I'm not pushing lead!I just happen to have some around. I too would love an all acrylic case. If nothing else, it would look great and you could see all the gubbins. In fact, the actually acrylic for a whole player would probably only come to about 60£ The problem is the cutting and fitting and figuring out how to get all the bits back in their right place...especially the drawer/laser mech. Sure would look a treat. There are people who specialize in making acrylic cases for art-work, pricey modelling and the like (not around here). What about that firm in UK that makes all acrylic amps? I forget their name. You don't hear anything about them anymore.
Hi guys,
I got an e-mail a while ago from someone who added a Complementary Feedback Pair (a what???) to the DOS. This is a very interesting upgrade for the DOS, but i've lost his e-mail address. I think it was a Steve, but i'm not sure. Could you contact me? I've done some simulations that i'd like to share.
BTW, I have new DOS and Flea boards in, for those who are interested. My website has (finally) moved to it's own domain, so please update your bookmarks.
Ray
I got an e-mail a while ago from someone who added a Complementary Feedback Pair (a what???) to the DOS. This is a very interesting upgrade for the DOS, but i've lost his e-mail address. I think it was a Steve, but i'm not sure. Could you contact me? I've done some simulations that i'd like to share.
BTW, I have new DOS and Flea boards in, for those who are interested. My website has (finally) moved to it's own domain, so please update your bookmarks.
Ray
Hi Ray! I did wonder the other day when some of the site content was down
You should also update your dontact details (homepage) on the forum too!
On a "DOS" note, do you think the stage would be suitable for I/V conversion from something like a TDA1541? Just a thought. I wondered if the non-inverting input could be put to GND to facilitate single ended input.
Appologies for the off topic!
Hi.
I have used lead sheet in cdplayer chassis, and for dumping mech.
you could glue it with Epossidic bicomponent glue.
The results is better than with other damping materials, as lead it is a little bit conductive too.
Lead is tossic, but does not stink.
Try it.
I Usually use 1,8 mm lead sheet, and it is heavy. 3 mm i think is to much.
As the glue, the problem is heat inside the machine; epossidic has a good feedback with heat and it is elastic and it is better to handle the player.
Others glue are not elastic, cristallize, and with time and temperature changes, come off. Imagine if sheet is up inside the cover...
Hi Ray! I did wonder the other day when some of the site content was down
You should also update your dontact details (homepage) on the forum too!
On a "DOS" note, do you think the stage would be suitable for I/V conversion from something like a TDA1541? Just a thought. I wondered if the non-inverting input could be put to GND to facilitate single ended input.
Appologies for the off topic!
It's fixed, thanks for pointing that out. So many links to update...
The 1541 needs more amplification, but in theory you could use the differential stage as a transimpedance circuit, same as an opamp, with the input acting as a virtual ground. All you need then is a series resistor to convert I to V...
Regards,
Ray
Thanks.
It is confusing as he!! with different reistors for different voltages and different parts for positive and negative. Considering how slow I solder, it should take a couple weeks to build these boards.
However, the payoff should be the mods shortcuts. Regulate rails, reclocking and adding the DOS should be painless
, really. And everything should fit in the case.
I'll post some pic's if it turn out well.
It is confusing as he!! with different reistors for different voltages and different parts for positive and negative. Considering how slow I solder, it should take a couple weeks to build these boards.
However, the payoff should be the mods shortcuts. Regulate rails, reclocking and adding the DOS should be painless
, really. And everything should fit in the case.I'll post some pic's if it turn out well.
Yeah, the TeddyReg "manual" needs a good read to get the point. After I figured out the right values, I did a DC simulation first, chicken I am . But everything worked out fine and I have four in my ezDAC now. I will describe in detail how I built the STR's (next new word after "DOS"...) for those who are interested, but i'm going to finish the DAC first and update the page later
Would be nice to see them perform in a player as well, please keep us updated
Ray
. But everything worked out fine and I have four in my ezDAC now. I will describe in detail how I built the STR's (next new word after "DOS"...) for those who are interested, but i'm going to finish the DAC first and update the page later Would be nice to see them perform in a player as well, please keep us updated
Ray
Hi boys,
what if a player shows "disc" but makes no noise at all (phone fixing ), not even focus, but drawer works fine:
the +/-10V is fine, can it be the HF coax gone loose? The unfamous mech ribbon?
Looking @ SM, if the servo clock is out of order?
I hate selling stuff :'(
Matthieu
what if a player shows "disc" but makes no noise at all (phone fixing
), not even focus, but drawer works fine:the +/-10V is fine, can it be the HF coax gone loose? The unfamous mech ribbon?
Looking @ SM, if the servo clock is out of order?
I hate selling stuff :'(
Matthieu
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Hi Matthieu,
Well, recently I had similar situation with Grundig CD23 (my new toy, equal to philips cd751 - hf,servo identical to marantz but the dac is tda1549), which I got broken for 5€. First, the pickup ribbon was torn, ok, I got a new vam1202, but still no focus movement. Next, I got a service manual of the philips CD750 and it's again equal cd751 but the dac is tda1545. There is a nice debugging procedure described. Please see if you have actuator signal going out of focus amp. In my case it was a cold solder joint at tda1301. Anyway, I have another problem but I assume it's a crappy vam1202 replacement - if hitting/touching on the enclosure, cd skips. Is this that sensible ??
Greetings and happy debugging,
Pawel
Well, recently I had similar situation with Grundig CD23 (my new toy, equal to philips cd751 - hf,servo identical to marantz but the dac is tda1549), which I got broken for 5€
. First, the pickup ribbon was torn, ok, I got a new vam1202, but still no focus movement. Next, I got a service manual of the philips CD750 and it's again equal cd751 but the dac is tda1545. There is a nice debugging procedure described. Please see if you have actuator signal going out of focus amp. In my case it was a cold solder joint at tda1301. Anyway, I have another problem but I assume it's a crappy vam1202 replacement - if hitting/touching on the enclosure, cd skips. Is this that sensible ?? Greetings and happy debugging,
Pawel
If the laser does not pump then the 'home' switch is probably not being activated. Measure between Orange and Black on the connector to see if it measures 0 ohms. If it is open circuit or high resistance this is your problem.
If it measures short check for dry joints under the connector or bad crimping on the wire
Brent
If it measures short check for dry joints under the connector or bad crimping on the wire
Brent
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