http://www.hiwtc.com/photo/products/21/00/30/3090.jpg
http://atomicspacejunk.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/04/realisticreceiver1.jpg
https://www.myu.umn.edu/metadot/ind...ld_name=item_attachment_file&op=download_file
With a large opening at the rear and a mesh it looks nice and stays cool.
http://atomicspacejunk.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/04/realisticreceiver1.jpg
https://www.myu.umn.edu/metadot/ind...ld_name=item_attachment_file&op=download_file
With a large opening at the rear and a mesh it looks nice and stays cool.
"Why the talk of op-amps Shep? If you have the DOS then you have no op-amps in your circuit. And no op-amp is better than a fine discrete circuit in terms of audio"
What can I say? Egg on my face...I wear my ignorance like a shroud.
Thanks Mathieu.That's exactly what I had in mind, including the grill on the top. I think only the Mac is real wood. The other is verneer. The third image doesn't open.
What can I say? Egg on my face...I wear my ignorance like a shroud.
Thanks Mathieu.That's exactly what I had in mind, including the grill on the top. I think only the Mac is real wood. The other is verneer. The third image doesn't open.
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Hi Stabby,
The reversing of diodes and caps refers to the small regulator PCB that's shown on my LM317 page. It's one PCB for both the positive and negative version, so you'll have to reverse the caps and diodes on that board if you use an LM337 instead of an LM317.
The 30 ohm beads will do fine, as long as they fit around the inductor's wire.
Regards,
Ray
So ! how does it sound now after 50hrs? That is the question n'est ce pas. I will spare you verbiage. After all this is thru a low powered T-amp trying its best with inefficient speakers so...well for starters it sounds like I went from 4 cylinders to 6 (volage increase, lots more bigger caps?) The sound is still bit ragged but promising. What I do like is how the sound stage as fleshed out. Kind of like going from good a good animation to the real thing (film analogy), with a bigger sense of space and more tactile imagery. The T-amp doesn't do space very convincingly and is short of real grunt and definition in the bass so I expect all will change dramatically when I put my amp back (soon) and the break-in has gone on. The real improvement is in the sense of having a whole new engine waiting to be fed higher octane. Couldn't resist giving you a blow-by-blow account
That is an interesting progress report... aside from the fact higher octane fuel is only more resistant to detonation, not inherently a power-adding force 
Your raggedness is not the CD67, I am 95% confident of this. It will get smoother but I'm not convinced it will EVER be a relaxing and soothing sound when paired with a T-amp. Those amps are good value and give a wide open and detailed presentation but ultimately it's a harsh and irritating sound... at least from what I've heard. Talking of which are you still hanging around here Steve?? It's Steve's modded CD67 and T-amp I've heard and whilst it REALLY impresses at first it's a bit thin and artificial once your ears acclimatise. My opinion, not fact.
Your raggedness is not the CD67, I am 95% confident of this. It will get smoother but I'm not convinced it will EVER be a relaxing and soothing sound when paired with a T-amp. Those amps are good value and give a wide open and detailed presentation but ultimately it's a harsh and irritating sound... at least from what I've heard. Talking of which are you still hanging around here Steve?? It's Steve's modded CD67 and T-amp I've heard and whilst it REALLY impresses at first it's a bit thin and artificial once your ears acclimatise. My opinion, not fact.
That's very much what I found too. I had a really nicely done T-Amp here which I modded and whilst it was very clean and clear it didn't do bass very well and sounded thin to my ears.
Lee.
That is an interesting progress report... aside from the fact higher octane fuel is only more resistant to detonation, not inherently a power-adding force
Your raggedness is not the CD67, I am 95% confident of this. It will get smoother but I'm not convinced it will EVER be a relaxing and soothing sound when paired with a T-amp. Those amps are good value and give a wide open and detailed presentation but ultimately it's a harsh and irritating sound... at least from what I've heard. Talking of which are you still hanging around here Steve?? It's Steve's modded CD67 and T-amp I've heard and whilst it REALLY impresses at first it's a bit thin and artificial once your ears acclimatise. My opinion, not fact.
Mine differs, but it may be according to wich SS/Tubes amps you were playing with prior to your class D experience. Remeber I'm ultra poor, and when it comes to low-price/perf T-amp does it.
As for octane, I know engines wich does output less power with greater octane rate. (flame front speed differs then best torque not applied to the cranckshat's lever arm at the best angle).
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Funny bunch you are. The high octane thing was just a crude analogy (I don't need any more egg on my face after the op-amp slip-up...which Brent COULD have corrected me on without it becoming publically apparent I am a dumb ****** (Malefoda a ****** c'est un vrais con) there are t-amps and then there are t-amps and some are very nice but no way in hell can this one compete with my super modded ICE amp, which is a wee giant killer. This one just a stand-in and I accept that I will have no idea how the 67 sounds until I get mine back, but there are strong indictions that I will be a happy camper.
Ahh apparently I'm not allowed to use a good old english word which is spelled the same as wank-er. Tiresome censor.
This is a wee bit off topic but our cdp's are useless in isolation and their sound, no matter how modified, is in direct proportion to what they are connected to. (and the end result is pretty subjective and hard to describe with words on a screen) When this is settled down I will do another comparison with my neighbors Teac/VDac/tube set-up and see if it still slays that rig.
Ahh apparently I'm not allowed to use a good old english word which is spelled the same as wank-er. Tiresome censor.
This is a wee bit off topic but our cdp's are useless in isolation and their sound, no matter how modified, is in direct proportion to what they are connected to. (and the end result is pretty subjective and hard to describe with words on a screen) When this is settled down I will do another comparison with my neighbors Teac/VDac/tube set-up and see if it still slays that rig.
