Hi guys,
I am writing this in response to a request from the 963 mod thread. I decided to start a new thread, since it is about a different player. Meant to do this a while ago, sorry it took so long.
First piece of advice is to read this page,
http://www.aplhifi.com/SACD1000fix.html
The guy who wrote it is modding 1000’s, and because of all the problems with 1000’s at audioasylum, he has looked into why so many 1000’s are breaking, and this page is the result of his work. I hope he is right, and I can fix my 1000 again. He worked with Philips repair in Tampa on this, and if you have a broken 1000, Tampa seems like the place to get it fixed.
Brings me to 2nd point, my 1000 is currently not working very well. It does not read SACD’s at all, and lately has had issues with CD’s. I am not using it right now, am using a modded SA-14 instead. The modded SA14 has better resolution and details, but the 1000 had a better soundstage.
For the setup, I have my 1000 on Aurio 1.1’s, with about 5 lbs of lead weight on top. I removed the feet and bottom plate. I think removing the bottom plate made the Aurio’s more effective, so they could couple directly to the chassis. Using a diy PC of Stan Warren design.
I never heard a stock 1000, I had a new unit sent to Stan Warren for mods. Stan’s mod redesigned the discrete output stage of the 1000. He also changed the bride and added a few blackgates to the +/- 12 VDC supply. He added some more blackgates around the output stage, and for the output coupling caps.
Over time, I made additional mods to the 1000, listed below. Wanted to see how good I could make it. I did not keep notes as I made the mods, so I don’t remember specifics of what every mod did. I also made changes in bunches, I did not take the time to make changes one at a time, and see what every change did. I know my mods made the 1000 better, but cannot always say what mod had what effect.
Now for words of warning. The last mod I made before my 1000 started acting up was to modify the switching PS. However, the problems with my 1000 started occurring right after I accidentally bumped it while it was playing, so I have always thought it was that. But, I am going to install a stock switcher in it pretty soon, and see what difference it makes.
One other thing to note is there are lots of places to pick up ground on the top of the DAC/output card. You just have to scrap through the solder mask, and most of the large copper areas are ground. Just use a meter to make sure. Makes it really easy to add a cap somewhere, and to keep the cap’s ground lead short.
One more other thing. I am not necessarily recommending all the changes I made, although I think most of them would help. I am presenting this as a list of options, give you something to think about.
Really last thing. In the end, I hooked up the DAC to an audio consulting transformer, bypassing the output stage. I thought it sounded better than with the modified output stage. If you do something like this, you can ignore any changes to +/-12VDC, it is no longer used, and don’t need to worry about changes on the output stage.
In the output stage of the DAC card, you can do the following:
C321, C322, C371 and C372 were 220/16V Elna’s, changed to 470/16V Blackgates. I added .022 polystyrene bypass caps, but not really sure if the bypass caps did anything or not. I was in a styrene bypass kind of mode at this time, and I was bypassing everything with the NOS styrenes I got surplus.
These caps filter +/- 12VDC for the first output stage (the 50KHZ one) for the front two channels.
If you listen with the 50KHZ filter setting:
Remove relay L602. Jumper from pins 4 to 5, and from 8 to 9 (two end pins) after removing. This takes a relay out of the signal path, and permanently connects the 50KHZ signal to the output.
NOTE: You really should use the 50KHZ setting if you can, if you use the 40KHZ setting, the signal goes through two output stages, where it only goes through one if you use the 50KHZ.
On the DAC cards, around the DACs:
Changed CD43 and CD41, they are 100/10 elna’s. I installed 270uf/16 OSCON’s, pn 16SP270. I added another 270/16 oscon across pins 7/8 and ground, which puts it in parallel with CD41. I also added another oscon under CD43, on the bottom side of the board. Also put in a .022 polystyrene bypass on CD43 and CD41.
I also lifted pins 12 and 13 on QD51 (middle DAC for L/R side channels), and jumpered to pins 12 and 13 on QD41. This makes QD51(middle 4397) output the main L/R channels also, instead of the side channels. I was going to play with parallel DACs someday. I jumpered the pins with twisted pair wires, and grounded one wire, using the other wire for signal.
On the DAC card, around the clock:
CD23 was 220/16 elna, changed to a 1000/16 blackgate
CD24 was a 47/16 elna, changed to a 270/16 oscon
CD01 was a 47/17 elna, changed to a 220/16 elna silmic
I also installed a G&D Transforms clock, which is supposed to have less then 5psec of jitter.
I think switching the clock, and changing the caps in the clock circuit had a very positive effect on the 1000. Even if you use the stock clock, changing the caps will improve the soundstage.
On the switching power supply
Changed C105 from 150/400V to 150/350V Blackgate VK
Changed C203, C206, were changed to blackgates.
