Don't use the analog outputs just spidif, using the HDMI input there no problems with passing digital through
just using from the drive.
just using from the drive.
A couple of days ago I was talking to the head of DEQX, Kim Ryrie. It was about the fact that right now there are basically a choice between ESS "Sabre" or AKM "Velvet" chipsets, that is both ADC DAC chips. I heard the latest not yet released DEQX setup and it was entirely ESS based. We also talked about how important implementations are and that they used the ESS Sabre DAC's volume control and what a great achievement that it is, and that it was not accidental when they designed it. Hence ESS made it so much easier since they did not have to design a volume control. But we Oppo upgraders and users already know this. The basic ESS Sabre implementation by Oppo has been done very well for the most part. Add a few changes/things and it is almost like the beast within.
For some years I have been doing things to these Oppo players that nobody has done and it has never been done before. What is it about? To big a topic here, but basically there is a secondary form of jitter that is not suppressed and I have two VLSI engineers who have confirmed that it is real. One of them is a top chip and software designer for Intel and the other worked with Philips and designing their chips. It suppresses a glitch that occurs when the oscillator is connected to the DAC's clock input pin and the glitch occurs on every cycle and yes, removing it is the only time you hear, because you are not hearing it. You can hear it in the space of the recording, you can hear it when a piano note with sustain is struck and that you can hear it decay into nothing and that the tone changes during that decay (there is always a top quality piano in our home, so I know what a piano should sound like and how it behaves pitch wise). You can hear it on vocals and how words are formed in the mouth, and of course, on the bass. The clock signal coming out of the oscillator must not be connected directly to the clock input, it needs to be conditioned before it is connected. I am hoping that you guys will remember this because it is yet to come out you will. An engineer suggested last night that we need to do a white paper first and distribute that with a date on it. Then the question of intellectual property rights will be established. To Coris, yes perhaps you will be doing something yourself and perhaps with my collaboration.
For some years I have been doing things to these Oppo players that nobody has done and it has never been done before. What is it about? To big a topic here, but basically there is a secondary form of jitter that is not suppressed and I have two VLSI engineers who have confirmed that it is real. One of them is a top chip and software designer for Intel and the other worked with Philips and designing their chips. It suppresses a glitch that occurs when the oscillator is connected to the DAC's clock input pin and the glitch occurs on every cycle and yes, removing it is the only time you hear, because you are not hearing it. You can hear it in the space of the recording, you can hear it when a piano note with sustain is struck and that you can hear it decay into nothing and that the tone changes during that decay (there is always a top quality piano in our home, so I know what a piano should sound like and how it behaves pitch wise). You can hear it on vocals and how words are formed in the mouth, and of course, on the bass. The clock signal coming out of the oscillator must not be connected directly to the clock input, it needs to be conditioned before it is connected. I am hoping that you guys will remember this because it is yet to come out you will. An engineer suggested last night that we need to do a white paper first and distribute that with a date on it. Then the question of intellectual property rights will be established. To Coris, yes perhaps you will be doing something yourself and perhaps with my collaboration.
Don't use the analog outputs just spidif, using the HDMI input there no problems with passing digital through
just using from the drive.
I connect a 4K latest generation Chromecast to the HDMI input and connect it to my WiFi. I then use Mconnect app on a phone or tablet (android) and able to cast to the Chromecast with a resolution up to 24/96. Mconnect works with both Tidal and Qobuz. Tidal's own app will only cast to Chromecast 16/44.1, that is why I use Mconnect app.
No thanks for the reply but I am just trying to identify whether the drive is faulty, as I get a picture but just a buzzing
sound on audio.
sound on audio.
I'm new to the forum, but one of the things I hope to learn here is whether or not there are still upgrades/mods available for either the Oppo 105D and/or the Oppo 203 models? In fact, I'm interested in anything related to upgrades to any of the Oppo player models.
I have upgraded power supply that came from a Japanese engineer.Never use it just pug in replacement for the Oppo 105D . I sold the 105 and have never used it.
the 0ppo 205 used a different and that what i using now. There might Oppo stuff on eBa.
the 0ppo 205 used a different and that what i using now. There might Oppo stuff on eBa.
A couple of days ago I was talking to the head of DEQX, Kim Ryrie. It was about the fact that right now there are basically a choice between ESS "Sabre" or AKM "Velvet" chipsets, that is both ADC DAC chips. I heard the latest not yet released DEQX setup and it was entirely ESS based. We also talked about how important implementations are and that they used the ESS Sabre DAC's volume control and what a great achievement that it is, and that it was not accidental when they designed it. Hence ESS made it so much easier since they did not have to design a volume control. But we Oppo upgraders and users already know this. The basic ESS Sabre implementation by Oppo has been done very well for the most part. Add a few changes/things and it is almost like the beast within.
For some years I have been doing things to these Oppo players that nobody has done and it has never been done before. What is it about? To big a topic here, but basically there is a secondary form of jitter that is not suppressed and I have two VLSI engineers who have confirmed that it is real. One of them is a top chip and software designer for Intel and the other worked with Philips and designing their chips. It suppresses a glitch that occurs when the oscillator is connected to the DAC's clock input pin and the glitch occurs on every cycle and yes, removing it is the only time you hear, because you are not hearing it. You can hear it in the space of the recording, you can hear it when a piano note with sustain is struck and that you can hear it decay into nothing and that the tone changes during that decay (there is always a top quality piano in our home, so I know what a piano should sound like and how it behaves pitch wise). You can hear it on vocals and how words are formed in the mouth, and of course, on the bass. The clock signal coming out of the oscillator must not be connected directly to the clock input, it needs to be conditioned before it is connected. I am hoping that you guys will remember this because it is yet to come out you will. An engineer suggested last night that we need to do a white paper first and distribute that with a date on it. Then the question of intellectual property rights will be established. To Coris, yes perhaps you will be doing something yourself and perhaps with my collaboration.
