Bonjour à toute la communauté,
y a t il une personne qui pourrait m'aider à tweaker pas à pas et en douceur pour ne pas faire de conneries (en français car mon anglais est déplorable) un CD 53, je ne cherche pas un upgrade extrême mais plutôt à effectuer les modifications indispensables pour en faire un lecteur qui sonnerait bien avec mes JMR studio 4 et un ampli Quad 405.2.
Par avance , merci .
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tinitus
Hello to all the community,
is there someone who could help me step by step tweaker and gently so as not to make stupid (in French because my English is deplorable) CD 53, I do not want an upgrade but rather extreme to make the changes necessary into a drive that would sound good with my JMR Studio Quad 4 and a 405.2 amp.
In advance, thank you.
y a t il une personne qui pourrait m'aider à tweaker pas à pas et en douceur pour ne pas faire de conneries (en français car mon anglais est déplorable) un CD 53, je ne cherche pas un upgrade extrême mais plutôt à effectuer les modifications indispensables pour en faire un lecteur qui sonnerait bien avec mes JMR studio 4 et un ampli Quad 405.2.
Par avance , merci .
--------------------------------
translated by moderation
(translation software)
tinitus
Hello to all the community,
is there someone who could help me step by step tweaker and gently so as not to make stupid (in French because my English is deplorable) CD 53, I do not want an upgrade but rather extreme to make the changes necessary into a drive that would sound good with my JMR Studio Quad 4 and a 405.2 amp.
In advance, thank you.
Hi guys,
I've been running with red 100n WIMA film caps tagged across the bottom of the BG caps in my output stage for a few weeks, and X7R ceramics across the big Mundorfs in my PSU for months. I was initially pleased with the detail in the treble, but I eventually came to the conclusion that the sound was far too heavily biased towards the top end, with subdued bass and some faint, unnatural effect going on at vocal frequencies that sounded like distortion/phaser. I tried removing all the bypass caps early this week and I'm happy now that balance has been restored. The return of the low frequencies was immediately obvious, and the overall sound is smoother and more natural. I think this is probably the last in a series of failed experiments with bypass caps.
Hope you're all doing well,
Ben
I've been running with red 100n WIMA film caps tagged across the bottom of the BG caps in my output stage for a few weeks, and X7R ceramics across the big Mundorfs in my PSU for months. I was initially pleased with the detail in the treble, but I eventually came to the conclusion that the sound was far too heavily biased towards the top end, with subdued bass and some faint, unnatural effect going on at vocal frequencies that sounded like distortion/phaser. I tried removing all the bypass caps early this week and I'm happy now that balance has been restored. The return of the low frequencies was immediately obvious, and the overall sound is smoother and more natural. I think this is probably the last in a series of failed experiments with bypass caps.
Hope you're all doing well,
Ben
Hi Ben,
All is well here, thanks. Good to hear that you've got your sound sorted now! This also confirms that good caps don't need to be bypassed
. I've had similar experiences with some opamps; the emphasized mid and high sounds appealing at first, but after a longer period of time it leaded to listening fatigue and started to irritate me.
Regards,
Ray
All is well here, thanks. Good to hear that you've got your sound sorted now! This also confirms that good caps don't need to be bypassed
. I've had similar experiences with some opamps; the emphasized mid and high sounds appealing at first, but after a longer period of time it leaded to listening fatigue and started to irritate me.Regards,
Ray
Hi Ray, yes, that's my conclusion. I really wanted the bypasses to work, but they definitely degrade the sound over the good caps alone. I've observed that in my amp too.
I do have something else on this subject to share with the group, and it's a bit embarrassing. So, recently I told the group about my disappointment in comparing my BG+silver mica recapped '63 with a stock '67. I have to declare a couple of things that void those impressions somewhat, and I'd rather be straight about it than be misleading even if it makes me look like a plonker
Firstly, I now know for sure that the X7Rs tagged over my PSU caps were nerfing my bass quite badly, and that was one of the things that stood out in my comparison. Another thing was the naturalness of vocals, and - this is the most embarrassing part - I recently discovered that I have been using the wrong value silver micas in my output filter for more than a year! - I had 470pf where I should've used 1000pf. I've rectified that since, but I'm not about to undo my 5v supply mods in order to compare the two players again, and my '63 is miles better now. It doesn't mean I don't still think the 5v supply mods are probably the best bang for buck, but I can't say at this point how much of a difference the Black Gates made in isolation. I do know for a fact that they transformed my amp because I've done those mods twice now from scratch.
