Marantz CD63 & CD67 mods list

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Fidelity Audio

Fidelity Audio

Member
Joined 2005
fidelityaudio.co.uk
philpoole said:


Simon, if you use the rail that feeds the originally 5v reg than it should be less than 20vdc (I can't remember the exact figure). Using a lower voltage should make the job of the regulator easier - but it should be a bit higher than 5v so the reg works properly.
The regulator would get hotter otherwise, wasting current.

Cheers,
Phil
Click to expand...

Its best to use the AC from the TX ans use seperate diodes for supplying the regs. This way you are isolating the DC from other DC.
It also makes it easier when you want to stick an extra TX in there.

Brent
 
M

mickie

Member
Joined 2006
Hello again,
... i could use some advice at the following: I recently replaced the mentioned resistors with the chokes in my cd67 which unforunately gave me a blurry, softened, kind of smeared sound with a lack of dynamics and precision.....
Any of you experienced something like that?
Maybe i should just shorten some of them (R613-616; RD 01,04)?
Or moving up to better resistors....?

Regards,

mickie
 
SimontY

SimontY

Member
Joined 2003
diymediahome.org
mickie said:
Hello again,
... i could use some advice at the following: I recently replaced the mentioned resistors with the chokes in my cd67 which unforunately gave me a blurry, softened, kind of smeared sound with a lack of dynamics and precision.....
Any of you experienced something like that?
Maybe i should just shorten some of them (R613-616; RD 01,04)?
Or moving up to better resistors....?

Regards,

mickie
Click to expand...

Oops, that sounds bad! Do you know the dc resistance of the chokes used?
 
SimontY

SimontY

Member
Joined 2003
diymediahome.org
I've seen that before, I noticed this:

RESISTOR FOR LASER ON:
R136 JUMPER

Anyone done that?

I'm sorry Mickie but I don't know what your problem is. Maybe you just need to let the player settle, for a few hours or more. I know I can get shot down for this but I find after being messed with it takes a little while of being on for the full sound quality to be heard.
 
Fidelity Audio

Fidelity Audio

Member
Joined 2005
fidelityaudio.co.uk
Mickie

Do you still have the one 5v reg?

What you need to do is ditch the inductors and go for seperate 5v rails.
This way you eliminate one circuit polluting the other and getting much better sound quality (brighter more open better channel seperation etc etc).

Also having a direct 5v supply to ic inputs will give you full current supply. No nasty resistors or inductors in the way.

Don't waste anymore time doing this mate.

Brent
 
Fidelity Audio

Fidelity Audio

Member
Joined 2005
fidelityaudio.co.uk
SimontY said:
I've seen that before, I noticed this:

RESISTOR FOR LASER ON:
R136 JUMPER

Anyone done that?

I'm sorry Mickie but I don't know what your problem is. Maybe you just need to let the player settle, for a few hours or more. I know I can get shot down for this but I find after being messed with it takes a little while of being on for the full sound quality to be heard.
Click to expand...

The standard KI took about 20 mins to get its self warmed up, now it needs a good hour.

Brent
 
SimontY

SimontY

Member
Joined 2003
diymediahome.org
mickie said:
Hi rowemeister,

...frankly: Exactly this is what i'm thinking about for quiet some time now but i'm afraid not to have enough clue to do this right; i will need some kind of "painting-by numbers" instructions here....:xeye:

mickie
Click to expand...

There are lots of us that don't know more than the basics and find this sort of work hard. I'm plucking up the courage to mess with additional psu rails in mine, and if anyone's interested I'll post enough photos to show exactly what's what, and say which parts go where etc.
 
P

philpoole

Member
Joined 2004
RESISTOR FOR LASER ON:
R136 JUMPER
Click to expand...
Is this shorting the resistor to increase the laser current? Surely this will shorten the laser lifespan? My CD player is getting on a bit, but if it works, and I have a replacement part....

Mickie, building regulators is easy. Do you have the service manual, there is an example of how to wire up a regulator in there (look for the 7805 part). The hardest part is finding where to wire up the outputs on the board, but you're halfway there because the power rails have these inductors on them.
Cheers,
Phil
 
6h5c

6h5c

Member
Joined 2004
raylectronics.nl/index_en.html
mickie said:
Thanks,
the chokes also supposed to be 220uH; i did about 70% of the mods by now using blackgates all over; maybe there is too much HF-suppression now? The Ferrites...?

I'd like to try shortening the resistors (some guy recommended that; http://www.audioasylum.com/audio/tweaks/messages/6498.html )

Can i damage something doing this?

mickie
Click to expand...

Hi Mickie,

The chokes are o.k., just leave everything as it is.
If you used Black Gates all over the place, give them some time to break in. At least a week, maybe two, with frequent listening every day.
Don't judge the sound immediately after a mod, especially with BG's. They need a loooong time to sound good.

After a while you can decide if you want to go on, and what to do next. But give it some time, otherwise you won't know which part of a mod is responsible for which sound....

Regards,

Ray.
 
Fidelity Audio

Fidelity Audio

Member
Joined 2005
fidelityaudio.co.uk
6h5c said:


Hi Mickie,

The chokes are o.k., just leave everything as it is.
If you used Black Gates all over the place, give them some time to break in. At least a week, maybe two, with frequent listening every day.
Don't judge the sound immediately after a mod, especially with BG's. They need a loooong time to sound good.

After a while you can decide if you want to go on, and what to do next. But give it some time, otherwise you won't know which part of a mod is responsible for which sound....

Regards,

Ray.
Click to expand...

I reckon now I could tell someone which bit to mod for a particular improvement or what mods been done by what the modder has found from his sound. :bigeyes:

Your mods don't count Ray I have not heard tubes etc :(

Brent
 
6h5c

6h5c

Member
Joined 2004
raylectronics.nl/index_en.html
philpoole said:

Is this shorting the resistor to increase the laser current? Surely this will shorten the laser lifespan?

Cheers,
Phil
Click to expand...

No, it will not increase laser current. This resistor is merely in series with the +5V that runs to the optical unit, for protection in case of short circuit. I don't see what jumpering this will bring :confused:.
Laser current is regulated by means of a feedback diode.

If you want to increase the laser current, get a scope and measure the amplitude of the HF signal on testpoint 9 or 11, and adjust it with the small trimmer on the back of the optical unit.

Ray.
 
M

mickie

Member
Joined 2006
Hello Ray,
.. i have some experience with the BG (indeed, i found they need about 1000 hours to break in to sound neutral) and i did the mods step by step to see in which direction i'm moving; as for the chokes, i experienced the "problem" after installing these.
I have to admit, its not that bad as it appears.... but....it slightly degraded sound for some reason.
Maybe not all of them? I suspect the ones near the DAC and the Op-Amps....i'm still confused.
I did some experiments with ferrites in the past on my mains-power-cable and i had a similar effect: smeared, blurry sound.

OK, i still have to bypass HDAM (op-Amps are BB 627 which i borrowed to test)

Maybe things will be "clearing up" on their own...;)

mickie
 
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