Marantz CD63 & CD67 mods list

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henryyyy

Member
Joined 2013
6h5c said:
Hi Henry,

The power of the tranny is enough, but you don't need a symmetrical supply like the +/-9V of your schematic. Just connect the two 9V windings in series to make 18V, like you have now, and use one bridge rectifier and one capacitor. Forget the center tap to ground. Then use a 7818 to get a nicely regulated voltage for The Flea.

See here.
Click to expand...

Thanks! - I just emailed the order request.
 
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lymmlad

Member
Joined 2011
6h5c said:
I don't have any experience with this, so I can't tell you if it will make a big difference. I know that adding two regulators to feed the drivers will help, but i'm not sure if there will be a further improvement if you feed each of the driver-IC's separately. You could start by adding an extra supply for the driver of the disc motor (QM01), or the one that drives the focus and radial coils (Q106) and see what happens.
Click to expand...

Ray, Many thanks for this. I will discuss it with my electronics guru who is guiding me through this project, and let you know. :happy1:
 
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higlander

Member
Joined 2012
pjoliver182 said:
Still no further forward..

Whilst poking around with my multimeter I managed to set off the radial motor a few times; is this normal or perhaps a clue as to what is wrong?
Click to expand...

May be there is something wrong with your Q106. Have you consider changing it ? I recalled that in one of my modded CD63s I got focus and radial errors despite I changed two new lasers. Eventually I changed Q106 and all errors were gone.
 
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higlander

Member
Joined 2012
pjoliver182 said:
It just seems a bit of a coincidence...the player worked perfectly before I started swapping components out. Perhaps I should have done the mods a section at a time...ah the benefit of hindsight...:(
Click to expand...

I have modded about 10 CD63s for my friend and everyone I got it right without major problems. The trick is to carry out mods little by little and then test it and ensure it is working alright before going to the next mod. It is advised to ensure all the wiring are put orderly and tidy up so that they can be traced easily. I have uploaded a number of photos and you can see what I had done.

As to the buttons if you found them sluggish you can swap them with the micro switches with seldom used ones, like program or edit buttons.
 
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patricma1

Member
Joined 2009
Good Evening Guys, I have started modding my 63KI, so far i have changed:
Power supply
C803/804 3300u/25V + 1u MKT
C805/806 1000u/+ 100n PPS 1913
C811/812. 47n MKS Wima
C813 4700u/16V + 1u MKT
C814 3300u/16V + 1u MKT
C815 4700u/10V + 100n PPS 1913
D801...804 MBR1100 IR
D811...814 MBR1100 IR
D851/854 MBR1100 IR
DN01/02 MBR1100 IR
Q801 TekDevice TI TPS7A4700 12V 1A 4.17uVrms Ultra Low Noise LDO Voltage Regulator
Q802 TekDevice TPS7A3301 -12V 1A 16uVrms Ultra Low Noise Negative LDO Regulator
Q811 TekDevice TI TPS7A4700 5V 1A 4.17uVrms Ultra Low Noise LDO Voltage Regulator

HDAM & OPAMPS (Q605/606)
C611...614 100u/25V cf. 220u/16V Black Gate Std.
C655...658 220u/16V sm. removed
C659/660 100p removed
R613...616 470uH/7R9 + ferrite
R651...654 27R removed
R655/656 10k removed
R657/658 100R removed
R659/660 40R2/1% PRP
U210/214 jumper removed
QN05...08 2SC2878 removed
Disabled headphone circuit:
Disable muting circuit:
I have just tried the player and I can hear a great improvement,:)
I still have the 50VA 2X12V toroidal TX to supply the servo, and the LME49720HA opamps to fit next, I am also awaiting a low jitter clock arriving. What do you recommend I should get done next off Rays list.
 
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lymmlad

Member
Joined 2011
patricma1 said:
just fitted the 50VA 2X12V toroidal TX to supply the servo, and the LME49720HA opamps and lined the case with bitumen pads, wow!!!!! the sound is fantastic, a totally different player.
Still waiting for the clock to arrive.
Surely the other mods on Rays list cant make a huge change to the sound?
Click to expand...

In my experience, what you have just done in powering the servo, had the biggest positive impact on sound quality. New clocks powered separately, in my experience, didn't make as big a difference.

When I powered the DAC and decoder separately (especially the decoder) I then experienced another major improvement. Good luck!
 
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pjoliver182

Member
Joined 2013
Hi folks

I have good news - I solved my error 12 problem! I found some some odd voltage values coming from Q106. Pins 13 & 16 were reading 0.7V instead of 2.4/5V. The input voltages to that half of the chip were also low; pins 1 & 2 were only 1.6V instead of 2.5V. These inputs are MOTO1 & 2 from the decoder (pins 33 & 34). I wasn't sure which pins on the decoder were associated with supplying the input signals to produce these MOTO outputs so I checked the voltages of every pin on the decoder (as best I could, by using the nearest passive component on the top of the PCB).