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Matthieu, I've never had a tube amp, only owned a Sherwood receiver (A/B solid), Roksan Kandy (A/B solid), Roksan Caspian (A/B solid), LM3886 DIY chip amp (class B chip), Marantz MA500s (monoblocks class A/B solid) and Carlsbro PA amp (class A/B solid).
Currently the rig is bass on modded Carlsbro amp and mid & tweet on LM3886. There's no trace of the class T problems and not a tube or class A beast in sight.... though a class A amp would deliver quite the opposite of the T-amps in some areas (ie weak areas replaced by strong yet both delivering much detail and openness). As far as I can hear the closer you are to class A the better an amp is likely to sound (other variables blurring this "truth" to varying degrees.) Amps like Brent has (mostly class A) or Lee has (again, mostly class A) show, to my ears, that it's the only way to go. Only time I've heard Pass Aleph amps I also felt it was 100% correct with no weakness. From the few dozen amps or systems I've heard it seems unless it's class A (or maybe at least very low crossover distortion - as maybe attained by the LM3886 and similar good power op-amps) you just don't get the natural life in the midrange, an open sound or natural detailing. It will always be a bit compressed and nasal with somewhat etched and tiresome transients and sibilants.
Currently the rig is bass on modded Carlsbro amp and mid & tweet on LM3886. There's no trace of the class T problems and not a tube or class A beast in sight.... though a class A amp would deliver quite the opposite of the T-amps in some areas (ie weak areas replaced by strong yet both delivering much detail and openness). As far as I can hear the closer you are to class A the better an amp is likely to sound (other variables blurring this "truth" to varying degrees.) Amps like Brent has (mostly class A) or Lee has (again, mostly class A) show, to my ears, that it's the only way to go. Only time I've heard Pass Aleph amps I also felt it was 100% correct with no weakness. From the few dozen amps or systems I've heard it seems unless it's class A (or maybe at least very low crossover distortion - as maybe attained by the LM3886 and similar good power op-amps) you just don't get the natural life in the midrange, an open sound or natural detailing. It will always be a bit compressed and nasal with somewhat etched and tiresome transients and sibilants.
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Well my best piece of audio is... my CD-43!
As for amp I've never had great gear: a poor Arcam Alpha One I give a score (subjective to my xp) of 10/20, 11/20 when modded ( http://img145.imageshack.us/img145/3020/dscn1529ai0.jpg ), a chinese sweet rusty case, G&W 2006X something, 14/20 ( http://img178.imageshack.us/img178/852/tw20068lp0.jpg ), nice bass and overall sound, sold to live, then a given Aura VA100, 14/20 also ( http://img216.imageshack.us/img216/7581/aurava100evomod.jpg ) and then a (cheap and badly done) Williamson KT88, 9/20 then 11/20 when modded. Playing OB and vintage speakers I wanted a simple amp to "try", then a TA2024 wich, with my mods and not before, OsCon SP, PPS and such, was handling my DM4 better in bass region, wich means that they did bass for the first time! 14.5/20 on this one modded, but far more suitable with my DM4 for now.
I must admit that the flaw this ultra tiny Tripath amp has is a slight lack of matter in mids/high mids. Hope the TK2050 I have will do better, and I defo want to try, under better skies, the 41Hz Trupath. The Aura will be put on sale, as a Yamaha A500 amp wich can be sold 50€ when it scores 10/20 but being very boring sounding. It's very budget related and I want to put most of my futur € on the speakers, change the TK2050 for something else when/if my OB will be finished, or for a second OB project (maybe a MJK Alpha15/FF85K(new model) based one, then a Supravox 215RTF S Bicone/ better 15" like DeltaLite II 2515 ... ).
I need a very good system for very very few money, this is the way! As for OB you know
And as for listening to top gear in shops... prices make me sick!
Sorry for being out of topic, anyway wa less that rotary engines
As for amp I've never had great gear: a poor Arcam Alpha One I give a score (subjective to my xp) of 10/20, 11/20 when modded ( http://img145.imageshack.us/img145/3020/dscn1529ai0.jpg ), a chinese sweet rusty case, G&W 2006X something, 14/20 ( http://img178.imageshack.us/img178/852/tw20068lp0.jpg ), nice bass and overall sound, sold to live, then a given Aura VA100, 14/20 also ( http://img216.imageshack.us/img216/7581/aurava100evomod.jpg ) and then a (cheap and badly done) Williamson KT88, 9/20 then 11/20 when modded. Playing OB and vintage speakers I wanted a simple amp to "try", then a TA2024 wich, with my mods and not before, OsCon SP, PPS and such, was handling my DM4 better in bass region, wich means that they did bass for the first time! 14.5/20 on this one modded, but far more suitable with my DM4 for now.
I must admit that the flaw this ultra tiny Tripath amp has is a slight lack of matter in mids/high mids. Hope the TK2050 I have will do better, and I defo want to try, under better skies, the 41Hz Trupath. The Aura will be put on sale, as a Yamaha A500 amp wich can be sold 50€ when it scores 10/20 but being very boring sounding. It's very budget related and I want to put most of my futur € on the speakers, change the TK2050 for something else when/if my OB will be finished, or for a second OB project (maybe a MJK Alpha15/FF85K(new model) based one, then a Supravox 215RTF S Bicone/ better 15" like DeltaLite II 2515 ... ).
I need a very good system for very very few money, this is the way! As for OB you know
And as for listening to top gear in shops... prices make me sick!
Sorry for being out of topic, anyway wa less that rotary engines
M. This looks very interesting and not very expensive. I would like to know more about it as a potential backup amp.
[Review] Temple Audio Bantam Gold class-D amplifier listening test - [English]
[Review] Temple Audio Bantam Gold class-D amplifier listening test - [English]