Joe, many voltage references and clocks have an impedance mismatch. We found this out back in the 80s designing Seismic instruments for oil exploration. That why just stick a clock to high or unknown impedance input does work great. Seems you Have that out.
Cheers
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...des-modifications.300692/page-39#post-7015938I'm new to the forum, but one of the things I hope to learn here is whether or not there are still upgrades/mods available for either the Oppo 105D and/or the Oppo 203 models? In fact, I'm interested in anything related to upgrades to any of the Oppo player models.
This is perhaps an odd one, but does anyone have a lid for a BDP-105 available? Perhaps from a dead unit?
I don't want to explain, as the reason I need it is annoying.
I don't want to explain, as the reason I need it is annoying.
Hi All,
I apologize for my poor English. I need your help to repair OPPO BDP-105D:
Malfunction symptoms:
The player goes into defence when switched on. If you disconnect the cable connecting the motherboard to the stereo DAC board (I removed the multichannel DAC board beforehand), the player switches on and the motherboard works normally. Power to the DAC is supplied from the toroidal transformer, it seems to be normal.
Voltage stabilisers on the DAC board after some time - especially one of them (the largest rear one, which is closer to the chassis of the case), become warm (40-45 degrees).
Supply voltages seem to be all there.
I made measurements, on pin 22 of the I2S loop there is always voltage (3.3 V), on pin 1, if the DAC is not connected, then after switching on the player appears 3.3 V, and the player motherboard works normally.
If the loop is connected to the DAC, then when switching on, 3.3 V appears on pin 1 for a moment, after which it disappears and the player (motherboard) hangs up intentionally (until it is completely de-energised).
Presumably, the protection is triggered to check the correctness of the DAC board power supply?
Question: where and what voltage values should be on the DAC board? What should be checked? Is it possible to disable this protection for checking the correctness of power supply voltage on the DAC board?
Thanks in advance!
I apologize for my poor English. I need your help to repair OPPO BDP-105D:
Malfunction symptoms:
The player goes into defence when switched on. If you disconnect the cable connecting the motherboard to the stereo DAC board (I removed the multichannel DAC board beforehand), the player switches on and the motherboard works normally. Power to the DAC is supplied from the toroidal transformer, it seems to be normal.
Voltage stabilisers on the DAC board after some time - especially one of them (the largest rear one, which is closer to the chassis of the case), become warm (40-45 degrees).
Supply voltages seem to be all there.
I made measurements, on pin 22 of the I2S loop there is always voltage (3.3 V), on pin 1, if the DAC is not connected, then after switching on the player appears 3.3 V, and the player motherboard works normally.
If the loop is connected to the DAC, then when switching on, 3.3 V appears on pin 1 for a moment, after which it disappears and the player (motherboard) hangs up intentionally (until it is completely de-energised).
Presumably, the protection is triggered to check the correctness of the DAC board power supply?
Question: where and what voltage values should be on the DAC board? What should be checked? Is it possible to disable this protection for checking the correctness of power supply voltage on the DAC board?
Thanks in advance!
Well, I was not in here for a long time... Much amount of work. Magnetar, Panasonic, Pioneer, Zidoo, Parasound...I'm new to the forum, but one of the things I hope to learn here is whether or not there are still upgrades/mods available for either the Oppo 105D and/or the Oppo 203 models? In fact, I'm interested in anything related to upgrades to any of the Oppo player models.
Yes, upgrades for Oppo models (as another ones as well), still always available. Linear power supply, clocking system, audio section, etc. Please PM me for more details.
Answering to krob11, about malfunction of his device. Well, not easy to understand from the quite poor translation of the issue description. It seems to me that the an issue on one of the voltages on analogue section/board of the player (+/- 15v and 7v for DAC power system), it trygger the protection circuit, which it monitor the status of the analogue voltages . One of these voltages are not right after power on, and the protection circuit it send the message to the main processor. And then the device it is powered off. As this player model is quite old, most likely one of the filtering caps involved on the stereo board power rails is defective, or it bring down one of the voltages there. You can disconnect the flat cable between the main board and stereo board, keeping connected the toroid to the stereo board. Then you may be able to measure the voltages before and after the filtering caps on stereo board.
Another issue which I found out about Oppo players (not on all devices, but some of it), is the poor soldering quality of the rectifier bridges on stereo board. These components it seems it stay soldered on the board, but for some reasons the legs of the rectifier bridges get a bad contact with the printed circuits pads on board (poor quality of the soldering process or bad quality solder used on fabrication process). A re-soldering of all the rectifier bridges legs on stereo board is recommended.
Well, the above analyse/advice it may be superflue today, as the report of the issue is quite old, and maybe an solution it was found until then. Anyway...
Another issue which I found out about Oppo players (not on all devices, but some of it), is the poor soldering quality of the rectifier bridges on stereo board. These components it seems it stay soldered on the board, but for some reasons the legs of the rectifier bridges get a bad contact with the printed circuits pads on board (poor quality of the soldering process or bad quality solder used on fabrication process). A re-soldering of all the rectifier bridges legs on stereo board is recommended.
Well, the above analyse/advice it may be superflue today, as the report of the issue is quite old, and maybe an solution it was found until then. Anyway...
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