Happy hacking,
Ben
I do have something else on this subject to share with the group, and it's a bit embarrassing. So, recently I told the group about my disappointment in comparing my BG+silver mica recapped '63 with a stock '67. I have to declare a couple of things that void those impressions somewhat, and I'd rather be straight about it than be misleading even if it makes me look like a plonker
Firstly, I now know for sure that the X7Rs tagged over my PSU caps were nerfing my bass quite badly, and that was one of the things that stood out in my comparison. Another thing was the naturalness of vocals, and - this is the most embarrassing part - I recently discovered that I have been using the wrong value silver micas in my output filter for more than a year! - I had 470pf where I should've used 1000pf. I've rectified that since, but I'm not about to undo my 5v supply mods in order to compare the two players again, and my '63 is miles better now. It doesn't mean I don't still think the 5v supply mods are probably the best bang for buck, but I can't say at this point how much of a difference the Black Gates made in isolation. I do know for a fact that they transformed my amp because I've done those mods twice now from scratch.
Happy hacking,
Ben
Hi Ben,
All is well here, thanks. Good to hear that you've got your sound sorted now! This also confirms that good caps don't need to be bypassed
Regards,
Ray
Completely correct !
Ben, thanks for posting your findings. I recognize the same problem with the highs in my player, which is becoming a little unpleasant now. I'll try removing the X7R's in the analog PSU and first removing the filmcaps around the opamps in my player too. A already was thinking about replacing C605 and C606 in the output filter to get a Bessel characteristic, which possibly could restore balance, but I'll try this first. Thanks.
...even if it makes me look like a plonker
Ben
Lower values for C605/606 is a nice 'in between' mod. If the player is not fully tweaked and the highs and mids are not totally 'clean' yet, this mod masks the things that go wrong a bit. But in the end, I raised the value to 1nF again, because I missed a bit of energy in the high end. And then came the DOS...
Ray
Marantz CDP mods
HI Ray
This is my Modified CD6003.
https://picasaweb.google.com/111585...authkey=Gv1sRgCOXPlZLVg_TuiQE&feat=directlink
On pin 25 (qiescent voltage) is C75 3.3 μ. I have a BG 10μ n I want to use in this position. I can do? I must baypas with another Cap?
I have the service manual cd de 6004, can be used for your site?
Thanks for the 'want to help me. Congratulations for your work!
What?
HI Ray
This is my Modified CD6003.
https://picasaweb.google.com/111585...authkey=Gv1sRgCOXPlZLVg_TuiQE&feat=directlink
On pin 25 (qiescent voltage) is C75 3.3 μ. I have a BG 10μ n I want to use in this position. I can do? I must baypas with another Cap?
I have the service manual cd de 6004, can be used for your site?
Thanks for the 'want to help me. Congratulations for your work!
What?
You're right. I was also very vague in my post. My problem is this. On the CS4398 DAC for my Marantz CD6003 on pin 26 is the capacitor C756. The value is 3.3 50V. I could use a 50V with a value of 10? (BG n).
I wonder why I read the datasheet for the CS 4398 that the filter capacitor on pin 26 is very critical.
I also have another question for more experienced than me. For a dedicated power supply to the DAC CS4398 , 7VA are enough? I ask this because I want to use the 'clock PSU 9v 7VABy Fidelity Audio. Fidelity Audio : clock power supplies psu
thanks
I wonder why I read the datasheet for the CS 4398 that the filter capacitor on pin 26 is very critical.
I also have another question for more experienced than me. For a dedicated power supply to the DAC CS4398 , 7VA are enough? I ask this because I want to use the 'clock PSU 9v 7VABy Fidelity Audio. Fidelity Audio : clock power supplies psu
thanks
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Hi Gheorghes,
Nice work, you managed to squeeze quite some stuff in there!
