MJK’s Jordan JX92S OB with a Goldwood GW-1858 Woofer in an H Frame

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I wanted to add a plate amplifier to the H frame I am currently building. Parts express has a amp with 6 dB of boost at 30 Hz, and an identical plate amp without the boost. Looks like there is no defeat on this option
Do I have to worry about boosting this much when this is so close to the drivers Fs
Thanks,
Paul
 
pforeman said:
I wanted to add a plate amplifier to the H frame I am currently building. Parts express has a amp with 6 dB of boost at 30 Hz, and an identical plate amp without the boost. Looks like there is no defeat on this option
Paul

Hi, this is not the answer to the important part of your question, but:
Where there's a wire, there's a way to get a switch in there
-- And there's also a way to get a potentiometer in there to tune the boost.
 
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pforeman said:
I wanted to add a plate amplifier to the H frame I am currently building. Parts express has a amp with 6 dB of boost at 30 Hz, and an identical plate amp without the boost. Looks like there is no defeat on this option
Do I have to worry about boosting this much when this is so close to the drivers Fs
Thanks,
Paul


If you are looking at the Dayton SA240 240W Subwoofer Amplifier you will find in the More Info tab a bass boost table listing on how to set any boost you want by changing the value of two resistors. I found the room and placement had more effect.

Craikg
 
I keep coming back to this thread to check the latest developments...

I am wondering if any of you have implemented this Goldwood woofer in an open baffle 3 way.
I would love to experiment with it but I've found that I don't like fiddling with bi-amping and active xo's and would like something with a passive xo that I can run from a single amp.

I am thinking of a BG NEO 3 run as a dipole for the top end, the Goldwood on the bottom and an "as yet to be named" midrange that would cover as much bandwidth as possible. I like the OB 3 way in another thread but it is WAY out of my price range.
 
Hi Martin,

My speakers are coming the way and I'm still struggling on either buying the 120A or the one that you have on originally.

Albert
 

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Hi Martin,

I decided to follow your design, using the Alpair 10 as i asked on the previous post.
I have this questions :

1. Is the baffle size is equal to the size of baffle of the woofer?
2. What would be ideal placement for the fullrange?
3. What if i put the ALpair on the center alignment with the woofer?

Thanks
Cheers
 
My speakers are coming the way and I'm still struggling on either buying the 120A or the one that you have on originally.

Hi Albert,

I have been listening to the F120A on and off now for a few months and have not been overly impressed. If I had to pick between the Jordan JX92S and the F120A, I would select the Jordan. The Jordan costs less and I believe sounds better.
 
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I decided to follow your design, using the Alpair 10 as i asked on the previous post.
I have this questions :

1. Is the baffle size is equal to the size of baffle of the woofer?
2. What would be ideal placement for the fullrange?
3. What if i put the ALpair on the center alignment with the woofer?

Hi Henry,

I believe that either the Alpair 10, Alpair 6, or the CHR-70 would all work well with the Goldwood H frame. I have not done the detailed design work so I do not know what baffle size, driver position, or crossover would be optimal. I think that there is an advantage to keeping the baffle size the same and offsetting the driver slightly in the baffle, that geometry is what dictated the crossover frequency and order so that the combined SPL respnse was flat on axis. If you change those variables you might need to rethink the crossover.
 
Hi Martin,


Would u mind guide me, which formula to calculate baffle size and driver offsetting?

I guess the Alpair is too small :D.

Im planning to use active crossover, either dbx 234 or behringer ultradrive, since im not that good on experimenting with crossover :p.

How about the baffle size of your JX92S? since i have jx92s, alpair 10, alpair 5, i might as well try it all :D.

cheers
 
Would u mind guide me, which formula to calculate baffle size and driver offsetting?

I cannot do the design work for you, I just don't have the time. I don't know of a simple formula to tell you how big of a baffle or how much to offset the driver. The only way I know how to do it is with simulations.


I guess the Alpair is too small :D.

Im planning to use active crossover, either dbx 234 or behringer ultradrive, since im not that good on experimenting with crossover :p.

I think that is a great idea, it will allow you to try all different kinds of crossovers at no cost to find the best combination. I would probably recommend the Behringer unit since it will allow you to vary the crossover slopes and frequencies. I believe the dbx unit might only allow you to change frequencies and locks you into the slopes, I think the dbx 234 uses 24 dB/octave. Spend a little more money for the Behringer, it will make your life easier and allow greater flexibility.


How about the baffle size of your JX92S? since i have jx92s, alpair 10, alpair 5, i might as well try it all

That would be a safe starting point in my opinion. You could also start smaller and add peices to the sides to make it bigger if small did not work. Building a new baffle to stand on top of an H frame is easy, quick, and cheap.
 
what size would be for your baffle?

since i cannot find it in your article.

thanks alot for replying, i know u have alot of things to do

The OB with the Jordan or Fostex driver is 20" x 20" and sits on top of the H frame. It is not attached so it can me moved forward and back and tilted towards the listener. The driver hole center is 7" from the insde edge and 9" from the top edge. The description of the OB dimansions can be found on page 7 of the original article under Project 8.
 
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