Marantz CD-75 SE Mk2

[rwaters2]

Dear All,

I have recently purchased a rather poorly Marantz CD-75 SE Mk2 cd player.

For the first half hour or so after turning the player on it will not read discs, or if it does finally read a disc it then displays "ERROR" on the front display panel and fails to play.

However, strangely after what appears to be a 'warm up' period (half hour or greater) the player appears to come to life and actually reads and then plays the disc; this continues so long as the player is left powered up.

Has anybody come across this issue/problem before and have any idea(s) as to what may be causing the fault.

Thanking you all in advance.

Regards, Richard.

 

[amc184]

Based on your description I would suspect one of two things:

- The player has a bad solder joint in the servo section that is being effected by heat so that it functions well when the player is warm, but not when it's cold.
- The player has faulty components in the servo section and will only function when the laser is warm and at its peak strength. That's not to say the laser is faulty, it's more likely that the servo that drives it and reads from it is.

If you're serious about getting the player going the first move I would suggest is to replace all of the electrolytic capacitors on the mainboard. They may be causing the problem with the player, but even if they're not now, they will in the future. If that doesn't fix the problem, it's time to look at more complex troubleshooting ideas.

I've got the service manual for this player, PM me your email address if you want me to send it to you.

 

[poynton]

First off, replace the electrlytic caps on the board under the CDM1 mechanicm. Like for Like Do not be tempted to increase the value.

Then change the Power supply electrolytic caps.

But as with all modifications, only change one thing at a time or you may end up in a worse mess than now.

Andy


.

 

[amc184]

Andy, good idea, but this is a CDM-1 Mk2 player, so essentially a CDM-4. It is a monoboard type, with the servo, decoder, controller and DAC on the one PCB, with a second PCB for the user interface.

Richard, I've emailed the service manual to you. When taking the player apart, make sure you do it in a static safe way. In particular, do not put the mainboard down anywhere apart from on a static safe mat, handle the mainboard by the edges (avoiding touching the components where possible) and short the contacts of the laser mechanism's ribbon cable as soon as you unplug it. The easiest was to do this is to paper clip a piece of tinfoil over the end of the ribbon. These precautions are important, ignore them and you are likely to damage the player.

As for taking it apart, I'm not familiar with this exact player (though I have serviced many that are similar), but the normal order is:
- remove the top cover
- remove the front panel
- slide the disc tray out
- remove the disc clamp
- unplug and remove the laser mechanism (remember static safety)
- remove the loader mechanism (the frame that supports the laser mechanism)
- remove the mainboard, noting that it may be held in by screws accessed from the underside and back of the player as well as the obvious ones (remember static safety)

That should cover it, if you run into any problems, post it here, preferably with photos, and I'll give you more detailed guidance. Also, who are you planning to get the replacement electrolytic capacitors from? If you let me know I will be able to help you to buy the best capacitors for the job.

 

[rwaters2]

Andy, good idea, but this is a CDM-1 Mk2 player, so essentially a CDM-4. It is a monoboard type, with the servo, decoder, controller and DAC on the one PCB, with a second PCB for the user interface.

Richard, I've emailed the service manual to you. When taking the player apart, make sure you do it in a static safe way. In particular, do not put the mainboard down anywhere apart from on a static safe mat, handle the mainboard by the edges (avoiding touching the components where possible) and short the contacts of the laser mechanism's ribbon cable as soon as you unplug it. The easiest was to do this is to paper clip a piece of tinfoil over the end of the ribbon. These precautions are important, ignore them and you are likely to damage the player.

As for taking it apart, I'm not familiar with this exact player (though I have serviced many that are similar), but the normal order is:
- remove the top cover
- remove the front panel
- slide the disc tray out
- remove the disc clamp
- unplug and remove the laser mechanism (remember static safety)
- remove the loader mechanism (the frame that supports the laser mechanism)
- remove the mainboard, noting that it may be held in by screws accessed from the underside and back of the player as well as the obvious ones (remember static safety)

That should cover it, if you run into any problems, post it here, preferably with photos, and I'll give you more detailed guidance. Also, who are you planning to get the replacement electrolytic capacitors from? If you let me know I will be able to help you to buy the best capacitors for the job.

Many thanks for your help and guidance on this one, will keep you updated, regards Richard

 

[stephensank]

The problem, I am quite sure, will be the fault of one or more of the translucent-blue-jacketed axial electrolytics, as Poynton said, primarily in the area right under the mech, in the servo section. These Philips/Siemens/etc. lytics ALWAYS cause problems in any Philips-based deck more than 15 years old, as do the often used Panasonic/Matsushita caps. Any Nichicon caps can be counted on the be perfectly fine, so don't waste your time unless upgrading to larger/better Nichicons(in/on supply lines and places where uf value is not critically specific).
The CD75 is a really nice machine, well worth any fix/upgrade effort.

