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Old 31st December 2011, 02:00 AM   #111
erin is offline erin  Australia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Torchwood421 View Post
It really sounds better?
Ahh, another good question. I initially tried the inverter method(ec designs), (again on non oversampling) and convinced myself that it sounded better, it certainly was a "tighter" sound across the frequency range. However, upon comparing to my friends dac which is exactly the same, but just had a 560pf cap across p16/17. I was quite shocked to find that my dac just did not sound as good his. My dac sounded sterile, and un-dynamic. Basically on his dac, with the cap (regular TDA datasheet DEM circuit) the music flowed really nicely, was dynamic and vibrant, you know, the way a TDA should sound, that sort of sound that people like about the TDA1541. So I ended up putting a cap back in on mine.

Later my friend wanted to try the Grundig method of reclocking so I installed the Grundig method on his dac, when we listened, at the time, we both agreed that the Grundig method allowed the same dynamic, flowing, musical sound as a cap across 16/17, but did give more detail and cleanliness to the sound.

I have since applied the Grundig method to my DAC.

Actually I am not really convinced that DEM re-clocking is the be-all and end-all. Its more of a change of sound, than a 100% improvement. It is a cleaner sound. But, some of that vibrant bold TDA sound can be lost.
Some may appreciate the cleaner top end and tighter cleaner bass that DEM re-clocking provides, but some may miss the pleasant "je ne sais quoi" that comes with the original cap across pins 16/17. I think it's up to the individual to decide.

For anyone else wondering if they should try Dem re-clocking, I'd advise not to loose any sleep over it.

Please allow me to finish with one more comment, if you want a cleaner sound, there is only so far you can go with a TDA1541.
If you want to get the same analog sort of sound with nice midrange, such as with a TDA1541, just cleaner, try one of the many mono Burr brown R2R Dacs, you may just find that they provide the sound that you are after.

Last edited by erin; 31st December 2011 at 02:14 AM.
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Old 31st December 2011, 02:05 AM   #112
Mayday is offline Mayday  Sweden
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I haven't tried the re-clocking, just put a 122pF 1% silver mica between pin16 & pin17.
I found that to be a big improvement. My TDA1541A is still OS btw.
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Old 31st December 2011, 02:15 AM   #113
erin is offline erin  Australia
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Silver mica is the best cap for that location.
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Old 31st December 2011, 04:50 PM   #114
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Hi Erin and Mayday, Thanks for the comments. I am using 470pF polystyrene cap at 16/17. I think I'll just give a smaller value silver mica a shot. Yes, I do like the 1541A sound. Image depth may not be as deep sounding as some it's just one of the most musical sounding parts around. I'll try something in the 100 to 250 pF range. Thanks again, Dave
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Old 31st December 2011, 05:23 PM   #115
Mayday is offline Mayday  Sweden
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These are the values that result in a lock(taken from UV101's PDF)
EDIT: the cap really should be 1% tolerance.

Quote:
Here are some capacitor values that result in a "lock" condition, capacitance might vary slightly due to
TDA1541A tolerances:
235.2 KHz, 350pF
256.58181 KHz, 318pF
282.24 KHz, 300pF
313.6 KHz, 260pF
352.8 KHz, 250pF
403.2 KHz, 203pF
470.4 KHz, 180pF
564.48 KHz, 145pF
705.6 KHz, 122pF

Here's one if you have trouble finding them.
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Last edited by Mayday; 31st December 2011 at 05:33 PM.
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Old 1st January 2012, 12:51 PM   #116
Mayday is offline Mayday  Sweden
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Found these too.
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Old 1st January 2012, 02:08 PM   #117
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Hi Mayday, Happy New Year. Wow those are sure big caps. I found some SMT PPS caps at Mouser. I'd probably have to buy a few and measure them. I do have access to a measuring device. I downloaded UV101's paper on reclocking. A wealth of knowledge there. Like you I'm on a budget and buy parts over time. Nothing wrong with that. The schematic you posted is a good place to start on your tube output stage. If you use a resistor for I/V make sure to pick the absolute best you can find. That is the most critical one. Low inductance is key. Save up if you have to! This week after I do a few chores for my aged Father I will dig into that Magnavox player. The smell is something "Hot". So not to hard to find I hope. If I get the bug I may look at clock buffers and figure out if I want to try slaving the CDB650 (as a transport) to clock on the outboard Analogmetric DAC. If nothing else an interesting experiment. Dave
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Old 1st January 2012, 06:06 PM   #118
Mayday is offline Mayday  Sweden
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That's a good idea to measure them, the friend I bought mine from sent me the best ones out of 20pcs of 1% silver micas, so I guess mine are < 1%. He works at an audio manufacturer so he has very good equipment at hand.
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Last edited by Mayday; 1st January 2012 at 06:31 PM.
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Old 1st January 2012, 06:07 PM   #119
Mayday is offline Mayday  Sweden
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Btw, things are gonna move slow now...got a fever and I'm coughing up my lungs.
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Old 9th October 2012, 12:32 AM   #120
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Default Ferite bead and op amp power supply

two mods that I have made.

one replace r17 and c34 with a ferrite bead (muRata)

two install 10uf/50v Panasonic FC from opamp power pins to analog earth to improved power supply decoupling.
Both mods improved sound a bit in my opinion.
Has anyone else tryed these?
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