C217, C215, C205 and C208 were changed to Oscons. If I had to do again, I would only use Oscons for digital stuff, as this is supposed to be their strength.
On the linear power supply,
I put in Jensen 4 pole, 10,000 uf caps on the +/-12VDC after the rectifier and before the regulator. I also put in freds for all diodes. Was thinking about other changes here, like cap upgrades and regulator upgrades, but never got to it.
That’s what I remember.
Hope this helps someone out there.
Randy
I am writing this in response to a request from the 963 mod thread. I decided to start a new thread, since it is about a different player. Meant to do this a while ago, sorry it took so long.
First piece of advice is to read this page,
http://www.aplhifi.com/SACD1000fix.html
The guy who wrote it is modding 1000’s, and because of all the problems with 1000’s at audioasylum, he has looked into why so many 1000’s are breaking, and this page is the result of his work. I hope he is right, and I can fix my 1000 again. He worked with Philips repair in Tampa on this, and if you have a broken 1000, Tampa seems like the place to get it fixed.
Brings me to 2nd point, my 1000 is currently not working very well. It does not read SACD’s at all, and lately has had issues with CD’s. I am not using it right now, am using a modded SA-14 instead. The modded SA14 has better resolution and details, but the 1000 had a better soundstage.
For the setup, I have my 1000 on Aurio 1.1’s, with about 5 lbs of lead weight on top. I removed the feet and bottom plate. I think removing the bottom plate made the Aurio’s more effective, so they could couple directly to the chassis. Using a diy PC of Stan Warren design.
I never heard a stock 1000, I had a new unit sent to Stan Warren for mods. Stan’s mod redesigned the discrete output stage of the 1000. He also changed the bride and added a few blackgates to the +/- 12 VDC supply. He added some more blackgates around the output stage, and for the output coupling caps.
Over time, I made additional mods to the 1000, listed below. Wanted to see how good I could make it. I did not keep notes as I made the mods, so I don’t remember specifics of what every mod did. I also made changes in bunches, I did not take the time to make changes one at a time, and see what every change did. I know my mods made the 1000 better, but cannot always say what mod had what effect.
Now for words of warning. The last mod I made before my 1000 started acting up was to modify the switching PS. However, the problems with my 1000 started occurring right after I accidentally bumped it while it was playing, so I have always thought it was that. But, I am going to install a stock switcher in it pretty soon, and see what difference it makes.
One other thing to note is there are lots of places to pick up ground on the top of the DAC/output card. You just have to scrap through the solder mask, and most of the large copper areas are ground. Just use a meter to make sure. Makes it really easy to add a cap somewhere, and to keep the cap’s ground lead short.
One more other thing. I am not necessarily recommending all the changes I made, although I think most of them would help. I am presenting this as a list of options, give you something to think about.
Really last thing. In the end, I hooked up the DAC to an audio consulting transformer, bypassing the output stage. I thought it sounded better than with the modified output stage. If you do something like this, you can ignore any changes to +/-12VDC, it is no longer used, and don’t need to worry about changes on the output stage.
In the output stage of the DAC card, you can do the following:
C321, C322, C371 and C372 were 220/16V Elna’s, changed to 470/16V Blackgates. I added .022 polystyrene bypass caps, but not really sure if the bypass caps did anything or not. I was in a styrene bypass kind of mode at this time, and I was bypassing everything with the NOS styrenes I got surplus.
These caps filter +/- 12VDC for the first output stage (the 50KHZ one) for the front two channels.
If you listen with the 50KHZ filter setting:
Remove relay L602. Jumper from pins 4 to 5, and from 8 to 9 (two end pins) after removing. This takes a relay out of the signal path, and permanently connects the 50KHZ signal to the output.
NOTE: You really should use the 50KHZ setting if you can, if you use the 40KHZ setting, the signal goes through two output stages, where it only goes through one if you use the 50KHZ.
On the DAC cards, around the DACs:
Changed CD43 and CD41, they are 100/10 elna’s. I installed 270uf/16 OSCON’s, pn 16SP270. I added another 270/16 oscon across pins 7/8 and ground, which puts it in parallel with CD41. I also added another oscon under CD43, on the bottom side of the board. Also put in a .022 polystyrene bypass on CD43 and CD41.
I also lifted pins 12 and 13 on QD51 (middle DAC for L/R side channels), and jumpered to pins 12 and 13 on QD41. This makes QD51(middle 4397) output the main L/R channels also, instead of the side channels. I was going to play with parallel DACs someday. I jumpered the pins with twisted pair wires, and grounded one wire, using the other wire for signal.
On the DAC card, around the clock:
CD23 was 220/16 elna, changed to a 1000/16 blackgate
CD24 was a 47/16 elna, changed to a 270/16 oscon
CD01 was a 47/17 elna, changed to a 220/16 elna silmic
I also installed a G&D Transforms clock, which is supposed to have less then 5psec of jitter.
