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Old 11th June 2002, 02:53 AM   #11
Thomas is offline Thomas  Denmark
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I use a tip cleaner/tinner. It's a small cup of something I dip the tip in. I think the stuff is made of tin and acid, but I'm not shure. Then I clean the tip in a wet sponge. Allways use demineralised water.

Anyone using Kester 2% silver solder (62% tin 36% lead 2% silver) ?
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Old 11th June 2002, 02:56 AM   #12
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I think that's what I'm using sometimes.
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Old 11th June 2002, 05:08 AM   #13
JoeBob is offline JoeBob  Canada
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I guess I do things the most half-assed around here... I wipe my soldering iron on a rag. Wroks well enough for me, sometimes I even wet it so I don't constantly burn it, but only someitmes.

As for what tools are the most usefull I'd have to say that a drill press makes building a chasis a whole lot faster and easier, I just got one myself, and now I don't know how I got along without it.

Unless of course you meant for speaker building, then a router or radial arm saw would be more usefull (or should I say indespensable).
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Old 11th June 2002, 05:21 AM   #14
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I must agree that if you are really serious about your chassis drill press is something you really need. Not only for drilling holes, but for countersinking and tapping (when you can afford Tapmatic )
Next tool to get is a band saw. Both of those items are relatively cheap and you can expect to pay as low as $100 for either one.
And when you are into speakers a router is a must.
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Old 11th June 2002, 06:31 AM   #15
fcel is offline fcel  United States
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Band saw is for cutting metal sheets? This time I won't ask for part number & vendor name!
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Old 11th June 2002, 12:38 PM   #16
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Default flux ?

Guys,

When I am soldering I use a small artist paint brush to put a little bit of flux (looks like vaseline) onto each component's wire first. Now after the soldering and trimming of the wire I see a little biy of melted flux overflow to the next track on the PCB. Do I have to remove those extra flux? If it is best to clean them please tell me what can I use and how? What effects it will have amp with it on the PCB if I left them other than does not look good?

Thanks in advance,
Chris
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Old 11th June 2002, 02:00 PM   #17
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Skip the flux thing!

Normal soldering metal has flux inside and in sufficient amount. Flux is only needed when you solder large metal pieces.

Just give the time for the soldering iron to warm up so the flux can do good. Also not too hot iron. 300-350 deg C is normal. Don't use too cold either because the soldering process will take longer and the joint won't get better.

Some flux is corrosive and must be removed but you have to read on the label for the flux.
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Old 11th June 2002, 02:34 PM   #18
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Chris,
You can remove flux with "Flux remover" or " Contact cleaner" even Varsol works (use brush or a rug). You can get those things from Active Components or Sayal.
I also use liquid rosin flux, but only on joints that don't look good (they are not shiny).
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Old 11th June 2002, 03:03 PM   #19
panos29 is offline panos29  Greece
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Default shopping time!

I always clean the excess flux remaining on my boards, using pure acetone found localy in farmacies. The one that is used from my girlfriend to remove her nail paint! Its the best and quickest I have ever used! Though, u have to ask for pure acetone as sometimes they sell also some acetone containing oil which is not desirable at all.
I am cleaning the tip using !!!moist kitchen paper!!!
I use to soldering irons 1. Antex 25W and 2. Ersa 35W
For solder I used to use Billiton 60/40 for a long time, but eventually I tried Multicore Sn62 (tin62/lead36/silver2) for about 18euros/500gr, and I am alot more satisfied from the quality and the looks of the solder on the pcb(alot more shinny and solid).

As for drilling, if u are into chasis construction a drill press is a mast. I found out that after a long time though, when I went to buy a press (small one) for my bosch electric drill and costed 55euros while a complete (including motor) press only costed 60euros! I bought the complete press (from Praktiker) and I am happy ever after...
I also use a bosch 12v drill and small cheap "rooter" to 30.000rpm for grinding.

Regards

Panos
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Old 11th June 2002, 03:24 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally posted by fcel
Band saw is for cutting metal sheets?
While I like to use band saw for sheet metal, anything over 1/4" is pretty hard to cut. In that case I'm using 10" compound mitre saw with non-ferrous metals blade. For me that's the best way to cut anything up to 8" wide and 4" thick. I even cut large heat sinks in that manner. Your piece must be properly clamped though.
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