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Old 23rd December 2011, 02:56 PM   #91
ninogui is offline ninogui  Portugal
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Join Date: Dec 2011
Hello people this is my first post

Found this post very enlightening and in fact I think oppo company should hire some of you, at least Cory for sure as most surely this r&d would benefit from your findings as well as us the end customers

I will be getting a 95EU soon. My main concern will be fan noise / trigger.

Incidentally I thought of the fan controller even before I found this post as I have one of those to control my computer psu, made by thermaltake

Will not be doing (not knowledge on electronics at that level) or hiring big mods at first, but being an IT person used to build my own computers I would like to just replace the heat sink (no one would use a plate with thermal stickers on top of a cpu that is a fact) with the setup you conceived Cory

From a photo back up I see you raised the plate to accommodate the larger finned (makes sense) heat sink so I´d like to ask you this if you please (thks in advance for the great concept):

- which heat sink is it, any brand ref / model, which cpu is it for ?

- did you use thermal compound or thermal self adhesive stickers ?

- are you pushing it in using the plate as pressure point and some threaded metal headers ?

- how are you able to pressure in the heat sink center ?

- how did you get those threaded headers or where from ?

- a parts list would be most helpful !

- Do you have any idea where is located on the board the temp sensor that triggers the fan ?

- For the fan speed/voltage regulator what did you have to bypass to not trigger the temp sensor, if any ?

Dont know about the quality of the stock fan but maybe will also try to find a higher grade ball bearing fan or higher flow/lower speed one, what do you think ?

sorry for all the questions and thks in advance for you help


best rgds

Nuno from Portugal
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Old 23rd December 2011, 03:32 PM   #92
ninogui is offline ninogui  Portugal
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Maybe I made a mistake, I see now you where able to up the plate because you do not have the top board anymore.. but still hope to improve the heat sink anyway..
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Old 25th December 2011, 07:13 PM   #93
Coris is offline Coris  Norway
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Hi

Yes, the fan is to be a quite big concern... It had also an well audible noise for my ears, from that original Oppo`s fan... Is just not possible to enjoy the music with that running... The original one is not running all the time, but when is running is to be heard..
First action to get rid of the fan noise is to cut that cover in front of it (as to be seen in the picture). The cover in front of that fan generate much turbulence in to the air flow, and then generate the noise... Cutting it that out will help much to lower the noise of that fan.
The temp sensor for that fan is inside the main CPU... Here is something stupid from the Oppo`s designers part. They chosen to run hot that CPU to make it easy to trigger that fan to run it... So, that fan run only when the CPU`s temp is to high. This is very often... And this fan do not help very much at all to cool that CPU.... This make that it is a quite high temp inside the BDP95 box. If you will install that heat sink on the CPU first, you will notice that the fan do not run any more... This is bad too! It have to be ventilation inside that box....
So, that fan it have to run all the time, but in that way to not be audible.
To make it running all the time, just disconnected from its connector, and coupled it to a dedicated power supply. I used an very small (but enough power) consumer PSU (which is to be coupled in to the wall). Removed its plastic box and installed that small transformer (it have to be that type PSU with transformer, not a switching one!) inside the Oppo`s switching PSU (as to be seen here in the picture). Is enough an such 6vDC PSU for that fan. Is better to use also in between an "fan silencer" from the computer world. In this way just set the speed of that fan so to be efficient at the lowest (disturbing) noise. As is to be seen in another picture, I have now a second fan coupled in parallel with that original one, through the same silencer, to ensure the air flow over the CPU heat sink. In this way, the ventilation is very effective inside the box. The fan for the CPU heat sink is set to an lower working tension than another one, only for assure a movement of the air inside the box, over the CPU heat sink. I`ve used also so called low noise fans for both (not ball bearing ones). Quite easy to find those as computer spare components.