I think switching the clock, and changing the caps in the clock circuit had a very positive effect on the 1000. Even if you use the stock clock, changing the caps will improve the soundstage.
On the switching power supply
Changed C105 from 150/400V to 150/350V Blackgate VK
Changed C203, C206, were changed to blackgates.
C217, C215, C205 and C208 were changed to Oscons. If I had to do again, I would only use Oscons for digital stuff, as this is supposed to be their strength.
On the linear power supply,
I put in Jensen 4 pole, 10,000 uf caps on the +/-12VDC after the rectifier and before the regulator. I also put in freds for all diodes. Was thinking about other changes here, like cap upgrades and regulator upgrades, but never got to it.
That’s what I remember.
Hope this helps someone out there.
Randy
Problems
Hi Randy,
I had a quick look at the page you referred to and I must say I find it highly discomforting! Such an expensive product and so many fundamental problems.
The G&D transforms clock is interesting as I mailed these guys several times in an effort to buy one. Never got a reply and finally made my own clock.
Is there only one clock in this model?. The Philips 963A has three clocks running.
Hi Randy,
I had a quick look at the page you referred to and I must say I find it highly discomforting! Such an expensive product and so many fundamental problems.
The G&D transforms clock is interesting as I mailed these guys several times in an effort to buy one. Never got a reply and finally made my own clock.
Is there only one clock in this model?. The Philips 963A has three clocks running.
Re: Problems
Elso
That should be 4......
Guido
Elso Kwak said:Hi Randy,
I had a quick look at the page you referred to and I must say I find it highly discomforting! Such an expensive product and so many fundamental problems.
The G&D transforms clock is interesting as I mailed these guys several times in an effort to buy one. Never got a reply and finally made my own clock.
Is there only one clock in this model?. The Philips 963A has three clocks running.
Elso
That should be 4......
Guido
Re: Problems
Hi Elso,
Yeah, for a $2000 player (when it came out), it has a few problems. It was a first generation SACD player, so I guess Philips still had to work out the kinks. From what I have heard, the 963 is much more reliable, they fixed these problems in it.
The good news (if you are in the US), is that the repair facility in Tampa seems to have figured out how to fix them, and is now fixing many broken 1000's under warranty.
I bought the GD clock from a third party, on sale. I heard they are not really pushing their clock anymore, not even sure if they still make it. I did like the superclock better, but it was not a huge difference. I am trying to put my superclock into my SA14 now, but I have to change the clock frequency. I bought a new crystal, but it did not work right in the superclock, and since I don't have a superclock schematic, it's kind of hard to figure out why.
I was thinking about buying your clock, but I would have to send cash, which did not appeal to me. I don't know about anybody else, but I would have payed a little extra to be able to paypal you the money.
The 1000 only has the one clock, that matters. There may be one in the display processor, but since it doesn't effect the sound, I ignored it. One of the other clocks in the 963 is for upsampling, which the 1000 does not do. I am not sure about the third clock.
Randy
Elso Kwak said:Hi Randy,
I had a quick look at the page you referred to and I must say I find it highly discomforting! Such an expensive product and so many fundamental problems.
The G&D transforms clock is interesting as I mailed these guys several times in an effort to buy one. Never got a reply and finally made my own clock.
Is there only one clock in this model?. The Philips 963A has three clocks running.
Hi Elso,
Yeah, for a $2000 player (when it came out), it has a few problems. It was a first generation SACD player, so I guess Philips still had to work out the kinks. From what I have heard, the 963 is much more reliable, they fixed these problems in it.
The good news (if you are in the US), is that the repair facility in Tampa seems to have figured out how to fix them, and is now fixing many broken 1000's under warranty.
I bought the GD clock from a third party, on sale. I heard they are not really pushing their clock anymore, not even sure if they still make it. I did like the superclock better, but it was not a huge difference. I am trying to put my superclock into my SA14 now, but I have to change the clock frequency. I bought a new crystal, but it did not work right in the superclock, and since I don't have a superclock schematic, it's kind of hard to figure out why.
I was thinking about buying your clock, but I would have to send cash, which did not appeal to me. I don't know about anybody else, but I would have payed a little extra to be able to paypal you the money.
The 1000 only has the one clock, that matters. There may be one in the display processor, but since it doesn't effect the sound, I ignored it. One of the other clocks in the 963 is for upsampling, which the 1000 does not do. I am not sure about the third clock.
Randy
I am upgrading the caps in the SACD 1000 of a friend.
For the DAC-card I have bought a bunch of Blackgate N 6.3 Volt 220 uF caps.
I know that these are sufficient as analogue output caps (max 2.0 Volt on these) but I wonder whether they will have sufficient voltage range for some other places.
