Hello,
I want to build an Sachiko. But which would be the best chassis for this cabinet (I don't like the fostex fe206e because of it's frame-style
).
So have searched for this alternatives:
Audio Nirvana Super 8 (maybe the cast frame)
Fostex FE206ES-R
Hemp FR810HQ
Lyeco LY802F
Supravox HP215RFT64
So, are these alternatives equal for the Sachiko or are there some "no goes"?
Thanks
Armin
I want to build an Sachiko. But which would be the best chassis for this cabinet (I don't like the fostex fe206e because of it's frame-style
).So have searched for this alternatives:
Audio Nirvana Super 8 (maybe the cast frame)
Fostex FE206ES-R
Hemp FR810HQ
Lyeco LY802F
Supravox HP215RFT64
So, are these alternatives equal for the Sachiko or are there some "no goes"?
Thanks
Armin
You are obviopusly a man of taste and decency.
OK, the Lyeco & Supravox are out -Q is too high for this cabinet. The Hemp is borderline, though again Q is a little high, and it wouldn't be my first choice.
The FE206ES-R works very well: there's already a pair of Sachiko's using them to good effect. And the Audio Nirvana Super8 cast-frame should work fine too. For myself, I never found the FE206E as unattractive as all that though...
Hope this helps
Scott
OK, the Lyeco & Supravox are out -Q is too high for this cabinet. The Hemp is borderline, though again Q is a little high, and it wouldn't be my first choice.
The FE206ES-R works very well: there's already a pair of Sachiko's using them to good effect. And the Audio Nirvana Super8 cast-frame should work fine too. For myself, I never found the FE206E as unattractive as all that though...
Hope this helps
Scott
I thought you liked the ANS8 cast frame & 206ES-R? As I say, those will work fine. The FE208ESigma (you'd need to add a tweeter to that -the FT17 is a nice unit, and not particularly expensive) should do a decent job too.
Q is not the only factor, but it's one of the most significant ones. Vas and Re are also important. As a rule, the higher the Vas, the larger the cabinet you'll need. Re also affects the shape of the response.
Best
Scott
Q is not the only factor, but it's one of the most significant ones. Vas and Re are also important. As a rule, the higher the Vas, the larger the cabinet you'll need. Re also affects the shape of the response.
Best
Scott
finished
Hello,
so I had finished my Sachiko's with the Audio Nirvana Cast Frame
Greetings
Armin
Hello,
so I had finished my Sachiko's with the Audio Nirvana Cast Frame
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Greetings
Armin
DOH!
Today I was in a wood store.... i asked for finnish birch plywood and they want 450 euros....
Definitely to much for my money. Sad, but true.
Anybody can say me wich kind of wood could I use for a good sonic performance at a more human cost?
(ps: I find mdf not so actrattive.... veneered, more cheap alternatives?)
Could I alternate birch with other wood in the same cabinet?
Thank anybody for answers
Today I was in a wood store.... i asked for finnish birch plywood and they want 450 euros....
Definitely to much for my money. Sad, but true.
Anybody can say me wich kind of wood could I use for a good sonic performance at a more human cost?
(ps: I find mdf not so actrattive.... veneered, more cheap alternatives?)
Could I alternate birch with other wood in the same cabinet?
Thank anybody for answers
That's could be an idea.... but the side/rear panels are big and I could save only a few money.
What's the result using mdf for side-rear panels (obviously less fashionable, but I must wait the day that I become rich! )
and russian birch ply for baffle / horn panels?
BUT
I've read that mdf can sound harder and harsher.... (but particleboard is to horrible outside the cabinet!!)
Isn't true?
Ps:Thanks Scott
What's the result using mdf for side-rear panels (obviously less fashionable, but I must wait the day that I become rich!
)and russian birch ply for baffle / horn panels?
BUT
I've read that mdf can sound harder and harsher.... (but particleboard is to horrible outside the cabinet!!)
Isn't true?
