G'day Dumbledog,
Great to see you trying this madness in spite of your initial doubts.
Getting confirmation of the audible changes from someone who is unaware of what you have done just adds to the excitement. Looking forward to your comments when the other speaker is treated.
Cheers,
Alex
Progress from the weekend..
Didn't get as much done as I thought I would.
Sometimes real life gets in the way of speaker-building.
Whould'a thunk?
Relaminated (glued back together) my template and¸
got the insides of the baffle done and scraped off some of the squares
I wasn't happy from the other day. The plaster adheres well to the rough wood.
(The white smearing you see isn't plaster but silicone where I sealed up nail holes and cracks in the wood.)
That being said, I could tell my template wasn't going to hold up much longer so I went to a local craft shop and picked up some thin plexiglass.
Glued another template to it and am cutting out rectangles again.
This will be considerable sturdier and has the advantage of being able to withstand being washed down with a sponge.
You need to to this about every other application as after a while the rectangles start clogging up with plaster as it dries out.
I would say Alex that the plexiglass is in around .4mm thick, (I'll see if I can get my Vernier calipers on it) after dry-down the plaster is probably around .3mm or so I'm guessing. The other template was maybe a little thicker as it was Bristol-board that was plastified.
Cheers,
-andre-
Didn't get as much done as I thought I would.
Sometimes real life gets in the way of speaker-building.
Whould'a thunk?
Relaminated (glued back together) my template and¸
got the insides of the baffle done and scraped off some of the squares
I wasn't happy from the other day. The plaster adheres well to the rough wood.
(The white smearing you see isn't plaster but silicone where I sealed up nail holes and cracks in the wood.)
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
That being said, I could tell my template wasn't going to hold up much longer so I went to a local craft shop and picked up some thin plexiglass.
Glued another template to it and am cutting out rectangles again.
This will be considerable sturdier and has the advantage of being able to withstand being washed down with a sponge.
You need to to this about every other application as after a while the rectangles start clogging up with plaster as it dries out.
I would say Alex that the plexiglass is in around .4mm thick, (I'll see if I can get my Vernier calipers on it) after dry-down the plaster is probably around .3mm or so I'm guessing. The other template was maybe a little thicker as it was Bristol-board that was plastified.
Cheers,
-andre-
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G'day andré,
Excellent work! The plexiglass is a great idea.
Do you plan to leave the internals raw? I'm wondering if it might be worth considering giving it a thin coat of paint or varnish before you glue them up.
This would seal the blocks and also give a smooth surface over the wood.
Yes, these blocks are for the inside panels. Post #1 has the drawings for baffle treatment.
I did try a similar approach with the baffles to see what would happen. The sound from the baffle become overemphasised and did appear to become a source of it's own - sounded horrible. For my ears, the edge treatment for baffles produced the most natural sounding results.
Cheers,
Alex
Excellent work! The plexiglass is a great idea.
Do you plan to leave the internals raw? I'm wondering if it might be worth considering giving it a thin coat of paint or varnish before you glue them up.
This would seal the blocks and also give a smooth surface over the wood.
Yes, these blocks are for the inside panels. Post #1 has the drawings for baffle treatment.
I did try a similar approach with the baffles to see what would happen. The sound from the baffle become overemphasised and did appear to become a source of it's own - sounded horrible. For my ears, the edge treatment for baffles produced the most natural sounding results.
Cheers,
Alex
G'day andré,
Painting the inside will make the cabinet 'less lossy' for sure and therefore more efficient and lively. Stuffing and strategic placement of sound absorbent material on the internal panels if needed should allow you to get the sound you want. In the main BIB thread, some even recommend hanging a pennant made of felt inside to tame unwanted high frequencies.
If the thought of painting makes you uncomfortable, don't do it.
Cheers,
Alex
Painting the inside will make the cabinet 'less lossy' for sure and therefore more efficient and lively. Stuffing and strategic placement of sound absorbent material on the internal panels if needed should allow you to get the sound you want. In the main BIB thread, some even recommend hanging a pennant made of felt inside to tame unwanted high frequencies.
If the thought of painting makes you uncomfortable, don't do it.
Cheers,
Alex
This is only my 3rd build and have a lot to learn. I am quite comfortable listening to the advice and wisdom of others. I will give it a light coat of polyurethane.
Plexiglass is definitely the way to go. I was able to finish the template in under 2 hours and now having figured out how to best work with the material could probably shave off 30 minutes.
For those thinking of making a template here are a few things I learned along the way.
The pattern clogs much less, I washed it down once per panel, the rectangles are better defined and have crisper edges. In addition the tools seem to glide over it better than the laminated bristol-board.
I knocked off 4 of these 15.5in x 76in side panels in about an hour twenty minutes. I can't see myself doing that with tape in that amount of time.
Only have the dividers to go and I can glue them up.
-andré-
Plexiglass is definitely the way to go. I was able to finish the template in under 2 hours and now having figured out how to best work with the material could probably shave off 30 minutes.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
For those thinking of making a template here are a few things I learned along the way.
- Trace out pattern on graph paper, glue it to plexiglass
- Use a sharp exacto
- place old cardboard box underneath to allow blade to complete go through material.
- Use short saw-like motion to make precise cuts and not go beyond cut lines.