 

[UV101]

See here........

CDM1 Cap pic

As Andy says, these are fussy here so make sure you use low esr same value caps

 

[amc184]

Again, I've got to stress that this player uses a CDM-1 Mk2, which is actually a CDM-4 variant. It does not have any servo PCBs attached to the laser mechanism, only the same brushless motor PCB used on other brushless CDM-4 variants (such as the CDM-4/11, CDM-4/36, CDM-4/53 etc).

I've posted the exploded view for a very similar player, the CD65 Mk2, which only differs in that it uses a slightly different loader mechanism (because it uses a CDM-4/19, not a CDM-1 Mk2). Some vital statistics for the CD 75 Mk2 for those interested:

- Laser mechanism: CDM-1 Mk2
- Servo chipset: TDA5708 / TDA5709
- Decoder: SAA7210
- Digital filter: SAA7220
- DAC: TDA1541
- Microcontrollers: MAB8441 / MC68HC05

As a footnote, I don't agree with the prevailing opinion that the Philips made axial electrolytic capacitors are significantly worse than those made by other manufacturers. They just happen to be used in a very critical application (directly filtering the drive to the laser diode) where loss of performance results in the failure of the player. The other electrolytic capacitors in the player can be just as bad, but will only cause a loss in performance, not total failure. Interestingly, the other capacitor that often fails in these players, the 1.5uF bipolar electrolytic that filters the radial motor drive, is a Nichicon. I replace these with a 1uF film, problem solved forever!

 

[UV101]

As a footnote, I don't agree with the prevailing opinion that the Philips made axial electrolytic capacitors are significantly worse than those made by other manufacturers. They just happen to be used in a very critical application (directly filtering the drive to the laser diode) where loss of performance results in the failure of the player. The other electrolytic capacitors in the player can be just as bad, but will only cause a loss in performance, not total failure. Interestingly, the other capacitor that often fails in these players, the 1.5uF bipolar electrolytic that filters the radial motor drive, is a Nichicon. I replace these with a 1uF film, problem solved forever!

I think the point is not that they are rubbish, its that they are in a sensitive area and that they are 20+ years old and as such, known to cause disk read errors...................

 

[UV101]

TDA5708 Pin17, Single 33uF blue philips axial cap? Its on the laser supply feed.

Same type as you get on the CDM1 mki mechs. Again known to give problems after this much time. Again try Oscon 33uF

 

[stevew7280]

TDA5708 Pin17, Single 33uF blue philips axial cap? Its on the laser supply feed.

Same type as you get on the CDM1 mki mechs. Again known to give problems after this much time. Again try Oscon 33uF

Hello,
Thanks for your help and guidance so far to try resovle this problem on Richards player.
I am Richards brother and have fired up my soldering iron to have a go at fixing this classic bit of kit. I have changed out the two Philips 47uF axial electrolytic caps beneath the transport and also the two 47uf electrolytic Panasonic/Matishuta caps below the servo chip with some new 47uF 50V Nippon chemicons I had to hand. I also found and resoldered numerous cold/dry joints across the main board. The player now sounds a good deal better but the reluntance to read and play a disc when cold remains. It now performs correctly more quickly than before however, and is now consistent after 5-10 mins rather than half an hour or more as before.
I plan to swap out the two 220uf Panasonics that are used to filter the focus drive next - will keep you posted. Regards, Steve Waters

 

[stevew7280]

Again, I've got to stress that this player uses a CDM-1 Mk2, which is actually a CDM-4 variant. It does not have any servo PCBs attached to the laser mechanism, only the same brushless motor PCB used on other brushless CDM-4 variants (such as the CDM-4/11, CDM-4/36, CDM-4/53 etc).

I've posted the exploded view for a very similar player, the CD65 Mk2, which only differs in that it uses a slightly different loader mechanism (because it uses a CDM-4/19, not a CDM-1 Mk2). Some vital statistics for the CD 75 Mk2 for those interested:

- Laser mechanism: CDM-1 Mk2
- Servo chipset: TDA5708 / TDA5709
- Decoder: SAA7210
- Digital filter: SAA7220
- DAC: TDA1541
- Microcontrollers: MAB8441 / MC68HC05

As a footnote, I don't agree with the prevailing opinion that the Philips made axial electrolytic capacitors are significantly worse than those made by other manufacturers. They just happen to be used in a very critical application (directly filtering the drive to the laser diode) where loss of performance results in the failure of the player. The other electrolytic capacitors in the player can be just as bad, but will only cause a loss in performance, not total failure. Interestingly, the other capacitor that often fails in these players, the 1.5uF bipolar electrolytic that filters the radial motor drive, is a Nichicon. I replace these with a 1uF film, problem solved forever!

