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Old 6th February 2013, 01:46 AM   #61
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Peter Daniel View Post
Here's the PS schematic. I tried some popular regulators (LM317, LM2937, LT1086, LT1129) as well dual regulation and separate regulation for 5V. Nothing worked better for me than a single LM7808 from National.

I also tried few diode types, including 31DQ09 Schottkies that are supposedly used in Zanden, but again, MSR860 worked best.

Using BG STD 1000/25 after regulator is quite critical, before regulator you see BG FK 2200/35. I later switched to not available any longer BG F 1000/35 which provided more high frequency extention. You could use BG STD 1000/25 with BG N 4.7/50 bypass to compensate slight brightness but you may loose some liquidity and naturalness.

Other caps are also OK, feel free to experiment. What I present here is exactly what worked in my system (for me).
I lifted this post from the original Shiga thread to start my discussion about the power supply PCB. I'm attaching Peter's original pic that goes with his post, and one representing the collected work of the team and finalized by Tibi with matching PCB. I have the PCB in hand and a collection of parts. The idea here is to examine which ones will stay and which will be replaced.

Now, according to Peter's thread and other postings, for this supply it seems the MSR860 diodes are the preferred choice (thanks Tibi!), although there has been some talk of the CSD-01060A (which I'm not sure anyone has compared to the MSR). I happen to have some Fairchild Stealth Soft Recovery diodes which I've been thinking about trying. Peter tried Shottkys and did not think they were better than the MSR860, but I'm not sure that he tried the Stealths. I have one PCB already built up with Tibi's supplied components so I'm tempted to try these others on this second board. But if anyone has recommendations for or against I'd like to hear them.

The next is the transformer. Again supplied with the kit is a very nice custom center tapped job. I have a custom R-core that I had made for me a few years ago for another project (never started). So I have this beautiful R-core with a 10VAC, 4A secondary. Really want to use this tranny but it is not center tapped, so I'll have to modify the rectifier section to accomodate a 4 diode full wave bridge. I guess the motivation for this (apart from the desire to use the R-core) is the possible downside of slightly greater ripple with a center tapped solution, and possibility of core saturation. I suspect Tibi's tranny is well designed in this regard, but apart from adding two extra diodes I don't see a downside to using my R-core.

I'm going to stick with the LM7808 because Peter tried my alternative (LM1086) and didn't care for it.

I have BG FK for before the 7808, and my last BG F for after it, so needless to say that's what I'm going to use there. The question is whether there are alternatives to C62, C65, and C66. I've read all of uncle_leon's recommendations and most (if not all) of the Shiga thread over the years, but not sure if anyone has any thoughts specific to this new design. uncle_leon (and anyone else!) - I'd love to get your input on this!
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Old 6th February 2013, 07:12 AM   #62
tvicol is offline tvicol  Romania
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Tony,

This is how the things work.
After D1 and D2 rectification you have C62-100nF polypropylene, this will reduce low frequency noise coming from power line. C63-2200uF provide main filtering after rectification. C64-1000uF is big enough to ensure stability in operation for regulator and further filtering. C65-C66 are killing high frequency noise. C66-1nF Silver mica is preferable here.
Of course the quality of C63 and C64 is important and is up to you which caps you prefer, but keep in mind that, for best results, C63 must be a high ripple capacitor while C64 must be a low ESR/ESL one.