When about CPU heat sink, I used an P4 processor one. I think is possible to use another type so long is good for that place/space. You know? Those Oppos`s designers intended in the beginning to use an such heat sink for that CPU. The board is designed to this! There is good place inside for using a such heat sink over that CPU. This heat sink have to be "adjusted" a little bit to not come "in conflict" with the flat cable/connector beside... Is not difficult to cut it as in the pictures. One have to find a spring which is accordingly to the purpose. I used one from an old computer CPU cooler system. Make a hole, a little bit bigger (0,5 - 1mm) than the spring diameter in to that heat sink. Just in the centre of it. Is to be noticed here that the presure of the heat sink on the main CPU do not have to be very high. Not to low either... It is difficult for me now to say how much... Just enough I`ve used that spacers (pictures) to assure the right distance for the (original) plate, to have the right pressure over the heat sink when the screws are screwed in completely and the spring compressed (a little bit). Note that the screw through the original plate (which will hold in place the spring and the whole system) have to be right in the centrer of that plate. You can see in the pictures how to find that centrer... In this way the whole system is placed right in to the centrer of that CPU surface.
One have to take in to consideration that the heat sink keep its position quite good when whole the air in between it self and the CPU is out (when pressed). Yes, is to be used cooling compound here. Just use that compound only before final mounting. Note that is quite difficult to take out the heat sink after it was pressed in to the CPU chip, and is not any air in between... I think one can understand quite well what about from those pictures.
VERY IMPORTANT: connect your self to the ground in one (good) way to avoid ESD problems with the components inside the player, when is to tear it down. Care match about this aspect!
This modification (and another) void the warranty of your player!
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Last edited by Coris; 25th December 2011 at 07:26 PM.
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Old 26th December 2011, 08:40 AM   #94
ninogui is offline ninogui  Portugal
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thank you Cory!

That is really a masters work!

Again as I said being a PC tech I totally understand the flawed heat dissipation design on the Oppo, and that is more serious in the 95! If you take care of the cpu heat alone then the sensor will not trigger the fan anymore

My guess is the rotel power supply dos get warm too, right ? I suppose it has to, these electronics are made up to work in an ideal temp which is warm of course

Could you comment just a bit more on the last posted photo with a drawn arrow, is that an additional heat sink fo the ac/dc stage area, or the condenser close to it? does it get warm ?

best rgds
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Old 26th December 2011, 12:29 PM   #95
Coris is offline Coris  Norway
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ninogui View Post
thank you Cory!

That is really a masters work!

Again as I said being a PC tech I totally understand the flawed heat dissipation design on the Oppo, and that is more serious in the 95! If you take care of the cpu heat alone then the sensor will not trigger the fan anymore

My guess is the rotel power supply dos get warm too, right ? I suppose it has to, these electronics are made up to work in an ideal temp which is warm of course

Could you comment just a bit more on the last posted photo with a drawn arrow, is that an additional heat sink fo the ac/dc stage area, or the condenser close to it? does it get warm ?

best rgds
The analogue PSU dedicated to the audio board of the player get warm. Is normal that the components with heat sink do it so. The abnormal thing here is that get warm the capacitors involved in this PSU. This is bad and is about design faults. Or the Rotel transformer is not well dimensioned to deliver the necessary power... Or, anyway... I just removed that power supply and the famous Rotel transformer. I have my own designed PSU with an R type trafo for the audio board. It work much better than original one. It`s work normal I mean...

The last photo shows (the red arrow) where is the PSU/transformer (as described in previous post) for the fans. That`s all. There is coupled the speed controller for the fans. Is no any warm problem in this switching PSU. Here is only to be changed out some capacitors to have a quite big impact in video/image stage of the player.

Last edited by Coris; 26th December 2011 at 12:32 PM.
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Old 26th December 2011, 04:51 PM   #96
ninogui is offline ninogui  Portugal
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ok great work Cory. I think you could consult for Oppo so they have better designs in the future. If it is for the benefit of everyone why not ? why don´t you write them to show your findings ?

best rgds
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Old 29th December 2011, 03:59 PM   #97
Coris is offline Coris  Norway
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ninogui View Post
ok great work Cory. I think you could consult for Oppo so they have better designs in the future. If it is for the benefit of everyone why not ? why don´t you write them to show your findings ?

best rgds
You know? I did actually... They react enough arrogant. They are big, they know best... Anyway... They said that there are so many good reviews out there about this "exceptional" product...that is hardly to talk about conceptual faults....
I think they will not admit even in private eventual (design) faults.

