small hole circle router jig, with pictures

[tinitus]

I have long been missing a jig for smaller drivers, and finally I made one

I havent tested it yet, but I suppose it works ok

[tinitus]

A few more details

[pjp]

Your photos are too small to see.

[tinitus]

Originally Posted by pjp

Your photos are too small to see.

I will try to make them larger

[tinitus]

Ok,

[kavermei]

Hi,

I made a similar jig for small holes too. I find that it works fine until you get below a diameter of 10cm or so (think amplifier front panels). Then I prefer a hole saw in a drill press.

What's your experience with routing <10cm holes?

Kenneth

[tinitus]

Originally Posted by kavermei

Hi,


What's your experience with routing <10cm holes?

Kenneth

I tried it yesterday, and it works like a charm
You only need a few stop and go, with grip changes
Practice a bit, and you can do it in your sleep

Mind you, I usually dont take more than a few mm depth at a time

[tvrgeek]

I have built a couple of hole gigs with a sliding bar with the pin brazed in it. Next time I think I'll add a threaded adjustment rod over the bar for more precise adjustment. I just make a baffle panel using a Jasper jig. My only complaint is it is in 1/16 increments and we really should have at least 1/32 inch. It sure is easy to set up and trust the numbers.

[thaumaturge]

Using a collar and an oversized overlay template works very well, as well. Can get down to very small hole size. Maybe use your jig to cut some themplates?
Doc

[cyclecamper]

Originally Posted by thaumaturge

Using a collar and an oversized overlay template works very well, as well. Can get down to very small hole size.

That sounds like what I use for recessed cabinet handles and jack plates. No stopping to change grip, as the router handles remain positioned the same as I route around the template. Of course, that also works on non-circular shapes. Changing collar size or router bit size changes the offset and thus the size of what's being cut.

I make my templates, then I drive two slightly longer small-diameter brads thru the template with my air-nailer. That secures the template in position for the first cut. For subsequent cuts I just lay the template down and tap it in place with a hammer to set the thin brad pins again without noticeable damage (after filling and painting the teensie holes).

For larger shapes, I should have made my templates larger with broader flat areas for the router to sit on, which makes it easier to keep the router vertical without tipping.