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Old 19th January 2011, 04:56 PM   #1
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Default Marantz CD-75 SE Mk2

Dear All,

I have recently purchased a rather poorly Marantz CD-75 SE Mk2 cd player.

For the first half hour or so after turning the player on it will not read discs, or if it does finally read a disc it then displays "ERROR" on the front display panel and fails to play.

However, strangely after what appears to be a 'warm up' period (half hour or greater) the player appears to come to life and actually reads and then plays the disc; this continues so long as the player is left powered up.

Has anybody come across this issue/problem before and have any idea(s) as to what may be causing the fault.

Thanking you all in advance.

Regards, Richard.
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Old 19th January 2011, 09:59 PM   #2
amc184 is offline amc184  New Zealand
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Based on your description I would suspect one of two things:

- The player has a bad solder joint in the servo section that is being effected by heat so that it functions well when the player is warm, but not when it's cold.
- The player has faulty components in the servo section and will only function when the laser is warm and at its peak strength. That's not to say the laser is faulty, it's more likely that the servo that drives it and reads from it is.

If you're serious about getting the player going the first move I would suggest is to replace all of the electrolytic capacitors on the mainboard. They may be causing the problem with the player, but even if they're not now, they will in the future. If that doesn't fix the problem, it's time to look at more complex troubleshooting ideas.

I've got the service manual for this player, PM me your email address if you want me to send it to you.
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Old 20th January 2011, 08:57 AM   #3
poynton is offline poynton  United Kingdom
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First off, replace the electrlytic caps on the board under the CDM1 mechanicm. Like for Like Do not be tempted to increase the value.

Then change the Power supply electrolytic caps.

But as with all modifications, only change one thing at a time or you may end up in a worse mess than now.

Andy


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Old 20th January 2011, 10:25 AM   #4
amc184 is offline amc184  New Zealand
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Andy, good idea, but this is a CDM-1 Mk2 player, so essentially a CDM-4. It is a monoboard type, with the servo, decoder, controller and DAC on the one PCB, with a second PCB for the user interface.

Richard, I've emailed the service manual to you. When taking the player apart, make sure you do it in a static safe way. In particular, do not put the mainboard down anywhere apart from on a static safe mat, handle the mainboard by the edges (avoiding touching the components where possible) and short the contacts of the laser mechanism's ribbon cable as soon as you unplug it. The easiest was to do this is to paper clip a piece of tinfoil over the end of the ribbon. These precautions are important, ignore them and you are likely to damage the player.

As for taking it apart, I'm not familiar with this exact player (though I have serviced many that are similar), but the normal order is:
- remove the top cover
- remove the front panel
- slide the disc tray out
- remove the disc clamp
- unplug and remove the laser mechanism (remember static safety)
- remove the loader mechanism (the frame that supports the laser mechanism)
- remove the mainboard, noting that it may be held in by screws accessed from the underside and back of the player as well as the obvious ones (remember static safety)

That should cover it, if you run into any problems, post it here, preferably with photos, and I'll give you more detailed guidance. Also, who are you planning to get the replacement electrolytic capacitors from? If you let me know I will be able to help you to buy the best capacitors for the job.
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Old 20th January 2011, 11:37 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by amc184 View Post
Andy, good idea, but this is a CDM-1 Mk2 player, so essentially a CDM-4. It is a monoboard type, with the servo, decoder, controller and DAC on the one PCB, with a second PCB for the user interface.

Richard, I've emailed the service manual to you. When taking the player apart, make sure you do it in a static safe way. In particular, do not put the mainboard down anywhere apart from on a static safe mat, handle the mainboard by the edges (avoiding touching the components where possible) and short the contacts of the laser mechanism's ribbon cable as soon as you unplug it. The easiest was to do this is to paper clip a piece of tinfoil over the end of the ribbon. These precautions are important, ignore them and you are likely to damage the player.