Hi,
Could you guide me to where this cap is on the board please - I have the circuit diagram and can see the radial drive but no 1.5uf cap ??? Thanks, Steve(Richards bro)

 

[UV101]

Hi, heat related problems can often be traced using freezer spray.

ELECTROLUBE|FRE200|FREEZER, 200ML | Farnell United Kingdom

We used to use it all the time when I was servicing TV's. Get it warm and working and cool individual components 1 at a time to see if you can narrow it down.

Also, just for piece of mind, if you're ordering freezer spray, get some oscons with identical values. I've seen posts somewhere (can't remember where) saying that the player is very fussy and that "normal" caps can cause problems. The fact that you still have a temperature dependant fault suggests you are ok but I would just rule it out completely.

Looking at the philips CD782 Service manual (which should be pretty much identical) I cant see any BP caps in the radial circuit???

Good luck!!!

 

[amc184]

A few clarifications to my earlier comments:

I think the point is not that they are rubbish, its that they are in a sensitive area and that they are 20+ years old and as such, known to cause disk read errors.

I agree with you, this comment was more aimed at people who specifically blame this brand of capacitors.

TDA5708 Pin17, Single 33uF blue philips axial cap? Its on the laser supply feed.

Same type as you get on the CDM1 mki mechs. Again known to give problems after this much time. Again try Oscon 33uF

On this player it is actually 47uF, not 33uF. I wouldn't recommend a Sanyo OSCON, a general purpose capacitor from a manufacturer of good repute will do (Nippon Chemicon is fine). If anything, use a long life capacitor here, but as I said, a general purpose one will do.

Steve, it sounds like your on the right track. Before trying anything else I would suggest you finish replacing all of the electrolytic capacitors. There's a good chance it will perform fine after that. The 1.5uF bipolar electrolytic is only present in some cases, if you can't see it, don't worry, they will have fitted a film instead (which won't need replacing).

 

[tonyptony]

On this player it is actually 47uF, not 33uF. I wouldn't recommend a Sanyo OSCON, a general purpose capacitor from a manufacturer of good repute will do (Nippon Chemicon is fine). If anything, use a long life capacitor here, but as I said, a general purpose one will do.

Hi. I was reading through some threads and this caught my eye. May I ask why you would not recommend OSCONs for this purpose? Would Panasonic FMs be a good choice?

 

[poynton]

OSCONs have a really low ESR.
They are not always the best choice for every circuit...eg NEVER immediately after a regulator.

In any case, it is usually better to replace like with like.

The caps in the CDM board seem particularly sensitive to change.


Andy


.

 

[tonyptony]

OSCONs have a really low ESR.
They are not always the best choice for every circuit...eg NEVER immediately after a regulator.

In any case, it is usually better to replace like with like.

The caps in the CDM board seem particularly sensitive to change.


Andy


.

Andy, I'm told the original servo caps were Nichicon VXs. They were replaced with Panny FMs. Should I have just had VXs put in their place? What would be the perceived change with the FMs?

 

[tiefbassuebertr]

OSCONs have a really low ESR.
They are not always the best choice for every circuit...eg NEVER immediately after a regulator.
In any case, it is usually better to replace like with like.
The caps in the CDM board seem particularly sensitive to change...Andy
.

What? In this application we have the serial regulator for the APC Circuit.
Where are the disadvantage by the use of an OSCON from Sanyo at this place (PIN17 TDA8808/5708)?
check out in this case also the off-topic posts #34 until #38 by the URL
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/digi...pping-disc-reading-problem-4.html#post3511649

 

[hawkstone]

Update if possible please

Dear All,

I have recently purchased a rather poorly Marantz CD-75 SE Mk2 cd player.

For the first half hour or so after turning the player on it will not read discs, or if it does finally read a disc it then displays "ERROR" on the front display panel and fails to play.

However, strangely after what appears to be a 'warm up' period (half hour or greater) the player appears to come to life and actually reads and then plays the disc; this continues so long as the player is left powered up.

Has anybody come across this issue/problem before and have any idea(s) as to what may be causing the fault.

Thanking you all in advance.

Regards, Richard.

I have recently joined this forum and have happened upon this post which is very applicable as my own Marantz CD 75 SE MK 11 has started to have the same issues, has anyone please got any further information to assist in repairing this excellent cd player which I have owned from new.

 

[amc184]

Hi hawkstone, the first thing would be just to read through the thread. What test equipment and tools do you have? Are you able to do the kinds of things already suggested in the thread?