I wanted to use them on C371 and C 372, on C161 and C162, and on C611 and C612 (and on the equivalents of the other channels).
Since I do not have a scheme of the SACD 1000, can anyone (Randy?) comment on these caps? I saw that there were only 16 Volt caps used on these places...
So, can I use these 6.3 Volt caps on these places?
Any help much appreciated!
Regards,
Lucas
For the DAC-card I have bought a bunch of Blackgate N 6.3 Volt 220 uF caps.
I know that these are sufficient as analogue output caps (max 2.0 Volt on these) but I wonder whether they will have sufficient voltage range for some other places.
I wanted to use them on C371 and C 372, on C161 and C162, and on C611 and C612 (and on the equivalents of the other channels).
Since I do not have a scheme of the SACD 1000, can anyone (Randy?) comment on these caps? I saw that there were only 16 Volt caps used on these places...
So, can I use these 6.3 Volt caps on these places?
Any help much appreciated!
Regards,
Lucas
Attachments
By the way, this is the mod done by van Medevoort to the SACD 1000 output section.
With the 963 they use 0.33 uF MKT and tiny silver-mica caps.
With the 1000 they use 0.33 uF MKT and 69n8 polypropyleen caps. At the last caps before the output, they exchange the standardly fitted Elna Cerafine caps for cheap standard Nichicon caps
(Also see the picture in the previous post)
Strange it seems!
With the 963 they use 0.33 uF MKT and tiny silver-mica caps.
With the 1000 they use 0.33 uF MKT and 69n8 polypropyleen caps. At the last caps before the output, they exchange the standardly fitted Elna Cerafine caps for cheap standard Nichicon caps
(Also see the picture in the previous post)
Strange it seems!
Attachments
My sacd1000 has just stared to fail ! I runs sacd for 4 mins and all of a sudden i gets quiet and I hear some vierd spinning and strange behavior in speed of the drive.
next day it is possible to get it to play for a few minutes again, then it fails again.
DVD does not work at all !
a sad day
any idees except those from the Alp page ?
/
SACD1000
Hi guys,
Hola Guido, Did you receive the email that I sent you about my problems with the SACD1000 ?
I have one SACD1000 but it does not working well for about 6 mothns
ago becouse it not reading the DVD and the SACD disc.
The only read the CD with problems I suposse that the problem is the
pick up, but I´don know where I can buy it.
I have the all schematics of the sacd excep the part of the MC2 loader
sacd 2434 that it incluide the Furore, STI5505 etc....
The Data shets of Furore:coming soon
The data shets of U7503 STI5505: comming soon
The data sheets of U7207 SAA7399 I did not found
The data sheets of U7103 BA5938 I did not found etc,etc...
My problem is that I don´t know how I can repair it becouse I dont
find the components for replace it.
Thanks.
Jesús
Can I hepl me?
Hi guys,
Hola Guido, Did you receive the email that I sent you about my problems with the SACD1000 ?
I have one SACD1000 but it does not working well for about 6 mothns
ago becouse it not reading the DVD and the SACD disc.
The only read the CD with problems I suposse that the problem is the
pick up, but I´don know where I can buy it.
I have the all schematics of the sacd excep the part of the MC2 loader
sacd 2434 that it incluide the Furore, STI5505 etc....
The Data shets of Furore:coming soon
The data shets of U7503 STI5505: comming soon
The data sheets of U7207 SAA7399 I did not found
The data sheets of U7103 BA5938 I did not found etc,etc...
My problem is that I don´t know how I can repair it becouse I dont
find the components for replace it.
Thanks.
Jesús
Can I hepl me?
PHILIPS SACD1000 Malfunctioning
Hello TNT and Jesús,
I am sorry to hear about your SCAD1000 malfunctioning.
On AA I have read this model has various child deseases. Philips is aware of these problems and can repair and update your unit free of charge if still in warrenty. So better not modify it before it is repaired. I won't even dare to touch the laserunit and associated electronics.
Sad to know that another expensive model the Sony SCD-1 of a friend of mine had similar problems.
Hello TNT and Jesús,
I am sorry to hear about your SCAD1000 malfunctioning.
On AA I have read this model has various child deseases. Philips is aware of these problems and can repair and update your unit free of charge if still in warrenty. So better not modify it before it is repaired. I won't even dare to touch the laserunit and associated electronics.
Sad to know that another expensive model the Sony SCD-1 of a friend of mine had similar problems.
Shocking Thread
Hi,
See fore example this shocking thread:
http://db.audioasylum.com/cgi/m.mpl?forum=hirez&n=128091&highlight=sacd1000+problem&r=&session=
Hi,
See fore example this shocking thread:
http://db.audioasylum.com/cgi/m.mpl?forum=hirez&n=128091&highlight=sacd1000+problem&r=&session=
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