Regards,
Tibi
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Last edited by tvicol; 6th February 2013 at 07:16 AM.
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Old 6th February 2013, 09:15 AM   #63
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I have the tvicol full kit which is great. but saw this "bobken" regulator in earlier posts. How does this fit into the picture, is it only for the original shiga or can it be used on the new.
Found the summery on uncle_leon website
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Old 6th February 2013, 09:33 AM   #64
tvicol is offline tvicol  Romania
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skippyboy View Post
I have the tvicol full kit which is great. but saw this "bobken" regulator in earlier posts. How does this fit into the picture, is it only for the original shiga or can it be used on the new.
Found the summery on uncle_leon website
Studio Zy

Also found this on you pay.
eBay Australia: Buy new & used fashion, electronics & home d?r
As far I see Bobken regulator use a depletion mosfet BSP129 as series current limiter. This have a Vgs threshold of around 1.4V limiting current to ~500mA. This should be enough for old and new SHIGA as long you use him to power separate sections.
Regards,
Tibi
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Last edited by tvicol; 6th February 2013 at 09:40 AM.
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Old 6th February 2013, 11:58 AM   #65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tvicol View Post
Tony,

This is how the things work.
After D1 and D2 rectification you have C62-100nF polypropylene, this will reduce low frequency noise coming from power line. C63-2200uF provide main filtering after rectification. C64-1000uF is big enough to ensure stability in operation for regulator and further filtering. C65-C66 are killing high frequency noise. C66-1nF Silver mica is preferable here.
Of course the quality of C63 and C64 is important and is up to you which caps you prefer, but keep in mind that, for best results, C63 must be a high ripple capacitor while C64 must be a low ESR/ESL one.

Regards,
Tibi
Okay Tibi. I'll have to review the ripple and ESR characteristics of the BGs, but since Peter and others tried so many in the course of playing with those two I'll probably use them even if they are not (electrically) ideal.

As for C62, the metallized polyprop certainly opens up the range of possibilities. There are plenty of audiophile caps to choose from. I'll have to do another scrub through the Shiga thread to see what may have been tried.

What types did you try for C66? Here in the U.S. CORNELL DUBILIER seems to be the big supplier of silver micas in that size. Wasn't sure of the alternatives.
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Old 6th February 2013, 12:14 PM   #66
tvicol is offline tvicol  Romania
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Tony,

I didnt say that BG are not good in this regard. I just only wanted to highlight what specs are relevant and you should look for in case of upgrade.

C62 dont need to be so fancy. MKP was a handy and pricewise solution. A better cap in that position may by a PIO, same value, but substantially bigger in size.
Also a 100nF/400V PIO in primary side of the trafo can have a great effect. Just try and youll be surprised.

C66 can be any value between 1nF - 22nF and I know only few manufacturers - one is Cornell Dubilier.

Regards,
Tibi
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Last edited by tvicol; 6th February 2013 at 12:37 PM.
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Old 6th February 2013, 04:49 PM   #67
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tvicol View Post
C66 can be any value between 1nF - 22nF and I know only few manufacturers - one is Cornell Dubilier.
Tibi, I don't have the parts or BOM at hand right now - is the one provided in the kit a Cornell?
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Old 7th February 2013, 05:31 AM   #68
tvicol is offline tvicol  Romania
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It is a Miconics from Partsconnexion.

Regards,
Tibi
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Old 7th February 2013, 06:53 AM   #69
syklab is offline syklab  Hong Kong
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Hi Tibi,
Have you try using a High quality oscillator for the Shigaclone? Will there be any significant benefit ? I am planing to use one of this to replace the existing oscillator.

Discrete Low Jitter Clock GB
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Old 7th February 2013, 07:15 AM   #70
tvicol is offline tvicol  Romania
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Quote:
Originally Posted by syklab View Post
Hi Tibi,
Have you try using a High quality oscillator for the Shigaclone? Will there be any significant benefit ? I am planing to use one of this to replace the existing oscillator.

Discrete Low Jitter Clock GB
Yes, I have tested with Tentlabs can.
The sound become very detailed and lot of harmonics are better defined. On a lower resolution system this in traslated in a hiss treble or a sandy sound. On a high resolution system all these harmonics are translated in better decay, body and musicality.
So, depending on your audio system you may like it or not.

The board allow you to use a Tentlabs can oscillator.
You may use a separate power supply as well see https://docs.google.com/document/d/1...-j9X4b7Q0/edit

Regards,
Tibi
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