remove saa7030

[tubee]

Hi Leo
Allways beautiful such a view over a original S2! I never made it that far, only 6 pieces of "A" ordered in a group buy here. They where intended for my four x 1541 dac project, data fed to them by shift registers. Something like EC does now. Putted 2 dacs in it, hooked Pedja's AD844 I/V on it, only humm The only thing wat happened; LM317/337 PS followed by 12 shunts became Not everything here works instant.

Thanks for encouraging words, will try Pedja's design on a single Nonos 1541 some time. Have a spare XO lying around, and some plastic Magnavoxes/Aristona's

But not now, at the moment i am building on vero an ELF preamp for a subwoofer. Case is ready, woofer for free, in a shop they wanted to throw away a 15 inch celestion speaker!

 

[LTK]

Hi Tubee,

When I tried the passive I/V stage and tube buffer I used 2 x TDA1541's

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.

I did try 2 x TDA1541 with AD844 common base but preferred single dac chip better where as the dual dacs was better with tube output stage.

Did you manage to null the DC before the AD844?

good luck with the ELF pre

 

[tubee]

Thats a good hint Leo, the nulling! I did'nt do that at the time i think! Will look it over.

Btw the sub is going to be something like ESP pages: http://sound.westhost.com/project48.htm
The cabinet has a netto capacity of +/- 65L, closed, but under woofer is place for an eventueal 2 by 38 cm basreflexport. And when i am lucky i can get for a very nice price a 400W PA amp, transistor is smoked, must be repaired.

I don't really need a sub in stereo (can get 26 hz) but with DVD some low end volume can be very awesome: Lift off of apollo 13 / dinosaurs thumping / Alien coming out of the ground in War of the worlds!
Have a Marantz surround amp with pre out on my stereo amp. Back and center are fed by the Marantz.
<- avatar, are the suround speakers.

 

[LTK]

Hi Tubee,

yes check the DC, you have to use Pedja's nulling circuit, I got mine to stay at 0.1mV DC and it sounds clean,dynamic etc, higher than about 10mV DC on the AD844 and it starts clipping and distorting.

I use a pair of IPL S3tlm ribbon speakers, theres no need for a sub in my room
I have several different diy amps and any give me enough power for my needs.
I'm sure your sub will provide lots of clout for those movies when its finished

Very nice speakers btw! my IPL's still need veneering

 

[tubee]

Leo, nice speaker your TL: http://www.iplacoustics.co.uk/IPL S3TL M TRANSMISSIONLINE.htm
So it uses an 18 cm Seas. It deserves a good veneer, and danisch oil finisch can give a beautiful result.

I have an old 20cm Audax in a sort of Mass loaded TQWT. Goes also deep, but i want to reach 20Hz for the movies indeed. The cone starts to hit when the aliens come out of their hiding place at reasonable volume.

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.

 

[LTK]

Hi Tubee,

These are the ones I have http://www.iplacoustics.co.uk/s3tlm Ribb Magnesium.htm
The ones with magnesium driver and ribbon tweeters
Your finish is excellent, well done I hope I can get mine looking half as nice

Thank you for the tip, the main thing I need to do is get the things veneered, I've been putting it off for too long now.

The big sub your building should be able to rattle the furniture

 

[tubee]

Hi Leo

It looks like allmost a chat here (i never have used msn or how is it called nowadays, and never will because i like Linux )

The speakers (bad photograph) are finisched with laquer. It bleaches unfortunately in the sun too. Danisch oil is better i think.
I have seen you still can get ironing veneer on the other side of the Northsea. This in not available anymore here. Ironingveneer is more easy to applicate. If you want some hints and "online" helping hands ask me if you need. The work you must do yourself

Btw here is the thread of my surroundspeakers:http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=81936&highlight=

 

[LTK]

Hi Tubee,

Yes, it is like a chat room, sorry guys

I'll use the Danish oil if thats what you recommend.
I really appreciate you offering to give me tips regarding the veneering thank you when I finally get the time to start it and if I run into problems I'll let you know!
Iron on veneer is still available over here, it can be my next project as soon as the weather is better

I'll have a read through your surroundspeakers now

Cheers,
Leo

 

[tubee]

Leo here is a nice thread about veneering, different members declare their methods:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=88834&highlight=
Your speakers are rectangular, so quite easy to do.

 

[Aronier]

Hello,

i need a little help from you guy´s, i have a Philips CD 150 and would like to make the NOS mod.

I remove the saa7030 and connect the following with wire.

Pin20 DLCF to Pin3 DLFD.
Pin17 DRCF to Pin10 DRFD.
Pin18 /CLCF to Pin6 /CLFD.
Pin21 STR1 to Pin7 LAT.

But is my saa7000 in 14bit mode for the 1540´s or need i a 1K resistance at pin 16 for 5V?

Regards

Aronier

 

[lcsaszar]

Yes, you need a pull-up for 14-bit mode.

 

[Aronier]

Now i have a problem, the CD150 doesnt has the SAA7000, it has saa7010, 7020, & removed 7030.

Is the saa7010 same as saa7000?

And what need the 7010 for the TDA1540 14bit?

Thanks.

Aronier

 

[rfbrw]

In short,you reformat the signals into a form acceptable by a SPDIF transmitter, in this case a CS8402.

Bah! Total waste of time. A lot of work for truly mediocre sound.

 

[tiefbassuebertr]

Who knows the different between SAA7010 and SAA7011? go to
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/digital-source/137924-replacing-saa7011-marantz-cd63.html#post2324589

 

[noyan]

Philips CD104 with PCM56 dac?

I am wondering after non os mod of the CD104, if i connect an external dac with PCM56, is it work or not? I mean, on the datasheet of the PCM56, input frequency was specified as minimum 10mHz. CD104 quartz frequency is 4.2336 MHz. Does it make problem?
Thanks