I found that pins 14 & 15 were reading 0V when they should be 2.5V - hmm?! These are ISLICE and HFIN...

HFIN comes from the servo PCB as a 0.4V signal...then travels through a few caps (that I had changed) before getting to the decoder. I changed C125, C108, C109, C110 again and checked for cracked traces and shorts to ground....and found nothing...at all....

I then swapped the servo pcb on to my CD63 transport and tried that....still no difference...

I went back to Google...and found a thread from about 12 years ago with a guy having similar issues. The thread just ended without a solution and the guy just bought another player instead...

...but...someone suggested he look around the DAC because there is an interaction between the DAC and decoder that most people would not consider could affect the servos etc...which got me thinking about those tiny SMD caps I'd soldered to the DAC pins...

I removed them all...and hey presto...perfectly working player! Turns out I'd misread the schematic and soldered the SMD caps to the wrong pins lol.

Just goes to show how the unsuspecting DAC can be the source of symptoms found in completely different parts of the player!
 
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pjoliver182

Member
Joined 2013
lymmlad said:
In my experience, what you have just done in powering the servo, had the biggest positive impact on sound quality. New clocks powered separately, in my experience, didn't make as big a difference.

When I powered the DAC and decoder separately (especially the decoder) I then experienced another major improvement. Good luck!
Click to expand...

Are you using multiple seperate transformers for this? I'm using audiocom super regulators...could I expect significant benefits from multiple PSUs too?

The biggest improvement I have heard was replacing the whole analogue section with a pair of audio transformers.
 
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lymmlad

Member
Joined 2011
pjoliver182 said:
Are you using multiple seperate transformers for this? I'm using audiocom super regulators...could I expect significant benefits from multiple PSUs too?

The biggest improvement I have heard was replacing the whole analogue section with a pair of audio transformers.
Click to expand...

This is what I have done regarding separate transformers:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/digital-source/54009-marantz-cd63-cd67-mods-list-1997.html

Since I posted these pics, I have added another separate tx for the decoder which made a big difference. I had already done the DAC, so maybe it was the DAC and decoder acting together that made the difference.

I set up better quality regulators at the same time as the transformers, so I cannot comment on whether just doing the regs would produce an inferior sound quality. I suspect that a clean power supply + good quality regs will make a big difference. (I hope so with the money I've spent!):D
 
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lymmlad

Member
Joined 2011
lymmlad said:
This is what I have done regarding separate transformers:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/digital-source/54009-marantz-cd63-cd67-mods-list-1997.html

Since I posted these pics, I have added another separate tx for the decoder which made a big difference. I had already done the DAC, so maybe it was the DAC and decoder acting together that made the difference.

I set up better quality regulators at the same time as the transformers, so I cannot comment on whether just doing the regs would produce an inferior sound quality. I suspect that a clean power supply + good quality regs will make a big difference. (I hope so with the money I've spent!):D
Click to expand...

Correction – in my post above I mistakenly linked to RCruz's copy of my original post. The correct link is:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/digital-source/54009-marantz-cd63-cd67-mods-list-1996.html
 
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pjoliver182

Member
Joined 2013
I have a toroidal TX that I've just removed from my old CD63KI. I was going to swap it in to my now modded CD67OSE but now I'm thinking of using it to power the servo drivers exclusively and allowing the stock TX to power the display, DAC, micro-processor and decoder (I'll be disconnecting the analogue 12V supplies when I install my output transformers).

Do you guys think this is a better option rather than replacing my 67's TX with the 63KI?
 
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pjoliver182

Member
Joined 2013
Ben Hanke said:
I don't think that would offer much benefit, and wouldn't be a very good use of space. If you want to beef up your servo supply then you're better off getting a dedicated 50VA toroid for it, which would offer big gains and take up a similar footprint to the KI toroid.
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Is the KI toroid inferior to a 50VA then?

So insert the KI toroid in to the CD67 in place of its stock tranny and then purchase a second toroid rated at 50VA for the servo drivers?

How about this one?

2x12V 2.08A Toroidal Transformer | Maplin
 
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higlander

Member
Joined 2012
pjoliver182 said:
Is the KI toroid inferior to a 50VA then?

So insert the KI toroid in to the CD67 in place of its stock tranny and then purchase a second toroid rated at 50VA for the servo drivers?

How about this one?

2x12V 2.08A Toroidal Transformer | Maplin
Click to expand...

Yes, use the stock KI TX to supply the analogue rail and the display. Buy a 50VA 12Vx2 to drive the servo. I have done that in two of my mods for my friends. Not far off from using a 30VA TX for the analogue rail.
 
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