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Old 8th July 2007, 12:10 PM   #1
gychang is offline gychang  United States
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Default Mikasa, next?

After building several cabinets, I finally feel comfortable with a square cuts on MDF. (no table saw)

I was thinking about Harvey but like the Mikasa cabinet due to no angle cuts. I have one of my favorite "el cheapo" speaker laying around (4 1/2") with following specs.

Power capacity: 20W/30W RMS/peak
Sensitivity: 96dB (1W/1M)
Impedance: 8ohm
Re: 7.6ohm
Le: 0.25mH
Frequency response: 68Hz ~ 15KHz
Fs: 68Hz
Qts: 0.38
Qes: 0.47
Qms: 1.40
VAS (liters): 8.7
Xmax: 1.0mm

from http://www.mcminone.com/product.asp?...duct_id=51-075

Scottmoose, should I just follow the cookbook pdf file?

thanks for all your help.

gychang
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Old 8th July 2007, 03:27 PM   #2
gychang is offline gychang  United States
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Default mikasa question

on excellent file by Scottmoose, I am unclear on the behind the speaker chamber steps, the size of the plate is clearly given but the measurement of step down from the next plate is unclear, hope the attached file explains my dilemma.

thanks,

gychang
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Old 8th July 2007, 04:49 PM   #3
gychang is offline gychang  United States
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anyone know the measurement of the longitudinal triangular piece that goes on the back of the speaker chamber?

gychang
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Old 8th July 2007, 05:12 PM   #4
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wow Greg, all that without a table saw..Respect!

Ed
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Old 8th July 2007, 05:52 PM   #5
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Good question Greg. I sent a PM in response to your own, but in case anyone else is wondering:

If you look on the pdf file between the dimensioned diagram and the CAD render, you'll see a series of vertical lines with heights marked off. These give the respective distances of the ends of the stepped front panels from the top of the enclosure, and thus, the internal layout of the back-chamber.

Hope this helps
Scott

P.S. I haven't liked to mention this to Dave yet (in case he kills me), but I'm working on an alternative version of Mikasa, based on the Sachiko layout... this is the 1/2 space FR of the MCM unit in the new box. Not lacking for gain...
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Old 10th July 2007, 05:21 PM   #6
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I have revved Mikasa plans to add the information Greg was missing....

http://p10hifi.net/tlinespeakers/FH/...map-070707.pdf

dave
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Old 10th July 2007, 08:48 PM   #7
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Excellent. I tried to explain it to Greg, but I'm afraid my literary skills let me down. Guess I should stick to my protected & armoured cruisers and driving MathCad.
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Old 10th July 2007, 09:32 PM   #8
gychang is offline gychang  United States
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Quote:
Originally posted by planet10
I have revved Mikasa plans to add the information Greg was missing....

http://homepage.mac.com/tlinespeaker...map-070707.pdf

dave

Quote:
Originally posted by Scottmoose
Excellent. I tried to explain it to Greg, but I'm afraid my literary skills let me down. Guess I should stick to my protected & armoured cruisers and driving MathCad.

Plant10 and Scottmoose:

thanks for letting me continue this madness of building better mousetrap, (sorry speakers).

Exactly what I needed...

Dave, what is the size of the triangular piece that goes on behind the speaker cabinet? 2"??

Greg (gychang)
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Old 10th July 2007, 09:47 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally posted by gychang
what is the size of the triangular piece that goes on behind the speaker cabinet? 2"??
That is still SWAG. It wasn't in Scott's original plan, and not enuff experiments have been done to fine tune it... it should be sized to smooth the cross-section of that 1st 1 to 2 bifircation...

dave
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Old 11th July 2007, 02:09 AM   #10
gychang is offline gychang  United States
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Quote:
Originally posted by planet10


That is still SWAG. It wasn't in Scott's original plan, and not enuff experiments have been done to fine tune it... it should be sized to smooth the cross-section of that 1st 1 to 2 bifircation...

dave

not sure what this means..., should I try 2" width and 1" height?

gychang
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