C756 provides decoupling for internal circuitry, so by critical they mean you have to use a good cap, and the shortest possible connection so there's no additional noise introduced into this pin. Is it a standard electrolytic in there now?
3.3uF is the value that is sufficient for good operation of the DAC, but a larger cap means less ripple most of the times, so maybe a 10u BG with it's low impedance will improve things further. Just use your ears! Another good option is a 3.3uF film cap, like Wima MKS. They have even lower ESR and have very low leakage current, which seems an important factor at this particular pin.
So the verdict is: bypassing a good cap is a bad thing
Regards,
Ray
Nice work, you managed to squeeze quite some stuff in there!
C756 provides decoupling for internal circuitry, so by critical they mean you have to use a good cap, and the shortest possible connection so there's no additional noise introduced into this pin. Is it a standard electrolytic in there now?
3.3uF is the value that is sufficient for good operation of the DAC, but a larger cap means less ripple most of the times, so maybe a 10u BG with it's low impedance will improve things further. Just use your ears! Another good option is a 3.3uF film cap, like Wima MKS. They have even lower ESR and have very low leakage current, which seems an important factor at this particular pin.
So the verdict is: bypassing a good cap is a bad thing
Regards,
Ray
Hi Ray
Thanks for your advice. Yes C756 Is a standard electrolytic now.
You can help by answering my second question?
For a dedicated power supply to the DAC CS4398 of my Marantz CD6003 , 7VA are enough? I ask this because I want to use the 'clock PSU 9v 7VA By Fidelity Audio. Fidelity Audio : clock power supplies psu
Used as a pre-regulatet power. Now the DAC before the regulators has only 4 diodes and 1 capacitor fed from the main transformer
thanks
Thanks for your advice. Yes C756 Is a standard electrolytic now.
You can help by answering my second question?
For a dedicated power supply to the DAC CS4398 of my Marantz CD6003 , 7VA are enough? I ask this because I want to use the 'clock PSU 9v 7VA By Fidelity Audio. Fidelity Audio : clock power supplies psu
Used as a pre-regulatet power. Now the DAC before the regulators has only 4 diodes and 1 capacitor fed from the main transformer
thanks
Hey guys, I might have some time off on the horizon. Does anyone fancy putting these in priority order for me?
1. DAC clock
2. Servo clock
3. DOS
I have 1 flea and 1 DOS-cfp PCB ready to go, courtesy of Ray. I just need a clear focus and a definitive parts list.
Quick recap of my mods so far: CD63KI, full BG + silver mica recap, 3x Mundorf SI on PSU, Martin Clark LM317-based 5v on nearly all chip supplies, LM4562 op-amps + bypass, HDAM bypass.
P.S. Thanks to everyone who rallied to confirm what I've been hearing with bypass caps. There's a lot of conflicting opinion out there on the interwebs, but I trust my ears and you guys.
1. DAC clock
2. Servo clock
3. DOS
I have 1 flea and 1 DOS-cfp PCB ready to go, courtesy of Ray. I just need a clear focus and a definitive parts list.
Quick recap of my mods so far: CD63KI, full BG + silver mica recap, 3x Mundorf SI on PSU, Martin Clark LM317-based 5v on nearly all chip supplies, LM4562 op-amps + bypass, HDAM bypass.
P.S. Thanks to everyone who rallied to confirm what I've been hearing with bypass caps. There's a lot of conflicting opinion out there on the interwebs, but I trust my ears and you guys.
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Hi,
Yes, 7VA will be more than plenty to feed the DAC.
Hi Ben,
I think you have them in the right order, maybe 2 and 3 can be swapped. It all depends on the state of your analog output stage. But I'd say a DAC clock is most important.
Ray
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Defo the correct order.
Adding a big tx (~50va) to supply the driver ic's is also VERY important, more so than adding a DOS, imo.
Lee.
Hi Georghes,
I checked it, and I don't have the service manual for the 6003/6004 yet. So if you'd like to share it, that would be great! Just send me a PM.
Regards,
Ray