- The verdict is still out on if you make one pass for all vertical cuts and one pass for all horizontal cuts. It may be quicker to make all cuts in one go.
The pattern clogs much less, I washed it down once per panel, the rectangles are better defined and have crisper edges. In addition the tools seem to glide over it better than the laminated bristol-board.
I knocked off 4 of these 15.5in x 76in side panels in about an hour twenty minutes. I can't see myself doing that with tape in that amount of time.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Only have the dividers to go and I can glue them up.
-andré-
Ha! Well, once again, life has a way to get in the way of life. Haven't been able to do too much speaker building as of late as kiddyroo was ill. Much better now. I now know more than I care about abdominal migraines... Didn't even know the condition existed. This being said, on the mend now so all is good.
Last two panels nearly done.
And a whole plethora of ENABLE Goodness.. (Pattern not crooked, two panels side by side)
The kind of thing pattern that could trigger a migraine or a seizure (so says my significant other...) Who is very supportive of speaker building mind you.
*Note must incorporate plant holders into next design.
If all goes well, I start to glue the cabinets together tonight.
-andré-
Last two panels nearly done.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
And a whole plethora of ENABLE Goodness.. (Pattern not crooked, two panels side by side)
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
The kind of thing pattern that could trigger a migraine or a seizure (so says my significant other...) Who is very supportive of speaker building mind you.
*Note must incorporate plant holders into next design.
If all goes well, I start to glue the cabinets together tonight.
-andré-
G'day andré,
Sorry to hear you're had illness in the family. Life interruptions are there to remind us about what's really important.
I agree with your significant other - the pattern does stuff to your mind.
Looking forward to your listening impressions once you get them built.
Cheers,
Alex
Sorry to hear you're had illness in the family. Life interruptions are there to remind us about what's really important.
I agree with your significant other - the pattern does stuff to your mind.
Looking forward to your listening impressions once you get them built.
Cheers,
Alex
BOO, may I strongly suggest that you use an acrylic plastic industrial grade floor wax rather than the polyester resin? If you have already applied the resin I would still recommend a coating of floor wax (the Gloss material in Ed's kits is exactly that, according to the re-bottler micro scale, who purchase it in 55 gallon drums) In addition, great idea!
X, if I may also, thank you for your open minded approach! I would like to present these utube snippets as a pictorial of Navier-Stokes on vibrating surfaces.
resonance - YouTube
resonance2 - YouTube
resonance4 - YouTube
resonance3 - YouTube
And then I would like to read any thoughts you may have about the emissivity character of the lateral flow in the first snippet. Be sure to turn up the volume, the discourse is a delight.
We have some wavelet analysis that shows an untreated driver with a clearly recurring pattern within a 4 ms window and an EnaBL'd driver that shows a lack of that event. Move your pointer off and on the pic to see a blink comparison of the two here.
Enable Tests
There is an argument of sorts about which should have "clearer" transients, with my point of view being that humans would experience the treated drivers lack of strongly reprinted emission as a single strike with decaying low level harmonious structures. This indicating that it is a perceptual phenomena, as opposed to one that a test result would show as superior.
Bud
X, if I may also, thank you for your open minded approach! I would like to present these utube snippets as a pictorial of Navier-Stokes on vibrating surfaces.
resonance - YouTube
resonance2 - YouTube
resonance4 - YouTube
resonance3 - YouTube
And then I would like to read any thoughts you may have about the emissivity character of the lateral flow in the first snippet. Be sure to turn up the volume, the discourse is a delight.
We have some wavelet analysis that shows an untreated driver with a clearly recurring pattern within a 4 ms window and an EnaBL'd driver that shows a lack of that event. Move your pointer off and on the pic to see a blink comparison of the two here.
Enable Tests
There is an argument of sorts about which should have "clearer" transients, with my point of view being that humans would experience the treated drivers lack of strongly reprinted emission as a single strike with decaying low level harmonious structures. This indicating that it is a perceptual phenomena, as opposed to one that a test result would show as superior.
Bud
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Hi Bud, thank you for your advice.
Can I use Future floor wax as I've seen it used in the same manner as the MicroScale product?
I came across it on a model airplane website.
Is it essentially the same thing?
F-15E Strike Eagle.com - How to use 'Future' Floor Wax
Easier to find than Micro scale (unless someone has a good source for it in Québec)
Thank you,
André
Can I use Future floor wax as I've seen it used in the same manner as the MicroScale product?
I came across it on a model airplane website.
Is it essentially the same thing?
F-15E Strike Eagle.com - How to use 'Future' Floor Wax
Easier to find than Micro scale (unless someone has a good source for it in Québec)
Thank you,
André
Hi Andre,
From what information I have this is the Gloss product. I haven't used it on speakers, since I have a large amount of Gloss from MicroScale and the fragrance covers over whatever the natural odor might be. I see no reason not to use it, but test it out on a chunk of dried block material before coating your panels with it.
Bud
From what information I have this is the Gloss product. I haven't used it on speakers, since I have a large amount of Gloss from MicroScale and the fragrance covers over whatever the natural odor might be. I see no reason not to use it, but test it out on a chunk of dried block material before coating your panels with it.
Bud
Brillant thanks Bud,
Last night's progress... removing enable pattern where divider is positioned.
-andré-
Last night's progress... removing enable pattern where divider is positioned.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
-andré-
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