Ps:Thanks Scott
MDF can sound a bit harsh. However, you should be able to use it to decent effect for the side panels if you go to 1 1/4in thick material (laminate 1/2in to 3/4in), which will push its natural resonance below the passband of the horn. Not as good as ply -its not as stiff, and stores energy, but it shouldn't sound too bad. You should then be able to use a mixture of particleboard & MDF for the other panels, probably the latter for the top & bottom, and the former for everything else. Once painted or veneered the aesthetics of the base material become a moot point.
I'll check for marine plywood. A cabinet that "dont sound to bad" isn't my goal.. No mdf for my next son!
I'll go for a bank robbery for plywood.
(No others good smaller project that could have a lesser amount of wood - minor dimensions - less expensive?)
I appreciate your patient support..thanks
I'll go for a bank robbery for plywood.
(No others good smaller project that could have a lesser amount of wood - minor dimensions - less expensive?)
I appreciate your patient support..thanks
Hi,
for the visible parts I take birch multiplex (sandwich wood) and for the non visible parts I take mdf. For the wood I paid 200 Euro.
The sound is great (enough bass).
I had no measurement equipment (maybe later I would try some electrical or damping "tuning").
In the german "hifi-forum" I read that the AN needs a horn width from 45cm (maybe I will also try a larger blind). I also had a pair of Fostexs 206 (with the phase plugs from planet10), I also will try them.
But at the moment I am happy with the result and I want first enjoy it
Greetings
Armin
for the visible parts I take birch multiplex (sandwich wood) and for the non visible parts I take mdf. For the wood I paid 200 Euro.
The sound is great
(enough bass).I had no measurement equipment (maybe later I would try some electrical or damping "tuning").
In the german "hifi-forum" I read that the AN needs a horn width from 45cm
(maybe I will also try a larger blind). I also had a pair of Fostexs 206 (with the phase plugs from planet10), I also will try them.But at the moment I am happy with the result and I want first enjoy it
Greetings
Armin
I was today in the wood shop. They offer me a combination of poplar plywood (for side/ rear panels) and russian birch ply (for small internal panels) for a reasonable prize... better than mdf, isn't?
With poplar could return on the Sachiko project...but I'm not sure it will sound so good. Maybe over-bracing the panels would be an option?
Your experience is gold.
With poplar could return on the Sachiko project...but I'm not sure it will sound so good. Maybe over-bracing the panels would be an option?
Your experience is gold.
francorovereto said:
I have used hardibacker, (1/4" cement base layer) (used for tile, resistant to bending and moisture) for this purpose in places not readily visible from outside, originally suggested by Bob Brines, seems to work to silence the resonance. I cut with utility knife as needed (don't use electric saw - dust is bad) and glue it with "liquid nails".
gychang
Attachments
The polar & Russian Birch sounds like a winner, providing the poplar is void free. If it isn't, you'd be better off using MDF for those panels; either 1 1/4in thick (3/4in bonded to 1/2in), or 1in, built up from 3/4in MDF bonded to 1/4in of cement board, as Bob does in his MLTL & (I think) BR boxes. The cement board / MDF combination is a good idea -I wouldn't want to make all the panels of a BLH out of it, but it should do fine for the side & rear panels, with the rest made of the birch ply.
It's not that unusual a combination. Back in the 1950s, solid concrete enclosures were often seen in high-end setups, as were cabinets made from breeze-blocks. For e.g. Badmaieff shows a room with huge, 18ft x 4ft x 4ft sealed enclosures (3 walls, top & bottom solid concrete, the front heavily braced 1in ply) built into it in his & Davis's book. Dated from the mid 1960s IIRC.
It's not that unusual a combination. Back in the 1950s, solid concrete enclosures were often seen in high-end setups, as were cabinets made from breeze-blocks. For e.g. Badmaieff shows a room with huge, 18ft x 4ft x 4ft sealed enclosures (3 walls, top & bottom solid concrete, the front heavily braced 1in ply) built into it in his & Davis's book. Dated from the mid 1960s IIRC.
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