As for taking it apart, I'm not familiar with this exact player (though I have serviced many that are similar), but the normal order is:
- remove the top cover
- remove the front panel
- slide the disc tray out
- remove the disc clamp
- unplug and remove the laser mechanism (remember static safety)
- remove the loader mechanism (the frame that supports the laser mechanism)
- remove the mainboard, noting that it may be held in by screws accessed from the underside and back of the player as well as the obvious ones (remember static safety)

That should cover it, if you run into any problems, post it here, preferably with photos, and I'll give you more detailed guidance. Also, who are you planning to get the replacement electrolytic capacitors from? If you let me know I will be able to help you to buy the best capacitors for the job.
Many thanks for your help and guidance on this one, will keep you updated, regards Richard
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Old 20th January 2011, 04:30 PM   #6
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The problem, I am quite sure, will be the fault of one or more of the translucent-blue-jacketed axial electrolytics, as Poynton said, primarily in the area right under the mech, in the servo section. These Philips/Siemens/etc. lytics ALWAYS cause problems in any Philips-based deck more than 15 years old, as do the often used Panasonic/Matsushita caps. Any Nichicon caps can be counted on the be perfectly fine, so don't waste your time unless upgrading to larger/better Nichicons(in/on supply lines and places where uf value is not critically specific).
The CD75 is a really nice machine, well worth any fix/upgrade effort.
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Old 21st January 2011, 08:44 AM   #7
UV101 is offline UV101  England
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See here........

CDM1 Cap pic

As Andy says, these are fussy here so make sure you use low esr same value caps
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Old 21st January 2011, 09:24 AM   #8
amc184 is offline amc184  New Zealand
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Again, I've got to stress that this player uses a CDM-1 Mk2, which is actually a CDM-4 variant. It does not have any servo PCBs attached to the laser mechanism, only the same brushless motor PCB used on other brushless CDM-4 variants (such as the CDM-4/11, CDM-4/36, CDM-4/53 etc).

I've posted the exploded view for a very similar player, the CD65 Mk2, which only differs in that it uses a slightly different loader mechanism (because it uses a CDM-4/19, not a CDM-1 Mk2). Some vital statistics for the CD 75 Mk2 for those interested:

- Laser mechanism: CDM-1 Mk2
- Servo chipset: TDA5708 / TDA5709
- Decoder: SAA7210
- Digital filter: SAA7220
- DAC: TDA1541
- Microcontrollers: MAB8441 / MC68HC05

As a footnote, I don't agree with the prevailing opinion that the Philips made axial electrolytic capacitors are significantly worse than those made by other manufacturers. They just happen to be used in a very critical application (directly filtering the drive to the laser diode) where loss of performance results in the failure of the player. The other electrolytic capacitors in the player can be just as bad, but will only cause a loss in performance, not total failure. Interestingly, the other capacitor that often fails in these players, the 1.5uF bipolar electrolytic that filters the radial motor drive, is a Nichicon. I replace these with a 1uF film, problem solved forever!
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File Type: jpg Marantz CD65 Mk2 CDP exploded.jpg (164.3 KB, 299 views)
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Old 21st January 2011, 09:35 AM   #9
UV101 is offline UV101  England
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Quote:
Originally Posted by amc184 View Post
As a footnote, I don't agree with the prevailing opinion that the Philips made axial electrolytic capacitors are significantly worse than those made by other manufacturers. They just happen to be used in a very critical application (directly filtering the drive to the laser diode) where loss of performance results in the failure of the player. The other electrolytic capacitors in the player can be just as bad, but will only cause a loss in performance, not total failure. Interestingly, the other capacitor that often fails in these players, the 1.5uF bipolar electrolytic that filters the radial motor drive, is a Nichicon. I replace these with a 1uF film, problem solved forever!
I think the point is not that they are rubbish, its that they are in a sensitive area and that they are 20+ years old and as such, known to cause disk read errors...................
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Old 21st January 2011, 11:23 AM   #10
UV101 is offline UV101  England
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TDA5708 Pin17, Single 33uF blue philips axial cap? Its on the laser supply feed.

Same type as you get on the CDM1 mki mechs. Again known to give problems after this much time. Again try Oscon 33uF
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