In fact it is a good enough player, which is working well enough. In my opinion, with the same (production) price, and almost the same hardware, it could be much, much better. Both in picture and sound. Many people knows already this!
They are enough many (even companies) which tweak this player. Why? They are so stupid people this tweakers? No (at least a part of them...)! They know much better than Oppo him self about the big potential of this "collection of hardware/components and software" named BDP95. A good product, with very high performances is not possible to be tweaked for even higher quality... Is not the case of BDP95...
Is classical now this example about the main clock in BDP95. So many changed out the stock clock the player come with from the factory, and suddenly one got an huge increasing in picture and even sound quality. Is not necessary to use very sophisticated clock oscillators to get a better result. I`ve used an conventional oscillator, a little better quality than the stock used in BDP95 (and a little more care for its power supply). Was enough to have a much better picture, and better sound. Why Oppo do not do it this? Mystery... They prefer to invest for have good reviews...
Another example is this famous Rotel transformer. Every review mention that this player has inside this named component. It become a legend now that if an product have inside a Rotel component then is automatic a high end product. FAULT!
This Rotel transformer inside BDP95 has nothing special and is a very standard one. Its contribution to the player performance is minimal and (more) its stated performance is just cancelled by the very bead design of the serial PSU which it is coupled to. What for have a good quality transformer (a Rotel one...) if the following PSU work under big ripple currents, and generate noises/heat because this?
The examples are many... But anyway...
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Old 30th December 2011, 06:38 PM   #98
ninogui is offline ninogui  Portugal
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going back to cory´s posts in august I researched a bit more on the buffalo dac and on page 38 of the integration guide 121 it says
"
Shunt power supply
The Placid and Placid HD series of power supplies are shunt regulators. This means the power supply
delivers more power (refered to as CSS current) than is required at any time. The excess power supplied
is shunted (shunt current) and usually transformed into heat. As one might understand this is not the most
efficient use of power, but it does offer a very clear advantage: the output of shunt regulators usually has
extremely low amounts of noise. This makes it a favorite choice for audio applications.
"

should I take this is the case with the base default bdp-95 or its power path is a noisy one ?
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Old 30th December 2011, 10:04 PM   #99
Coris is offline Coris  Norway
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Join Date: May 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ninogui View Post
going back to cory´s posts in august I researched a bit more on the buffalo dac and on page 38 of the integration guide 121 it says
"
Shunt power supply
The Placid and Placid HD series of power supplies are shunt regulators. This means the power supply
delivers more power (refered to as CSS current) than is required at any time. The excess power supplied
is shunted (shunt current) and usually transformed into heat. As one might understand this is not the most
efficient use of power, but it does offer a very clear advantage: the output of shunt regulators usually has
extremely low amounts of noise. This makes it a favorite choice for audio applications.
"

should I take this is the case with the base default bdp-95 or its power path is a noisy one ?
Actually I`ve tried a such shunt PSU in my BDP95. Is not a good solution!
An shunt regulator is a better (noise point of view) power supply, but is not practical to be used when is about quite high current consumer. It just get to hot and it need special care to take out that heat... All become much complicated and quite big. In a case of a Buffalo kit is something else. In this case of BDP95 is no way to use a such regulator. I know, I`ve tried...
The best here is a quite simple and efficient serial regulator PSU. One do not have the best quality power, but is good enough and the best solution in this particular case. I`ve used 3 such PSUs: +/-15v and an +9v one for the analogue board power needs of this player. I wanted to use an accordingly power transformer for those 3 PSUs. The Rotel one could only deliver 2x18vAC. I`ve replaced with an transformer which can deliver 2x15vAC and 9vAC. One may chose a good balance between AC delivered from the transformer, and the final needed/regulated DC to minimise the heat dissipation inside the box. I`m very satisfied with my last solution to power the player... As is to be seen in one picture here, I use a quite big heat sink which do a very good job now inside my BDP95. Heat dissipation is very low.

Last edited by Coris; 30th December 2011 at 10:06 PM.
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Old 31st December 2011, 08:48 PM   #100
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My experience has told me that regulator types, unless outright faulty design, don't have any effect on the sound if you've done a properly generous job of installing post regulator filtering/energy storage. Experience also tells me that virtually ALL manufacturers NEVER have adequte post reg capacity, and very few diy/modders go far enough, thus different regs change sound.
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