA and may be hard to find.
If you can biamp — even a PLLXO — it is a much easier task.
dave
Woden Nanosaurus, but Alpair 12pw in NLA and may be hard to find.
If you can biamp — even a PLLXO — it is a much easier task.
dave
What are the limitations of pllxo’s?
Can they do notch filters etc? I don’t even know what else to ask, I’ve done very litttle with crossovers. Are they as “good” as normal crossovers in their capabilities?
But I’m curious and I have heaps of spare little amps floating around.
Can they do notch filters etc? I don’t even know what else to ask, I’ve done very litttle with crossovers. Are they as “good” as normal crossovers in their capabilities?
But I’m curious and I have heaps of spare little amps floating around.
Anybody in North America fancy building a Kef blade type Tyson? Monsterous bass on a budget with these drivers. 4 per speaker push/pull 😁
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My sincerest respects to you, planet10. I've been looking for inspirations on starting a bipole projects. I hope I'm not hijacking the thread.
I'm currently away from winding output transformers and working on a movie set. There are days were out team is on standby mode only, so that allows for time to read stuff. I've been exploring many forum topics for my next speaker project, reading mainly about speaker wall coloration, dampening materials and bracing. My main motivations for a bipole project is exactly the cancellation of drivers forces towards the speaker enclosure, that should leave a more neutral sounding speaker.
But how about building a three-way project? I have a Fostex Fe138 EsR sitting in my stash. It is unusable as a full range in my opinion, but could be used in the 300Hz-1.5kHz domain, then a waveguide loaded tweeter could be added.
The Fostex driver has an average efficiency of 91.5dB/W/m, and that would allow even bigger and more efficient bass drivers. Then it could be loaded into an aperiodic tapered TL.
Bass drivers could be SB26SFCL38 with a Qts 0.53 and Fs 27.5 into a sealed enclosure or aperiodic. Or, for a tighter WAF, SB20PFCR30 into a bottom port ML-TL with slight aperiodic loading.
My question is - considering the cancellation of forces, how much is bracing important in this case? Let's assume the drivers are also mounted screwless on the baffles and tight coupled by their magnets. Of course there will be bracing, preferably matrix bracing, but perhaps not so densely distributed, compared to a single driver enclosure. Let's also assume that the midrange/tweeter combo will be mounted into a separate enclosure with vibration dampening decoupling, by a layer of sand perhaps, from the bass section.
I'm currently away from winding output transformers and working on a movie set. There are days were out team is on standby mode only, so that allows for time to read stuff. I've been exploring many forum topics for my next speaker project, reading mainly about speaker wall coloration, dampening materials and bracing. My main motivations for a bipole project is exactly the cancellation of drivers forces towards the speaker enclosure, that should leave a more neutral sounding speaker.
But how about building a three-way project? I have a Fostex Fe138 EsR sitting in my stash. It is unusable as a full range in my opinion, but could be used in the 300Hz-1.5kHz domain, then a waveguide loaded tweeter could be added.
The Fostex driver has an average efficiency of 91.5dB/W/m, and that would allow even bigger and more efficient bass drivers. Then it could be loaded into an aperiodic tapered TL.
Bass drivers could be SB26SFCL38 with a Qts 0.53 and Fs 27.5 into a sealed enclosure or aperiodic. Or, for a tighter WAF, SB20PFCR30 into a bottom port ML-TL with slight aperiodic loading.
My question is - considering the cancellation of forces, how much is bracing important in this case? Let's assume the drivers are also mounted screwless on the baffles and tight coupled by their magnets. Of course there will be bracing, preferably matrix bracing, but perhaps not so densely distributed, compared to a single driver enclosure. Let's also assume that the midrange/tweeter combo will be mounted into a separate enclosure with vibration dampening decoupling, by a layer of sand perhaps, from the bass section.
My opinion too. It does surprisingly good bass in something like a FHXL. But they turn the Fostex shout into a SCREAM.
Should make a decent midrange.
You can certainly get away with less bracing.
dave